Sealing a roll up door
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  1. #1
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    Nov 2009
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    Sealing a roll up door

    My new roll up door, like most, has a pretty big gap at the top when closed, I was looking at brush seal, anyone use it?
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  2. #2
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    Re: Sealing a roll up door

    Sounds like it is installed wrong. A properly installed garage door whether it be multi panel or roll up should not have any gaps.
    You need to get your installer out there to fix it!
    Oh wait, was the installer you?

  3. #3
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    Re: Sealing a roll up door

    This is what I used on mine for a finish seal.
    You can use it on the sides and across the top.

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Royal-Mould...rip/1000444111

  4. #4
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    Re: Sealing a roll up door

    Quote Originally Posted by rexcormack View Post
    Sounds like it is installed wrong. A properly installed garage door whether it be multi panel or roll up should not have any gaps.
    You need to get your installer out there to fix it!
    Oh wait, was the installer you?
    No it was not me, it was a professional door company. There is a sort of "curtain" up there that is supposed to seal somewhat but it is more or less useless. When I did some research I found it is very common to have a gap at the top and brush seal is the best way to seal it because whatever you use the door will drag over it with every cycle and a rubber seal will not hold up. I am not talking about a visible gap where the door is too short for the opening, it looks fine from the front. But when you look up at the header with your head against the closed door there is a gap between the header and the front of the door where air and birds etc can come in and over the top of the roll. The only way to seal it is with a brush seal on the front or a bulb seal that rolls up inside the door and comes to rest against the header when the door is unrolled, but they don't seem to exist in the US although they are all over in Australia.
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  5. #5
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    Re: Sealing a roll up door

    Quote Originally Posted by rexcormack View Post
    This is what I used on mine for a finish seal.
    You can use it on the sides and across the top.

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Royal-Mould...rip/1000444111
    Did you use that on a roll up? On the header or on the door itself? The sides of my door are well sealed it's just the top that isn't.
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  6. #6
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    Re: Sealing a roll up door

    You are correct, I did not use that on a roll up door.
    At work we have 2 large rollup doors that were installed by Overhead Door.
    Both are installed well above the opening so that the gap does not change as the diameter of the roll changes.
    In this case they have bulb seals.
    I've seen the installation you describe, usually where there is not enough overhead to make the installation correctly.
    Probably should have used a multipanel door.

  7. #7
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    Re: Sealing a roll up door

    Dang it, maybe it was brush seals! Now you have me second guessing myself!
    I won't be back at work till Monday!
    Now that is going to bug me all weekend!

  8. #8
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    Re: Sealing a roll up door

    Quote Originally Posted by rexcormack View Post
    Dang it, maybe it was brush seals! Now you have me second guessing myself!
    I won't be back at work till Monday!
    Now that is going to bug me all weekend!
    pics would be nice. My door is 20 X 11. Panel door wouldn't work in my installation as I need the full ceiling height inside.
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  9. #9
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    Re: Sealing a roll up door

    a caulking gun w/ soft stuff. i used to drive truck/haul grain, and had one motorcycle cop that really had it out for me. he knew my route, and would wait before the bumpy rr tracks for me, and when the slightest bit of granular stuff would fall out the crack of gate, he'd write me up for spilling. expensive fine/ and misdermeanor. so i used caulking on the two swing gates on the back of dump trailer to seal them up
    Last edited by 123weld; 03-14-2019 at 11:26 PM.

  10. #10
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    Re: Sealing a roll up door

    I've used these brush seals on man doors , dock doors, dock levelers, and conveyors to get a seal on moving irregular openings.

    https://www.mcmaster.com/7372t11

    I never looked a the topseal on our doors, now I'm gonna have to look. Its the bottom seals that usually get damaged, usually when the forks hit the bottom panel.

    hope it helps, good luck
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  11. #11
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    Re: Sealing a roll up door

    Bigb, I have several roll-up doors and as you stated, as the door rolls up or down the roll changes it's size. I live with it, but the brush idea sounds about the best to me. The drawback would be the constant rubbing of the brush on the outer surface leaving marks from wear and as the direction of the door changes, so would the brush. Think of it as with a paint brush, as the direction changes right to left and with not raising the brush when the direction changes, the bristles would have a hard time changing direction. This brush would have to have quite long bristles. Just thinking. Bob

  12. #12
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    Re: Sealing a roll up door

    The above brushes are available in 2",3", and 6" deep, lengths are 3ft,and 6ft I think. Available in nylon, polyester, and Horse hair. If its a really dirty area, you might notice brush marks. It hasn't been a problem where I work, and its great for keeping bugs out at night. If the inside is lit at night, the bugs will be attracted to it. Our compressor room would be invaded at night by bugs coming in through the gap. Some of those moths are huge !

    good luck
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  13. #13
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    Re: Sealing a roll up door

    There is a standard brush and a "weatherblock" brush that has rubber flaps inside it for more protection. I talked to a guy on the Garage Journal forum who has has his brush seal for a few years now with no paint or marking issues on his door.
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  14. #14
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    Re: Sealing a roll up door

    My gap varies from 4" when rolled up to 6" when rolled down. I was going to add a 2X4 to the header which will reduce the gap to 2.5" and 4.5" respectively. My thought was to use a 3" retainer and a 3" brush, however after reading Bob's post about the brush having to change direction I am thinking a longer brush mounted to a shorter retainer may work better when it has to flip the other way. Instead of adding a 2x4 I will use a retainer that sticks out 1/2" from the inside of the header with a 6" brush. That will make the brush 6.5" which is .25" to .50" longer than the gap which is approx 6" to 6.25" (as the door moves in and out slightly in the wind). So when the door is closed there will be .25" to .50" of extra brush pressing against it. When the door opens all the way there will be about 2" of extra brush pressing against it, or flipping up and the 6" total brush length should help it flex back the other way as the door closes and the gap increases back to 6". I think that is my best option.
    Last edited by bigb; 03-16-2019 at 10:46 PM.
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