Plasma Cutter Wiring Question

[Cadfael]

Apologize if this has been answered. Have run a few searches but couldn't find the answer.
Bought a Biltek Cut50D plasma cutter. It came hooked up with 110v plug. In the process of converting to 220v. The instructions say to change the plug to a 220v plug. But the cord does not look capable of running 220. The first question is should I go ahead and replace the entire cord?

Second question is that when looking at the 110 plug it came with, it looks like its hooked up wrong. Its got the chinese color markings. Green/yellow stripe (ground), then it has a brown and blue wire. The brown is hooked to the silver screw and the blue is hooked to the brass screw. Pictures follow.







When connecting to a 220 plug is the blue the hot? After some looking have found some information that the brown should be hot. I'm confused and need some help.

Really appreciate any help and thanks

[Virgil5]

First & MOST important, verify the wire you think is ground is in fact connected to the ground or chassi of the machine.

After that connect blue and brown as the manufacturer says.

[Cadfael]

Have taken case off and confirmed that yellow/green stripe is attached to the machine, not the switch. The instructions with the machine just says to change the plug to 220 plug for 220 use. It doesn't say anything else about the wiring.
Appreciate the response.

[Willie B]

I'm not familiar with your machine. Lots of electronic machines these days sense the input voltage, and select the configuration. My plasma is 230 volt only, but I've used inverter welders that run three phase or single. They adjust to a wide variety of voltages. Each leg of AC utility power contributes to a DC buss, then the machine takes from that buss what it needs to power.

Check your manual!!!!! If you are lucky, it is printed in a language you understand.

[Country Metals]

That is a standard hook up for 110v. You have 1 hot 1 neutral 1 ground. When you convert that to 220v both the blue and brown become hots. 110v each leg. If you get a 220v plug, you will see that both screws are gold color which identifies as a hot line screw.

Make sure your machine is really OK to handle 220v.

Also, it may be important to hook up 110 the same exact way or you may blow up your machine when you change it back to 110. So keep your pictures for later reference.

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

[Cadfael]

Thanks for the replies. Appreciate the help.

[mad welder 4]

Why wouldn't the cord be able to handle 240v power?

[jpump5]

Why wouldn't the cord be able to handle 240v power?

Good point.
The machine should draw less at 240 volts than
at 120.


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[Cadfael]

The cord on this thing just looked really small. I’m no electrician, and it concerned me that putting on a 220 plug on to this cord wouldn’t work.

Glad you guys chimed in, really appreciate the reply’s.

[Virgil5]

Why wouldn't the cord be able to handle 240v power?

Soybean insulation instead of fish scale insulation.
Fish scales are good to 332 volts, soybeans, not so much.

THE DEVIL MADE ME DO IT.

[mad welder 4]

The cord is probably rated for 300v.

[Willie B]

Cord voltage is about insulation. There isn't much thermoplastic around that won't handle 600 volts to ground. The small size is usually about heat. If a cord won't heat past its temperature rating, with a 20% duty cycle. This is when cords get small. Much cord insulation is rated at 105 or 115 Degrees Celsius. 100 degrees Celsius is boiling water. You can pass a lot of electrons through even #14 copper before it gets that hot.

I believe heating copper very hot causes it to oxidize. Oxidation happens most aggressively where exposed to oxygen. Most cable I'm aware of is well protected from oxidation, except at the ends where it connects to something else. There, on the surfaces where conductivity is most essential, is where oxidation happens an the most rapid rate. That thin layer of oxidized copper must conduct electrons to a different conductor. Oxidized copper is a poor conductor. Electrons flowing over it generate heat.

If concerned about quality of machines you buy, read the nameplate. If peak amperage is 15 amps, I'd like to see a #14 cord. 20 amps, #12, 30 Amps #10........

There are loopholes manufacturers can use. The cords fitting my minimums will be in good condition after thousands of hours use. I believe a manufacturer building a quality machine will put on it a quality cord.

Yes a #14 cord is legal on a 30 amp machine. Is it dependable, I suggest you decide.

[Cadfael]

Informative posts gentlemen, Thank you. Willie B appreciate the sage advice.

The plasma cutter is operational and did the job needed done.

Thanks again for the help and information.

[Bluewelders]

I made a cheater cord (I know, I am a bad person) so that I could run mine off of 120 0r 240v.
The readout on mine seems to be just the knob position.
40 amps on the readout on 240v is 40 amps, 40 amps on the display on 120v seems to be 20 amps.