First welds
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Thread: First welds

  1. #1

    First welds

    Got my welder running and tried my first welds. What do you guys think? Both were DC+

    The first picture is 6011. I had some trouble with this one. It started very easily, but it was very splattery and I seemed to just burn the metal instead of making a pool. Also there wasn't much slag to come off? I ran the amps between like 70-100 trying different numbers.

    The second picture is 7018. This one started a lot harder until I upped the amps to like 140. I seemed to be able to pool it up better. And there was an actual slag to chip off, although it didn't come off easily.

    I also have 6013 but haven't tried it. Amp selection is kind of weird on my century welder since you just like squeeze this lever to move it up and down, I don't actually know what value I'm at.

    The steel I was using was just random flat bar from home depot.

    I might have to move my welder outside in the backyard because I didn't like the haze in my garage after, even with the fan on.


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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Bilbao, Spain
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    Re: First welds

    Congratulations on your first beads!

    Now, some tips:

    - Clean your metal well. Use a flap disc or hard rock untill you get all the way down to shiny metal. Don't weld over mill scale. Same applies to the ground clamp attachment.
    - Which welder are you using? Some inverters don't like cell rods, so unless you have a 6011 capable inverter, you will have a hard time keeping those rods lit.
    - For starters, try to run stringers. With 7018 you up the amps untill they don't stick when you hold a tight arc and then... hold a tight arc. Actually 7018 is called on ocasiones drag rod, because you pretty much can let it rest on the flux and just dragg it on the plate. Keep it almost vertical and don't manipulate the electrode.
    - Start padding beads on a piece of plate. If you use thin stock, dunk it often in water to cool it off. If you have a hard time running straight lines, draw some chalk marks on the metal.
    - Check the polarity of the rods, I don't remember if 7010 is DC+ or DC- or both.

    What kind of helmet are you using? If it is a cheapo autodarkening helmet, chances are you are not seeing anything. Get a fixed shade (cheap, nice to have as spare) and you will be able to see the puddle. Otherwise you are just guessing. I faced that situation not long ago.

    And well... hood time!

  3. #3

    Re: First welds

    Okay I'll start cleaning the metal better. I thought 6011 was supposed to be better about the metal being dirty with mill scale? I'm using an old Century AC/DC Buzzbox: Name:  4588-arc-welder-1.jpg
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    What's a stringer?

    I'm using the $50 HF helmet. I have another one non-autodarkening, so I'll give that one a shot. Also my HF has controls, hard to play with them though because I'm left handed and they're on the left side of my helmet which is the same side I'm holding my rod.

  4. #4

    Re: First welds

    dbl post

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Re: First welds

    Your holding too long of an arc length which is common for beginners. If I were you I would focus on drag rods first. I prefer 7014 for beginners. You can literally drag the rod right on your metal to be welded. The benefit of this is it teaches you to push your hand in closer to the plate as you weld, without having to try to judge arc length. Also it lets you focus on learning how to manipulate the rod (arc starts, rod angle, speed of progression) and how to watch the puddle (instead of the arc), BEFORE you have to worry about judging arc length. 6011 is a very easy rod to use once you have those basics mastered, but it is not a drag rod, and you have to be able to maintain a pretty tight arc to get good results. DC electrode positive is good for almost every common welding rod. Its all I use pretty much.
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Re: First welds

    Quote Originally Posted by bgilb View Post
    Okay I'll start cleaning the metal better. I thought 6011 was supposed to be better about the metal being dirty with mill scale?
    They are more tolerant, but it doesn't mean they like it or that you wouldn't benefit from having pristine metal. There is no rod out there that benefits from dirty, rusty or coated metal. Clean it! And also, clean the contact point for the ground clamp.

    Quote Originally Posted by bgilb View Post
    What's a stringer?
    A stringer is the result of a weld made with no side to side (or very little) rod manipulation. The oposite would be a WAVE. Stringers put less total heat imput in the weldment, therefore less likely to warp the piece you are welding.


    Quote Originally Posted by bgilb View Post
    I'm using the $50 HF helmet. I have another one non-autodarkening, so I'll give that one a shot. Also my HF has controls, hard to play with them though because I'm left handed and they're on the left side of my helmet which is the same side I'm holding my rod.
    No need to manipulate the helmet controls WHILE welding! Do it before, check if it is clear enough and adjust from there.

    Mikel

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
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    Re: First welds

    Quote Originally Posted by Mikel_24 View Post
    They are more tolerant, but it doesn't mean they like it or that you wouldn't benefit from having pristine metal. There is no rod out there that benefits from dirty, rusty or coated metal. Clean it! And also, clean the contact point for the ground clamp.


    A stringer is the result of a weld made with no side to side (or very little) rod manipulation. The oposite would be a WAVE. Stringers put less total heat imput in the weldment, therefore less likely to warp the piece you are welding.




    No need to manipulate the helmet controls WHILE welding! Do it before, check if it is clear enough and adjust from there.

    Mikel
    "Weave" not

    jrw159

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Re: First welds

    Quote Originally Posted by jrw159 View Post
    "Weave" not

    jrw159
    Inverse technology????
    Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR"
    MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX3ea,Dynasty200DX,Th ermalArc400GTSW,LincolnSW2002ea., MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200withspoolgun,MKCobra Mig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig3ea.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Re: First welds

    Quote Originally Posted by Mikel_24 View Post
    They are more tolerant, but it doesn't mean they like it or that you wouldn't benefit from having pristine metal. There is no rod out there that benefits from dirty, rusty or coated metal. Clean it! And also, clean the contact point for the ground clamp.


    A stringer is the result of a weld made with no side to side (or very little) rod manipulation. The oposite would be a WAVE. Stringers put less total heat imput in the weldment, therefore less likely to warp the piece you are welding.




    No need to manipulate the helmet controls WHILE welding! Do it before, check if it is clear enough and adjust from there.

    Mikel
    What'z a wash weld?
    Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR"
    MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX3ea,Dynasty200DX,Th ermalArc400GTSW,LincolnSW2002ea., MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200withspoolgun,MKCobra Mig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig3ea.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    Colorado
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    750

    Re: First welds

    Quote Originally Posted by shovelon View Post
    Inverse technology????


    jrw159

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