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6010 rod - drag or push?

29K views 25 replies 15 participants last post by  loudnproud  
Neither. 6010/6011 are whipped & paused, or you can do small circles. Whip forward to dig, pause to fill.
 
Yes, you whip forward to dig, fall back and pause to fill the crater you just made, then whip forward again to dig... and repeat the cycle.
 
TRX, whip forward about 2 electrode diameters and pause back about 1 diameter. If you want to cool the puddle, whip further forward or whip out to the side, if you want to keep it hotter, whip less.
 
Bennett, I'm not sure about open circuit voltage. I set the current (amps) and weld, the machine takes care of the voltage. Sounds like maybe you need to set the current a bit higher, or hold a longer arc, or try a thinner rod? Your machine is constant current output right?

For what it's worth, my XMT has 90 open circuit volts and a CST 280 has 77. I've welded with both of them and they stick weld equally well.
 
With 7018, 7024 and 7014, do not leave the puddle. Do not whip out of the puddle. Do all your motions within the puddle. You can weave side to side, but stay in the puddle. Did I say stay inside the puddle? Oh yeah, I already said that, sorry. :)

With 7018 and 7024, all you really need to do is drag it along, no other movement necessary, for flat/horiz position. Control the bead size with your current setting and how fast you move the rod along. Move slower = bigger bead. Hotter puddle = bigger bead, provided you're not running away from it (going too fast).

7024 is for flat/horizontal only, too wet for out of position. It's good for filling a big groove faster than using 7018. Drag only.

6010 and 6011 are the whippers. You need to dig/fill with these. No dragging. If you just drag it, you'll have digging but no fill.

6013 seems to like more motion than 7018 but it's not a whip/pause rod like 6011.