F162 broken stud
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  1. #1
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    Oct 2010
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    F162 broken stud

    I got a f162 from my 58 longhood I'm working on . I have been tearing it down to clean it all up . I was in the process of removing the head and I got all the nuts off the head studs just fine but one for the thermostat housing snapped off . There is still an inch sticking up out of the head but no threads left on it . My question is do these come out ? Or am I screwed now ? I'm hopeing I can just heat it up and it will come out and I can put a new one in . Thanks

    Also what's the deal with the head studs ? Leave them as is or should they be carefully replaced with head bolts ? Any tricks to popping this head off ? I'm pretty sure I got everything undone holding it on and it seems glued on there pretty good and it doesnt seem like there are any good pry spots or spots to hit without damaging mating surfaces .

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  2. #2
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    Re: F162 broken stud

    Get after it with a wire wheel or brush. Weld a nut to the top of that busted stud and then put a heavy tack on opposite sides of the shaft below that. Get the socket for the nut and a good pair of vise grips for the tacked area. Use simultaneously while still hot.Just slightly back and forth until you feel some movement then twist it out.
    Got a big brass or lead hammer ? That head will take some "persuading". Not slamming hard. Just play drummer boy on it for 20 minutes or so. A little propane torch action cant hurt either. See what piston is at TDC and toss 120-150 lbs of air in that cyl if you have the hose and threaded piece. Napa might rig you one up. The pressure in a cyl or 2 will assist the head up and off while you drum. You'll hear the gasket blow.You can simply chase those threads on the head studs later on.

  3. #3
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    Apr 2011
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    minnesota
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    1,950

    Re: F162 broken stud

    Like bonzoo said weld a nut to the broken bolt. The studs would come out but you’d be opening another can of worms. Studs are preferred to bolts that’s why so many diesel guys redo their trucks. I am sure Duane will stop by this thread he the guy on these
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    If it dont fit get a bigger hammer

  4. #4
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    Nov 2012
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    ROCKVILLE ,,VA
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    Re: F162 broken stud

    Agree with welding nut above bonzoo and farmshop ,, me clean around stud before welding nut put high temp anti seize it suck into thread when welding nut on

  5. #5
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    Re: F162 broken stud

    The only thing I would suggest differently is use a larger nut (3/8", 7/16" or even 1/2" ID) down tight against the gasket surface so that the heat from welding it to the stud gets down into the threads. If the stud snaps off flush either weld another nut on or just use the T-stat housing as a drill guide to center drill the rest of the stud, drill out with the correct size tap drill and re-tap the threads.
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  6. #6
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    Re: F162 broken stud

    Ok thank you for the advice , I might be able to try it tommorow but if not I'm off wed Thursday and I will dig into it more then. How are these motors for longevity (anything known to wear out or problems I should address now?? I had a 64 sa200 but I just used it , and never tore into it . I wanted to at least take the head off to inspect the cylinders and valves and go from there. I figure at least lapping the valves and a new head gasket would be a good idea. Any other thoughts ? Thanks

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  7. #7
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    Re: F162 broken stud

    I got it , it came right out , I used one old machine with 6010 to repair another old machine . I do have to chase the threads on 1 head stud now as my ground touched it and arced some .

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  8. #8
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    Re: F162 broken stud

    I was a little nervous afterwards I got this weird clank clank clank noise , I was sweating bullets till I took my starter off and turning the engine over now its quiet as a church mouse , so I'm guessing my starter gear was sticking

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    Last edited by thinktwicez71; 05-12-2019 at 06:54 PM.
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  9. #9
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    Re: F162 broken stud

    Quote Originally Posted by thinktwicez71 View Post
    I got it , it came right out , I used one old machine with 6010 to repair another old machine . I do have to chase the threads on 1 head stud now as my ground touched it and arced some .
    And now you've experienced one of the most popular methods of extracting broken, rusted bolts/studs. Works the same on pipe plugs such as those in the cylinder head where one would install a gauge capillary tube bulb or sending unit and 1/8" or 1/4" pipe plugs for oil pressure gauge line/sender.

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  10. #10
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    Re: F162 broken stud

    Well I got the head off , took some persuasion for sure. I made a spark plug air tool like was recommended, I still had to work at it a lot even with that. Getting the head off the studs was a pain . Head looks good the water passages look like they got alot of crap in them , but the cylinders look excellent with no pitting. They do have a ridge around the top of them tho , consistent to all 4 of them . There is alot of carbon around the valves so I'm glad I took the head off so I can clean all that and lap them all . Any suggestions? Or anything I should do or look at while I'm this far into it ?

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  11. #11
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    Re: F162 broken stud

    As you can tell I used about a whole can of PB blaster over the course of a week

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  12. #12
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    Re: F162 broken stud

    MMMMMMMMMMMM Got a few extra pesos ? I'd get a cam and new valves but I don't know how many guys are left that understand valve clearance is done via seat grind and butt grinding the valve itself ?
    You're in NY. Look up Paul Gast( fast by Gast) If he's still on the expensive side of the grass get him to give you a hand.I haven't talked to him in 35 years. He'd be 65-70 by now.

    If not go after it with a wire wheel, cleaner and all and mark each valve with a perma mark. Tear it all down and clean it up good. Have a good look at the cam bearings and re-ring/lower bearing the thing.
    Don't stone hone.Just a light crosshatch. Use a fuzzy hone on it. When you re-assemble use a torque wrench on EVERY SINGLE BOLT. Oil pan too.Put a feeler ga. between the rod and the side of the crank when you torque the rod bolts.Most wanna-be's ignore that. Bolt torque is a 3 step process.15, then 25 or 30, then MAX as per the manual.
    Leave the powertools for the idiots who think they're mechanix on Utoobz.
    Make sure everything is eat off of it clean.A bedroom is a decent place to assemble an engine.

  13. #13
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    Re: F162 broken stud

    Quote Originally Posted by Bonzoo View Post
    MMMMMMMMMMMM Got a few extra pesos ? I'd get a cam and new valves but I don't know how many guys are left that understand valve clearance is done via seat grind and butt grinding the valve itself ?
    You're in NY. Look up Paul Gast( fast by Gast) If he's still on the expensive side of the grass get him to give you a hand.I haven't talked to him in 35 years. He'd be 65-70 by now.

    If not go after it with a wire wheel, cleaner and all and mark each valve with a perma mark. Tear it all down and clean it up good. Have a good look at the cam bearings and re-ring/lower bearing the thing.
    Don't stone hone.Just a light crosshatch. Use a fuzzy hone on it. When you re-assemble use a torque wrench on EVERY SINGLE BOLT. Oil pan too.Put a feeler ga. between the rod and the side of the crank when you torque the rod bolts.Most wanna-be's ignore that. Bolt torque is a 3 step process.15, then 25 or 30, then MAX as per the manual.
    Leave the powertools for the idiots who think they're mechanix on Utoobz.
    Make sure everything is eat off of it clean.A bedroom is a decent place to assemble an engine.
    Will do , I'm honesty debating getting an engine stand and going through the entire engine , because I want to check over the wiring on the generator portion anyways and replace the main bearing on that shaft . I'm not in a rush at all , this will just be a toy for me that I won't sell this one ( unlike my 64 )


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  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    353

    Re: F162 broken stud

    Was it burning oil.

    Mine is burning alot of oil.
    Thinking about tearing it down to re ring and bearing. But I use the the thing might have to wait till winter.

    Grind the valves to clearance??

  15. #15
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    Oct 2010
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    Up North , New York
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    Re: F162 broken stud

    I'm not sure if it burned oil or not honestly my buddy bought it in 2012 and he never really used it , the r57 idler was a mess but it ran . All 4 cylinders have a ridge at the top , is that normal or is that how worn the cylinders are even tho they all look great ?

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