[Welder Dave]

Interesting…..
I’ve never tried using a smaller rod for vertical.
The modern inverter welders start so easily I guess it’s feasible that a 3/32 rod would be OK for a newby.
I’ll have to try it sometime.

The only time I’d use a stick though is outdoors and if windy, or rusty steel, or being far away from my CO2 and just wanna get er done. If I had an important vertical weld I’d use the MIG. So I don’t know when I’d test the 3/32 vertical.

But you can learn something new everyday if that’s what you want! I’ll keep it in mind!

Why would you say a 3/32" is harder if you have very little experience with vertical up 7018?

 

[Welder Dave]

3/32" 7018 vertical up you can make look like you did it flat. Just do a steady side to side weave while going up. There's not all the extra filler metal a 1/8" has. Over 1/4" plate 1/8" is a better option but not necessarily on pipe. Always use 2 hands when ever possible and you can hold the rod to help get the puddle established. 1/8" is generally easier for learning to weld but not for doing vertical up.

 

[Welder Dave]

Very few weld procedures call for vertical up stringer beads. It would almost always be on critical pipe welds. Try weaving multipass vertical up welds. It's way more common.

 

[Welder Dave]

Very slight side to side weave helps. Just keep the rod moving watching that the edges of the puddle fill in. The slag will flow to middle of the bead so it's easier to see the edges. If you're getting undercut slow down a bit so it can fill in or weave a little slower pulling the puddle up.

 

[Welder Dave]

.
Agree on time and practice. Still working on it, thanks for the comment and pic. I like to see good welding.

You need to make a pad with the beads overlapping. What you have is still individual beads spaced apart from each other. As for the vertical up 7018, you need to chip the slag off. No way to tell how good a weld is until you chip the slag off.

 

[Welder Dave]

Why stringer beads?