Front Brakes 1994 F-150
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  1. #1
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    Dec 2018
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    Front Brakes 1994 F-150

    Last brake work on this thing was probably close to 18yrs ago.

    Pads are a bit worn.

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    And,, the rotor has seen better days

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    The reason I decided to open things up, was an occasional loud bang, and sudden jerk, when applying the brakes. A quick pre-teardown look, lead me to believe the brake pads are hanging up on the wear lip (I've also recently experienced stuck caliper). In addition, the left front wheel clicks when it turns (probably bearings)

    What sealed the deal for new hub/rotors...………………….outer bearing cup rotates inside the hub......it's shot. And probably the source of the clicking sound.

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    What has me really pizzed off, is the "new" style replacement brake pads. THEY CHAMFERED THE F'N EDGES Dood behind the counter says it's to help with squeal, and something about collecting dust. I"ve been putting brakes on these things for close to 50yrs...…………..pads used to just be pads......not all boogered up from the get-go So...………...ya got a smaller friction surface, meaning more force needs to be applied to stop the vehicle, and increased rotor wear cause of the small pad footpring. WHAT A BUNCH OF BS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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    Guess I'm behind the times (shrug). Might wanna replace brakes more than about every 2 decades. But...…….it's a tribute to my driving style....it's why I run old stuff past its prime, and it runs like new. Been a conservative driver all my life I guess.

    I have a sneaking feeling the bang might be unrelated, but it's what I'm goin' with right now. I don't notice any play in the front end, and the banging is intermittent.....usually after the truck's been rolling for a while without applying brakes. If the brakes are used a lot, the banging doesn't occur.

    I might look at the stabilizer strut (the one that goes from the I beam, back to the frame.....holds the axle from moving backwards), but it's not unusually loose. They're loose when new.

  2. #2
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    Dec 2018
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    Re: Front Brakes 1994 F-150

    THIS REMINDS ME OF THE LATHE



    I went to replace the bearing cups that came with the new hub/rotor. I don't trust no-name aftermarket crap. These will be replaced with National bearings. (Might be just as junky, but at least they gotta name on 'em)

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    The cup came out easy...….REAL EASY.

    Wonder why??????????????????????

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Size:  232.7 KB This is an un machined lip that prevents the cup from seating into the shoulder at the bottom of the bore. AND THIS IS FROM NAPA. Far as NAPA goes...…….I assume they just buy this sh)t, and put their sticker on it. I also had trouble getting a rear u-joint for this same truck from NAPA...…...3 of the 4 were defective out of the box.

    I'm thoroughly fed up with this import sh(t.

  3. #3
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    Dec 2018
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    Re: Front Brakes 1994 F-150

    And...……...your run-of-the-mill wrench jockey woulda just put the hubs on without worrying about replacing the new cups that came with it. Wanna bet that woulda been interesting when the customer drove a few miles.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
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    SE Pa
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    Re: Front Brakes 1994 F-150

    That’s like new, I’ve seen pads worn 1/2 way through back plate,rotors worn into center cooling fins.

  5. #5
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    Mar 2005
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    Re: Front Brakes 1994 F-150

    Good luck getting 18 years out of those new parts.

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    Bemidji MN
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    14,080

    Re: Front Brakes 1994 F-150

    That is a good catch on that defective machining job.

    I use to work on a lot of those trucks when I was turning wrenches, never saw that unusual defect.

    Never had a bad brand new ujoint either...parts must be getting worse and worse...

    Worst brake defect I found was for a Lincoln. Rotor set had the center hole just slightly too small. It prevented the rotor from seating all the way.

    It looked seated until I was torquing the lug nuts. The torque wrench was feeling "soft" and had give when it should have been clicking.

    Took me a while to figure out why...

    If I had used those air impact torque sticks I may not have noticed the problem at all
    Lug nuts would have loosened as they drove I'd bet...
    Last edited by MinnesotaDave; 06-11-2019 at 07:13 AM.
    Dave J.

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    Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.

  7. #7
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    Dec 2008
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    Lockhart,Tx (BBQ capitol of the world)
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    957

    Re: Front Brakes 1994 F-150

    You're right about driving style Sam!
    My 2000 F250 had 217,000 miles when I replaced the front pads and 235,000 when I replaced the rear pads.
    And yes I do haul with it!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
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    2,203

    Re: Front Brakes 1994 F-150

    Quote Originally Posted by John T View Post
    Good luck getting 18 years out of those new parts.

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    Thats the truth! I just put rear brakes on my chevy trailblazer for the 4th time. The originals lasted 50K I have 102K on it now and 3 more brake/rotor changes. This time I went to rock auto and ordered all Ac Delco parts. We will see if they last any better than what the shops have been puting on it. It seem the shoes still have about 50% left on them but the rotors keep glazing to the piont that the car does not want to stop anymore. One side the pad was wore out on one side of the rotor but not the other side. When I pulled it apart the caliper was not stuck nor was the bracket that lets the brakes center themselves so I have no idea why it wore out the one side.

    The rotors were about double the cost of the no names but there is no saving to be had when they only last 1/3 as long. FYI AcDelco has an economy line too so make sure to get the professional series. Rock auto has their parts very organized as to cheap to best. They are also about the only place I could get OEM rotors and pads. All the parts stores around me do not carry them and can not even order them. I will not go to a dealer to get them.

    Just for info I checked on Brake parts for my Chrysler minivan. The MoPar shoes are very expensive but I think when the time comes I will go with them. I checked them friday when I rotated the tires and they all look like new with 50K on them. I will look at them again at 75K.
    Last edited by thegary; 06-11-2019 at 10:16 AM.

  9. #9
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    Dec 2018
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    1,137

    Re: Front Brakes 1994 F-150

    Hell, I dunno………..Ford guy here told me that for engine control parts (sensors etc), Motorcraft is good if you can find OLD Motorcraft stock. Any new Motorcraft numbers, according to him, are about the same as buying from any auto parts store. Third party manufactured.

  10. #10
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    Dec 2018
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    Re: Front Brakes 1994 F-150

    Anyways, for the guys that still own these old trucks, or just bought one...……..a quick primer.

    These trucks use, what I believe is called a floating caliper.

    Calipers are held on by two bolts accessible from the backside of the assembly

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    These bolts are removed, then the caliper is pried off of the brake pads, which remain on the vehicle on their slides.

    The hold down clips on the outer pad are pried up, to allow them to move out of the clip locating holes.

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    Gently tap the caliper rearwards to remove it. Afterwards, the pads can be removed from the slides.

    If the caliper is seized, it can be collapsed with a C clamp placed on the backside of the caliper, with the screw located on the outside brake pad. Tighten to collapse the piston.

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    Once the caliper is removed, it should be clamped to prevent the piston from extending. And, it should be kept out of the way without placing stress on the brake line. The piece of plate is also used to fully collapse the piston prior to re-installation.

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  11. #11
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    Dec 2018
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    Re: Front Brakes 1994 F-150

    If new bearings are to be installed in the hub. First remove the old cones, and grind them to slip fit back into the bore. This is your installation tool for the new cup.

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    Using spacers, and the ground cup, install the new cup. The ground cup will protect the new cup from damage.

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    Do not trust the hydraulic press. Check the cups by running your fingernail in the joint between the new cup, and the bottom of the bore. If the new cup isn't fully seated, you will feel a gap. Presses don't always do a perfect job. Take your ground cup, seat it on top of the new cup, and hit it with a hammer to insure that it's properly seated. The hammer should hit with a solid "ping" if the cup is seated properly. Don't whale away at it, just a reasonable blow.

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    Adjusting wheel bearings is crucial. Timken has excellent tutorials online. It isn't a good idea to preload a wheel bearing unless you have experience. It's more of an art than a science.

    Grease is your friend. Don't be cheap...…..put a healthy amount of grease in the cavity behind the cup, in addition to packing the bearing. Once installed, fill any visible void with grease.

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    Bearings are best adjusted with the wheel on. Temporarily snug fit the grease cap in the bore while handling the wheel, this prevents dirt from contaminating the grease.

    Most grease is simply oil suspended in soap, or other mediums. As it heats up, the oil is released from the grease. This is why you want as much grease as possible in the cavity, bearing, and grease cap (within reason). Also remember to coat the rear seal lip with grease before installing the hub, this prevents damage to the seal lip, and packs the cavity between lips with grease to help prevent water intrusion.

  12. #12
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    Dec 2018
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    Re: Front Brakes 1994 F-150

    Now as to the particulars of this particular job

    Looks like stuff got a little toasty on the passenger side

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    This is oxidization, and bluing, from running a seized caliper too long. I knew it was bad for about a week.

    A comparison between the two rotors.

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    The heat had gone as far as ruining the outer wheel bearing. You can see that the grease was actually cooking.

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    So It's a good thing I finally got around to taking a look at the brakes after all these years

    This caliper was replaced. BUT I'd not be surprised if the drivers side caliper either leaks, or binds...………..reusing old calipers can be a crap shoot. Just check them once in a while after a job like this, and don't be surprised if you wind up replacing them. Very often the pistons wear unevenly, or the seals get ruined when collapsing the piston...……...or just by cocking in the bore as the pads wear.

  13. #13
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    Dec 2009
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    Re: Front Brakes 1994 F-150

    Napa parts are junk. I quit using their stuff around 8 years ago.

    No one has 'great' parts anymore. Even oem rebuilt stuff has problems. We got a starter from ford some years ago, after installation the starter (relay) activated on its own while sitting in the driveway. Starter just cranking away with no one in the vehicle and no keys in the ignition. Nearly started on fire and burnt the truck to the ground.

    I very much dislike junk parts!
    12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.
    I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829

  14. #14
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    Jun 2017
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    AJO, ARIZONA
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    Re: Front Brakes 1994 F-150

    NAPA used to be the "standard", but the places like AUTOZONE AND CHECKER, ETC proved to be huge competition, NAPA ended up doing a "competitive line that is cheaper, but even their ECHLIN line of electrical and fuel system parts have suffered some quality loss, NAPA gold series filters are supplied by WIX, their NAPA brand oil is from ASHLAND refineries which is VALVOLINE.
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  15. #15
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    Dec 2018
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    Re: Front Brakes 1994 F-150

    So (VPT, AND CAVEMAN), it boils down to the almighty dollar, and competition. Sorta sad ain't it. Napa used to be the place you went, paid a little bit more, and got stuff that worked.

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