Gate post help
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Thread: Gate post help

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    22

    Gate post help

    Good evening all. I'm going to be setting posts for my driveway gate and need some help.

    The gate will be 16' that I'm planning on less than 500#. Built out of 3x3x0.25 for the hinge support 2x2x0.85 everywhere else.

    The soil is eastern fresno county heavy black clay that swells in the winter and gets 1" cracks in the summer.

    The post will be 6x6x0.25. I'm stuck on how deep the post should go. I'm thinking 30" hole 6'deep set in concrete. Would this work?

    Thank you for the help.
    1974 SA 200 Blackface current project
    Lincoln Ranger 10,000 plus
    Hobart Ironman 230
    Hobart TigMate
    Thermal Dynamics 40 amp plasma
    Assorted Victor Propane and Oxy/Acetylene torches

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Las Vegas, Nevada, USA
    Posts
    514

    Re: Gate post help

    Quote Originally Posted by FenceWelder View Post
    Built out of 3x3x0.25 for the hinge support 2x2x0.85 everywhere else.
    Something odd on that 0.85 gauge. That's nearly solid 2" bar stock.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    22

    Re: Gate post help

    Mistyped 0.085
    1974 SA 200 Blackface current project
    Lincoln Ranger 10,000 plus
    Hobart Ironman 230
    Hobart TigMate
    Thermal Dynamics 40 amp plasma
    Assorted Victor Propane and Oxy/Acetylene torches

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    300

    Re: Gate post help

    I use to be a member of NOMMA like 10 years ago when I was doing a lot of wrought iron railings. Gate posts was a huge topic on their forums.

    If your building a 16'long single leaf gate, that's a long load. It will need a much bigger support base. I would dig a big 4'x 4' hole 3' deep and put a 6" I beam in an X formation and bury it in a foot thick of concrete. This doesn't include your 6x6 30" deep either. The common thing everyone use to say was concrete was cheap insurance.

    A 30" deep sonotube will not be enough to hold up to opening and closing and people hanging on it possibly and snow and rain and soft soil and freeze heave etc...

    As a side note, you want the hinge tube the strongest, but the bottom tube takes all the horizontal load so it needs to be almost as strong as the hinge tube. 3x2 x 1/8 or 3/16 is a common bottom tube. Your design must also include some type of strap from the top of the hinge tube to the bottom corner of the opposite corner. It doesn't have to be an ugly bar but it needs the support of one.

    Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    B.C. Canada
    Posts
    2,693

    Re: Gate post help

    I had a situation where I needed the fence post right on the property line and part of the neighbor fence. That limited depth and size of concrete for anchor. What I decided to do was weld up sort of a spider below ground level. The post had a tube running out across the driveway a foot below ground and another running parallel to the fence line also a foot underground. Just like the gate cantilevered out into the air I had arms cantilevered out underground.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    22

    Re: Gate post help

    Thanks for the help. I think I am going to change my plan after doing more research and reading what you guys said.

    First I'm going to change this to biparting 10' gates. This will give me wider opening and less stress on each post.

    Additionally I am going to do a grade beam along with an overhead beam at 14' high. To support the gates in the open position I will add 5' outriggers parallel to the open position.

    My goal is with the dynamic nature of my clay soil that this thing never moves.

    Pretty cool website I found www.gateinfo.org

    Thanks for the help
    1974 SA 200 Blackface current project
    Lincoln Ranger 10,000 plus
    Hobart Ironman 230
    Hobart TigMate
    Thermal Dynamics 40 amp plasma
    Assorted Victor Propane and Oxy/Acetylene torches

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