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Thread: Bandsaw blades

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2017
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    Bandsaw blades

    My bandsaw blades keep breaking at the weld and this makes me mad. The blades are Supercut brand and they don’t last anytime at all. They don’t have a chance to get dull before the weld breaks. I have adjusted the tension but that did not help.
    Do other people have this problem?
    I found a site called Detroit bandsaws that make custom length bandsaws in the USA. You select width then specify an exact length and then the TPI. I liked that because It was too hard to find a premade blade I wanted online because of all the variables. I assume they weld them there in Detroit once you specify the length.
    Does anyone use this company or a similar company for bandsaw?
    Does anybody reweld their broken blades or custom cut their blades from stock and weld them their self?


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  2. #2
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    Re: Bandsaw blades

    I have been using LA cutting Products. I have rewelded them many times. Some times they last until the blade is dull, sometimes they break again.

  3. #3
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    Re: Bandsaw blades

    I presume those supercut are 1/2" carbon steel. You will do better with bimetal at .025 thickness However check your saw set up too tight guides, metal movement and hitting metal too fast can cause damaged blade. Appropriate tooth count is important too. Listen to the blade as it runs.

  4. #4
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    Re: Bandsaw blades

    I have bought blades from
    www.bandsawbladeswarehouse.com and had good luck.
    You dont mention the type of saw, size blades or what you are regularly cutting so adding that info may help with recommendations on the type of blade that may be better or last longer.

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  5. #5
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    May 2017
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    Re: Bandsaw blades

    Thanks for the replies.
    I was using bimetal 6/10 TPI, 64.5 inch, 1/2 inch wide blades to cut 1 inch thick steel plate welded to 3/8 thick square tubing. I was cutting it to check my welds.
    If you reweld it, do you use TIG? What rod do you use and do you butt weld or lap weld?


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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    1,370

    Re: Bandsaw blades

    I do blades with O/A and silver solder. I have a jig to align the blade and grind a lap joint. Seldom have had a failure.
    ---Meltedmetal

  7. #7
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    Ohio
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    Re: Bandsaw blades

    I spent quite a while building a jig, researching the process, getting the correct silver content solder and correct flux for it, lapping the ends, learning the technique etc. and finally gave up. The results weren't acceptable at all. Much easier and better to just buy a new blade. I only did it so that I could keep working without having to wait for a new blade in case one broke in middle of a project. Much better to keep an extra on hand and reorder when it goes on the saw.

    I use Olson 64.5" 1/2 14/18 variable Bi Metal blades to cut with but don't do anything as thick as 1" which would need the TPI you use. My Olson's work great, no problems at all. I get mine on Amazon.
    Last edited by JD1; 08-21-2019 at 11:19 AM.

  8. #8
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    Re: Bandsaw blades

    I assume you are buying those at Harbor Freight? If so, bring them back for a refund.
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  9. #9
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    Ohio
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    Re: Bandsaw blades

    Supercut is a USA manufacturer. https://supercutbandsaw.com/about

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2017
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    344

    Re: Bandsaw blades

    Blades were bought from Northern Tool. Getting a refund is not my issue. Getting blades that won’t break is what I am after or being able to repair them. I like the idea of brazing them. What % silver should I use? Do I want ductility or strength?


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  11. #11
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    Jan 2015
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    Ohio
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    Re: Bandsaw blades

    Well, good luck with it. Here's my earlier thread and there's a bunch of stuff on YouTube.

    https://weldingweb.com/showthread.ph...bandsaw+blades

  12. #12
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    Sep 2016
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    Re: Bandsaw blades

    Quote Originally Posted by jeffrey.penfield View Post
    My bandsaw blades keep breaking at the weld and this makes me mad. The blades are Supercut brand and they don’t last anytime at all. They don’t have a chance to get dull before the weld breaks. I have adjusted the tension but that did not help.
    Do other people have this problem?
    I found a site called Detroit bandsaws that make custom length bandsaws in the USA. You select width then specify an exact length and then the TPI. I liked that because It was too hard to find a premade blade I wanted online because of all the variables. I assume they weld them there in Detroit once you specify the length.
    Does anyone use this company or a similar company for bandsaw?
    Does anybody reweld their broken blades or custom cut their blades from stock and weld them their self?
    I use Detroit Bandsaw blades and have been really happy with them. I bought a horizontal Wells bandsaw a couple of years ago and it came with a big pile of blades, so it took me a while to need to buy any. I had a couple of questions so I called Detroit Bandsaw and talked to one of their tech guys and he was very helpful and friendly. In fact, he told me to order online rather than in person because it was a bit cheaper, and just said to add "Local pickup" to the order notes. I did that and a couple of days later I got a call that my blades were ready. They're marked as a U.S. blade stock and they added tags to each blade since I was ordering different pitch/tooth combinations. I didn't spend much time trying to measure the blades, but I'm pretty sure they hit my specs for length right on the money. I'm definitely going with them in the future.
    Check out my bench vise website:
    http://mivise.com


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  13. #13
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    Jun 2017
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    Re: Bandsaw blades

    Quote Originally Posted by psacustomcreations View Post
    I have bought blades from
    www.bandsawbladeswarehouse.com and had good luck.
    You dont mention the type of saw, size blades or what you are regularly cutting so adding that info may help with recommendations on the type of blade that may be better or last longer.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    Bad link, try https://bandsawbladewarehouse.com/

    I have been ordering mine from Amazon, they're IMACHINIST brand, bimetal variable pitch. I've been very happy with them.
    Last edited by CAVEMANN; 08-21-2019 at 01:31 PM.
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  14. #14
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    Re: Bandsaw blades

    Supercut blades are USA made, but they are in fact sold by Harbor Freight among others. I wouldn't waste my time repairing them personally, until you figure out if it is the saw, something you are doing, or the blades themselves. I have had the same crappy blade that came with my saw for at least 3 years now and haven't had a need to replace it yet. If you are breaking that many blades, something is wrong with your set, would be my guess.
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  15. #15
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    Dec 2013
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    Re: Bandsaw blades

    Name:  DSCN5674.jpg
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    This is my jig and the silver solder I use. I also use Handy flux from Handy & Harmon. I place thin, narrow strip under the blade(each side) to keep the tooth offset from tipping the blade and put a heavier piece of flat material on top (each side ) to clamp the blade. Works fine for me YMMV.
    Flux is like this: https://www.amazon.ca/s?k=Handy+%26+...ref=nb_sb_noss

    Looks like Handy & Harmon Canada is Lucas Milhaupt in the US.

    https://www.mccombssupply.com/98000-...brazing-alloy/

    Silver solder is not cheap but you don't use much per joint. Grind smooth after brazing as needed.
    ---Meltedmetal

  16. #16
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    Aug 2018
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    Re: Bandsaw blades

    I have cut and welded many a saw blade in the last 20+ years, all at work. We have blade welders built into the bandsaws. Cut Weld Grind Anneal all withing 6 inches. Even with this nice setup it is a PITA, weld breaks prior to annealing or during grinding, or you just overlap it and now you have to cut it again and start over. We have rolls of Starrett bandsaw blade in the shop, and now very few people even have to do it let alone do.
    I haven't built anything I can't throw away. Perfection is the journey.

    Mac

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    562

    Re: Bandsaw blades

    Are you side loading the blade at all ? Not trying to correct a crooked cut half way through ? Not trying to do a curve ? Those of course are all things no bandsaw will tolerate.

    That of course would be for porta-band guessing your maybe talking a stationary band saw.

    All the rollers and guide properly set to support the blade so it tracks perfectly straight. A blade that is tracking cattywhompus will bind itself cutting down straight.


    Try getting a Lenox blade and if your still having similar issues it is the saw or the technique. They will make them special length for you.

    Basically saying either the blade or the saw have a issue because popping at the weld is not normal. Most blades are replaced because of the gaps between the missing teeth. Lol.
    Last edited by danielplace; 08-21-2019 at 06:26 PM.

  18. #18
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    Jul 2018
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    Cumbria, UK
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    Re: Bandsaw blades

    ^ what he said. I'm blaming the saw, or possibly the way you're using it.

    I can't say I've ever snapped a bandsaw blade... touch wood. Worst we ever do is shear a few teeth off.

  19. #19
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    May 2017
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    344

    Re: Bandsaw blades

    I may have it too tight and I was cutting this
    Name:  IMG_1263.jpg
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    It is 3/8 tubing on either side of a one inch plate.
    I will check my saw and the guides. I might need to tighten the spring to reduce downward pressure.
    I will see how different blades do.


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  20. #20
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    Re: Bandsaw blades

    64 1/2 inch blade implies a 4x6 horizontal band saw. Those work great when they work, but they are also renowned for having adjustment issues. I would make sure your saw is not the culprit.

    https://wiki.hsbne.org/_media/tools/...dsawadjust.pdf
    https://henryranch.net/small-machini...metal-bandsaw/
    https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/4x...stment.433509/
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  21. #21
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    Jan 2015
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    Ohio
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    Re: Bandsaw blades

    With that really low TPI, is it possible they're snagging on one of those edges and with enough down pressure and slight out of adjustment that could snap it.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    Re: Bandsaw blades

    Quote Originally Posted by JD1 View Post
    With that really low TPI, is it possible they're snagging on one of those edges and with enough down pressure and slight out of adjustment that could snap it.
    I think so too. 6/10 TPI is a very coarse pitch for such a small blade. 1/2" is what a portaband has. Is 1/2" really the right blade for a 4x8 saw?

    If it is the right blade you have to very carefully start the cut before putting any kind of down pressure on it. New blades also needs to be broken in, I'm not sure if someone mentioned that already.
    Large blades can take more down pressure BTW. They are thicker as well. 3/8" wall thickness is a lot for an 1/2" blade so it will take some time to chew through that.

    We use bimetal blades with M42 teeth. M42 is tool steel with cobalt. I would look for that.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    May 2017
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    344

    Re: Bandsaw blades

    Here is another pic of what I am cutting. This is a 10 TPI blade I picked up at harbor freight because they just opened one that is on my way home from work. I am waiting for a m42 6/10 blade I ordered online. I reduced the tension on the blade and tightened the spring to reduce the down pressure. It is taking a long time to cut, but blade is holding up and not breaking so far. Blade only cost me $9.
    I ordered some 65% silver rods and flux and will try to braze my broken blade together just for fun. I will show my jig and the results when I get around to it.
    Has anyone TIG brazed these with silver brazing rods instead of a torch? They can’t be silver solder because they melt at 1300 degrees.


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  24. #24
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    Re: Bandsaw blades




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  25. #25
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    Re: Bandsaw blades

    [QUOTE=jeffrey.penfield;8713595]

    In this photo I suggest adding a spacer in the vise open area. These vises are not designed for partial clamping.

    For my harbor freight saw , I get my blades at Farm and fleet. Made in USA and are $9.00. Works great and last.

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