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ArcTan

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
When I'm doing grinding/fitting, or general metal handling, I usually wear some sort of (fairly cheap) thin leather gloves. The stitching usually ends up getting burned by sparks from grinding and then the gloves for apart. I've not tried Tig gloves but I've heard that they are thin so they might work for this purpose. What does everyone else do?
 
I buy the cheap version of the Fireball gloves and use them.
You can get 10 packs of these at the local Asian market or Facebook marketplace for about $1 a pair. This set is about a week or two old. I grind, handle material, and TIG weld in them. At about $1 each, I don't care. I wore these all day this past weekend.

What are you doing that your gloves are exposed to a steady stream of sparks? If you are doing that, change how you hold the item, or where your hands are.

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Discussion starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the replies. I will probably just pick up a cheap pair of welding gloves and deal with them being a little clumsy.

The steady stream of sparks is usually from making deep cuts with a 5" cutting wheel on the grinder, when I have to remove the guard for access.
 
I only use all leather gloves.

I found the clothe type will go up in flames 🔥.

Cheap cloth and and high heat 🔥 is just fire on your hands.

Dave

When I'm doing grinding/fitting, or general metal handling, I usually wear some sort of (fairly cheap) thin leather gloves. The stitching usually ends up getting burned by sparks from grinding and then the gloves for apart. I've not tried Tig gloves but I've heard that they are thin so they might work for this purpose. What does everyone else do?
 
My go to gloves for grinding, metal handling, and most of the welding i do. These are not insulated. I usually wear holes in the finger tips long before the seams split. Can’t say as i have ever split a seam on them. I use them harder than they are intended for and still get 2-3 months out of a pair.
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When ever i need an extra layer of insulation for prolonged heavy welding i use these…
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@ArcTan - go duke nuke'em and select a set that you could use to drill on the icy moon of titan for nickel nodules while using a thermite-based lance. https://www.wellslamontindustrial.com/products/heat-resistant-gloves/
That brand is what I stick with now. Wells Lamont is stocked in the local Mills Fleet Farm stores. They had a black Friday sale "buy one, get 2nd for half off" so I stocked up.

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I used to buy gloves on sale at Menards and they carry RW (Ready Wear) brand and they don't hold up. Then bought Harbor Freight brand Hardy gloves and found they did much better, but after having a couple pair of Wells Lamont for over a year and they do not have holes or broken stitching I will only buy that brand going forward.
 
Tillman 1464 are an upgrade from their 1414. The 1464 has a doubled index finger and full kevlar stitching.
 
TIG welding I need dexterity & heat resistance. I use OVE GLOVE. I have to find them from on line sources.
General use gloves I have a time finding a glove that fits. I have ham hands, sausage fingers. A glove big enough to fit my hand has fingers an inch too long. I have in past used Black Stallion, great fit, very durable, stiching does not fail. Last time in Maine Oxy, I couldn't get my hand in Large, extra large barely fit, & fingers were way too long.
 
I always heard Kevlar stitched leather was the longest lasting,,,,,,,,,

I have leather gloves,, but, 7018 stick welding never wears them out,,
I use the Vulcan TIG gloves. Kevlar thread IIRC. I've gone through a few pair and always wear through the leather before the threads. When I wear through the pads of the fingers, I CA glue more leather on and use them as my "beater" gloves.

Edit: Tilman is obviously better, but I haven't had any complaints/issues with Vulcan.
 
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