240V 50 Amp male to 240V 30 amp female adapter cord?

[samckitt]

Is there such a thing? Only thing I can find is 240V 50A male to 120V 30A female.

Thanks

[TJS]

Make one up.

[samckitt]

Yeah was thinking I am going to have to do that @ about double the price of premade adapter cables.

[Broccoli1]

which 30amp 240v receptacle do you need the adapter pigtail for?


is this a Dryer receptacle?

[samckitt]

Need something like this:
http://eli-ramirez.com/wp-content/up...ng-diagram.jpg

But this one goes from 240v to 120v.

[Broccoli1]

What plug is on your machine?
What receptacle is in the wall?

[samckitt]

On plasma cutter:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/3...gle-Y-plug.jpg


Wall:
https://22wmo83kfu4a2go2xhiedyzgkk-w..._906129669.jpg

[Broccoli1]

I would probably just change the plug on the plasma cutter to match the 14-50 in the wall.

Did it come with that 30amp plug on it from the manufacturer? Odd choice to use that style plug.

[Broccoli1]

You can make an adapter cable though but you wont find a molded 30amp connector.


You'll need a 14-50 Oven/Range power cord. Any box store will have them.



Will have the male 14-50 plug on it and bare wires on the other.

You'll then need a Dryer receptacle and a box to mount it in.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-B...-Dryer/3775475

use the Black, Red and Green wires. Cut back the white wire and tape it off.

[samckitt]

Oh good idea. The other end would probably use this.


The ground is rounded, not the 90* angle as in the other pic.

[Broccoli1]

Oh good idea. The other end would probably use this.
https://i.imgur.com/xp97RkJ.jpg

That is a TT-30 120v 30amp connector for Travel Trailers/RV. The ground prong is different.

[danielplace]

Oh good idea. The other end would probably use this.


The ground is rounded, not the 90* angle as in the other pic.

That is 120 volt. Hot, neutral and ground. For sure don't feed that with 240 volt.

[danielplace]

You just need that 50 amp 4 wire range tail and wire it to a surface mount 30 amp 3wire dryer outlet and your done. $25


Don't use the neutral off the tail from range plug. 2 hots and the ground to dryer outlet.

https://express.google.com/product/7...4Mtg&gclsrc=ds

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Whirlpoo...UEUA&gclsrc=ds

[samckitt]

That is 120 volt. Hot, neutral and ground. For sure don't feed that with 240 volt.

Ah ok.

[Oscar]

That is 120 volt. Hot, neutral and ground. For sure don't feed that with 240 volt.

If the connector is rated for 250V at the appropriate amperage amount, then there is no reason it can't be used for 240V service. An empty receptacle isn't H/N/G/anything until it is actually put into service. The wires going to it determine the prong identities. That picture is too small, even when zoomed-in I can't see the rating on the part itself. Now if it can't handle 240V @ (needed amperage), then it's a whole different story. But I do agree, that a surface mount outlet is ideal, but the dryer one won't work. He mentioned that his ground prong is rounded, not angled. So that Leviton receptacle won't work with the current plug on the welder "as-is". What I would do is chop off that connector at the welder and retrofit a 4-prong outlet, utilizing the X/Y/G prongs so that when inserted into the 4-prong 14-50R receptacle, it only gets the needed hot wires and ground. All it would cost is the cost of the connector, about $15.

[Broccoli1]

If the connector is rated for 250V at the appropriate amperage amount, then there is no reason it can't be used for 240V service. An empty receptacle isn't H/N/G/anything until it is actually put into service. The wires going to it determine the prong identities. That picture is too small, even when zoomed-in I can't see the rating on the part itself. Now if it can't handle 240V @ (needed amperage), then it's a whole different story. But I do agree, that a surface mount outlet is ideal, but the dryer one won't work. He mentioned that his ground prong is rounded, not angled. So that Leviton receptacle won't work with the current plug on the welder "as-is". What I would do is chop off that connector at the welder and retrofit a 4-prong outlet, utilizing the X/Y/G prongs so that when inserted into the 4-prong 14-50R receptacle, it only gets the needed hot wires and ground. All it would cost is the cost of the connector, about $15.

while you are correct that the connector does not care about the wiring, the device plugged into it certainly does care.

It is not wise to instruct someone to feed 240v to a 120v designated receptacle or connector. It can lead to smoke getting out of the machine.

[samckitt]

I was wrong, it has the 90* angle ground terminal. I'm just going to put the 50 amp male plug on the end of the plasma cutter.

[Broccoli1]

I was wrong, it has the 90* angle ground terminal. I'm just going to put the 50 amp male plug on the end of the plasma cutter.

Good choice.

[Oscar]

while you are correct that the connector does not care about the wiring, the device plugged into it certainly does care.

It is not wise to instruct someone to feed 240v to a 120v designated receptacle or connector. It can lead to smoke getting out of the machine.

Some connectors are rated for 125V/250V, as printed on the connector itself. It wasn't an instruction, because I used the word "If" (several times actually), making it a conditional statement.

[danielplace]

On plasma cutter:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/3...gle-Y-plug.jpg


Wall:
https://22wmo83kfu4a2go2xhiedyzgkk-w..._906129669.jpg

If the connector is rated for 250V at the appropriate amperage amount, then there is no reason it can't be used for 240V service. An empty receptacle isn't H/N/G/anything until it is actually put into service. The wires going to it determine the prong identities. That picture is too small, even when zoomed-in I can't see the rating on the part itself. Now if it can't handle 240V @ (needed amperage), then it's a whole different story. But I do agree, that a surface mount outlet is ideal, but the dryer one won't work. He mentioned that his ground prong is rounded, not angled. So that Leviton receptacle won't work with the current plug on the welder "as-is". What I would do is chop off that connector at the welder and retrofit a 4-prong outlet, utilizing the X/Y/G prongs so that when inserted into the 4-prong 14-50R receptacle, it only gets the needed hot wires and ground. All it would cost is the cost of the connector, about $15.

In post above he put a picture of what he has and it was a 30 amp 3 wire dryer plug. Didn't hear him say he had a round ground. ??? … might have missed it.

The yellow plug in question is clearly a 30 amp 125 volt female cord cap. Can you guess what the voltage rating would be ? Yah 125 volt. Pretty sure any TT-30R or TT-30P is going to be a 125 volt rated piece since it is a 125 volt prong configuration.

https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Rep...gateway&sr=8-5

FYI the Receptacle or Plug usually denote what the prongs SHOULD be but yes the wires determine what they are and since you can't always see the wires and/or where they go so you are so much better to do them how they were MEANT to be.

[danielplace]

Some connectors are rated for 125V/250V, as printed on the connector itself. It wasn't an instruction, because I used the word "If" (several times actually), making it a conditional statement.

125/250 just means it has two hots and neutral and your ground. 4 wire 125/250 volt.

Straight 250 volt rating is because there are 2 hots and a ground 3 wire. NO neutral so it isn't 125 volt /250 because without a neutral it isn't 120 volt.

Of course a few exceptions as to what will be on a given outlet as determined by the type of power in the building it may be 120/208 volt or just 208 if no neutral.

Same way when you step up to 277/480 stuff. 480 means only the 3 hots and a ground if it is 3 phase or 2 hots and ground if single phase. But 277/480 is going to
supply your neutral to get your 277 volt from also.

[danielplace]

I was wrong, it has the 90* angle ground terminal. I'm just going to put the 50 amp male plug on the end of the plasma cutter.

Just be sure to use the two hots and ground nothing on the neutral. If you buy a cord cap they are clam shell and the prongs are removable. Probably just leave the neutral prong out of the plug completely. It will plug/unplug a little easier with only the 3 in it.

[hobbywelder27]

Just be sure to use the two hots and ground nothing on the neutral. If you buy a cord cap they are clam shell and the prongs are removable. Probably just leave the neutral prong out of the plug completely. It will plug/unplug a little easier with only the 3 in it.

That plus with the 14-50 cord cap with no neutral installed, it will plug into 14-30, 14-50, and 14-60 receptacles, as all of them just have a different neutral design.

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