Oh, and if the lever has a problem, and it is a mechanical problem, I will probably be able to fix it myself, as i've heard those old welders are pretty simple. If it's any kind of electrical problem that isn't extremely basic though, Im screwed. I would think the lever not moving wouldn't have a lot to do with the electrical part though.

 

Does it look like this ?

http://www.propertyroom.com/itemdetails.aspx?l=7129447

Probably originally built by Century.

The setting clamp (pinch it together and adjust ?) caused issues with it not holding a setting for some owners. You might be able to Jerry-rig some sort of stop to circumvent that issue. If it won't move it's probably rusty inside from non-use and setting up, it's fairly old. That's not a bad thing,It just means you need to unplug it and carefully clean out the inside and see if the slide adjustment is functional or needs careful attention. I've known guys that never changed the setting...they just always used it at the setting it was on for everything. After 20-30 years just setting around the adjustment levers might need some attention. It's not a real technical adjustment system and shouldn't be difficult to fix... Be careful & DON"T spray WD-40 or other stuff inside the case...you'll need to clean it by hand not chemical means.... DON"T get the rust dust in your eyes while you're doing this...

If you have any problems with cleaning it out...It's best to ask here first BEFORE you get into a problem....obsolete machines can be a chore to fix if you mess up something. Take pictures of a problem and maybe someone can help you out.

Those units are pretty bullitproof other than that. For what it's worth--You stole it at $80.. around here even the AC only units bring $100-$150

You might want to gently blow the years of dust out of it..DON'T just start blowing it out with 100psi from an air hose though...Gently !!!

Good Luck...Hope you get it straightened out. Let us know what happens and hang around these guys aren't so bad and you'll learn something from time to time.

 

I never had issues with my welder that had that sort of clamp (also a MW), but my plasma cutter was dropped on it's face by a previous owner, and the clamp was badly bent.

In the welder, when I squeezed the clamp it moved, but only a little. With some roughness, I was able to force it to the top and bottom, and up and back. After a few times, it was all good. The transformer core had built up some rust on the inside that had to be rubbed off.

In the plasma cutter, I had to disassemble, straighten, and reenforce the handle. That was more of a job.

Oh, and my machine had two power taps for the stinger. The "low" one was the better one for welding.

 

Welcome aboard, we were all 17 once. Hope to see you around again.

 

mudbogone, that is exactly it, yes, except mine doesn't have wheels. The lever seems to be stuck in the middle, and won't go to either end of the power scale. So it looks like I'm going to need to take the cover off, and do some cleaning. Will a duster, or some kind of brush work to clean the dust all off? I would probably use a wire brush on any rusted parts. It sounds like I just need to work it a little more, and it will come free. Also, rlitman, Being AC/DC, my machine has something like 5 power taps, but I think I know what you are talking about. I plan on keeping it on AC low for most of my welding, but I searched all over for an affordable AC/DC machine, because I've heard that DC welds can be better in some applications.

 

If it's frozen in the mid-range it's as I suspected..the previous owner probably left it in the mid-range all the time instead of adjusting it. Probably just needs to be freed up. An old paint brush might help dusting it out inside and then low pressure air to blow out the dust.

You'll probably like DC better than AC,but who knows. You at least have the option to use both...remember not all welding rods can be used for both AC & DC welding (it's stated on the electrode package for both or which one). Just pick a smaller rod and practice using them and enjoy.

Good Luck!

 

Alright, thanks. I will get started on that soon. Hopefully I'll have the welder working as good as new by the end of the weekend. I have an old welding school manual from the 50's that I'm going to start digging into, and seeing what this thing will do.

Oh, one more question, on the power taps, how far into those should the lead go, because no matter how hard I push, there is always quite a bit of metal showing on the wire, that seems like it wouldnt be safe to me, but I suppose I could be wrong?

 

Oh, one more question, on the power taps, how far into those should the lead go, because no matter how hard I push, there is always quite a bit of metal showing on the wire, that seems like it wouldnt be safe to me, but I suppose I could be wrong?

My welder is similar to yours.

My leads only go into the sockets about 1/3rd to 1/2 the way too. I though it was strange at first but it's worked OK - no hot ends. I'd just go with it 'as is'.

Lot of these welders were made under different label names. Here's the century version.

Fella here on this website took this photo of the insides when he was changing out some blown diodes and installing a better heat sink (bottom). You can see that squeeze level (current adjuster) moves some laminations (front and back) into and out-of the mains transformer.

 

Do you mean the brass probe connector that plugs into the welder?

Make sure there isn't a dirt-dobber nest in those connector holes. They are famous for filling them up. If the connectors still don't seat into the sockets perhaps someone changed the connectors at one time and they are too big... There are at least two different tapers and probably a couple of straight style connectors as well.

A machine that old might have old style pin connectors of an odd size... I couldn't venture a cure without seeing the problem first hand. As a temp fix if the connectors don't seat all the way you could drill a hole in a dowel section (to take up the extra exposed space) if you cut the dowel slightly shorter than the space (so the connector seats as well as it can when inserted) and slip it over the pin and tape it there you can make a temp fix until you can locate the correct pin connectors, that will keep you from getting shocked.

I hope I'm addressing the problem you're having correctly...Your discription was a little vague.

I had to locate some straight pin connectors for my 1920's AC welder in order to modify my antique machine to make it safer and NOT destroy the antique nature of it. That's how I discovered there are several sizes of pins...some straight..some slightly tapered.

If you figure out what's wrong or you don't understand my answer...just ask more questions...Questions are cheap... repairs or Dr. bills aren't.

Hopefully you'll find dirt-dobber nests in those connector holes and that will fix the problem.

If not...post some pictures of the problem...we might be able to resolve it that way...

 

Yeah, that is what I meant, the holes that the leads grounds plug into to allow you to change settings, etc. The metal part of the lead that is supposed to go to the hole has about a quarter to a half an inch of exposed metal showing, so I'm guessing you are right, nad it is either dirt, or something else. I suppose I will clean the holes out, and then, if it still sticks out, Ill try going with it like Rick has done.

How expensive is it to fix the more minor problems with this welder? Like if something that more commonly fails does exactly that, will I be able to fix it without spending a fortune?

 

How expensive is it to fix the more minor problems with this welder? Like if something that more commonly fails does exactly that, will I be able to fix it without spending a fortune?

Lantz it doesn't get any more simple or cheaper than this! :laugh:
The welder is Basic at Best = simple:

• Power on/off switch
• Mains transformer - with inductive slider section.
• 4 power diodes (cheap compared to other machines)
• Inductor/choke (arc stabilizer)
• fan

The only electronic components are the 4 power diodes.
Heck, this welder doesn't even use a rotary switch to adjust current.
There is no expensive Mother Board, drive motors, digital readouts, etc.
You want simple... This Is It!

 

its pretty cool ur so young and already into welding , u have a good head start if u stick with it . and theres lots of good reading on this site . enjoy the welder !

 

Sweet, simple, heavy duty, and easy to fix is what I want. The diodes are what convert the AC to DC, right? Those are easy to replace if they burn out? I was just worried that since it is Montgomery Ward(Century?), some parts might be obsolete, but since it doesn't have many parts, I'm not worried anymore.

Also, I took the case off and cleaned it out, and worked the lever up and down for a while. The lever is aluminum, but the plates that it slides are plastic, and the studs that hold the lever in have kind of worn out the plastic, and made the lever loose. Somebody who owns a welder like this is going to have to answer this quesiton, because I have no idea how to describe it. IN the future, could I make new side plate slider plastic things(Rick called them laminations?) for the lever to attach to?
One more question, there is a spring under the level that I think is supposed to link the first and second sliding plates together, but only one end of the spring is hooked up, and the other end has a bracket to hook it up, like the first, but the stud must be missing or something, and I can't line the little bracket up with any holes for a stud to go into, so I'm a bit confused there as to the purpose of the spring.

Also, Metal-fab, I've been welding since i was 14 or 15, but I just got around to buying a welder for myself.. I enjoy it a lot. I'm into construction, and build things for myself in general, so the ability to manipulate metal is a must for me..

Oh, and my welder isn't exactly like the Century one you posted, Rick, but it's very similar. Same structure, just different wording on the front.

 

Look around the case of the welder. Find a row of text that has the line voltage, amps, duty cycle (listed as %) In that row is a six digit number. I think it starts 110-xxx. If so it was made by century and parts for it may still be available. Find that number and sent me your e-mail by private message and I will send you a package of information.
If your lever is just stuck. BE VERY CAREFUL TO NOT BENT THE HANDLE OR THE LOCKING MECHANISM or you will have to replace it or find some way to repair it.
The main handle will bend at the rivet where the lock handle pivot.

 

The main handle will bend at the rivet where the lock handle pivot.

Yeah, that's what happened to my plasma cutter (although I'm pretty sure it took a fall on it's face). I took it all apart and bent it straight, but once it was bent, it kept bending again. I ended up welding a solid bar into the center of the "U" channel handle, and it's been good since, but that was a royal pain.
If you can't free it up, you may want to open the case (with it unplugged), and grab the moving part by the inside, so you won't bend the handle. It's not made to withstand much force, because in normal operation, it doesn't need to.

Yes, mine was an AC only machine. A high and a low tap, with the ground wire permanently connected. The high tap allows for a little more current, but also has a higher OCV, which isn't as good at welding.

As for cleaning the holes. If they're a taper fit, they will feel "tight" when fully inserted, and won't want to twist. If you can turn them too easily, then the hole is clogged with something. If not, you can gently adjust the post with some sandpaper. Maybe there's a high spot catching?

 

RE: The diodes are what convert the AC to DC, right?
RIGHT

RE: Those are easy to replace if they burn out? I was just worried that since it is Montgomery Ward(Century?), some parts might be obsolete, but since it doesn't have many parts, I'm not worried anymore.
READ this thread on replacing the diodes in our machines. http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=41926

RE: IN the future, could I make new side plate slider plastic things (Rick called them laminations?) for the lever to attach to?
Yes you could make new plastic side plate sliders.
I didn't mean to call them laminations - that term usually refers to the stack of thin metal sheets that make up a transformer. Sandwiched between those plastic slider plates are metal laminations - that you move into or out of the main transformer's - changing the magentic coupling of the transformer - changing the output current.

RE: there is a spring under the level that I think is supposed to link the first and second sliding plates together, but only one end of the spring is hooked up, and the other end has a bracket to hook it up, like the first, but the stud must be missing or something, and I can't line the little bracket up with any holes for a stud to go into, so I'm a bit confused there as to the purpose of the spring.
You got me there; short of taking my machine apart and posting photo's I can't help with that. When I had my machine apart, right after purchasing it, for cleaning, I neglected to take photos - don't make the same mistake, if you have the covers off snap-snap away.
If you post photo's of the problem areas, folks may be able to help you more.

RE: Oh, and my welder isn't exactly like the Century one you posted, Rick, but it's very similar. Same structure, just different wording on the front.
Here's another version that came up on Kijiji today.

It seems that a lot of these units were made in the same factory and then labelled with a wide variety of names - the list keeps growing.

Lantz, it sounds like you have some work to do - carefully as ccawgc suggested.

 

.

Lantz,​

FWIW, here's a thread about another old Montgomery Ward AC-DC welder needing restoration:​

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=30776&highlight=montgomery+ward​

Detailed pictures of the faceplate of another one of the same model are in post 8 while the entire front is shown in Post 9. I actually still have a 'manual' showing the parts breakdown for this 250/250 amp model; don't know how similar it is inside to your 250/140 unit.

Sounds as if previous responses have the situation covered, but if you need more information, I could probably scan and send or post what I have.

.

 

I think the lever is bent a little from the previous owner. It isn't bent badly, but it is tweaked enough that it might have a small downward angle, but that could be the way it is supposed to be. Ill have to look it over more closely tomorrow. It isn't bent badly enough that my working it back and forth made it any worse, so I will see what I can do about it. It will try to take and post some photos tomorrow, but they will be bad quality, because my computer webcam is the only camera I have.

Ill try and get you that number tomorrow too, ccawgc.
Oh, I sandpapered the part of the lead and ground wires that go into the power taps, and they now go in a little far, not all the way though. I think it will be ok though, they're in far enough now that it would be hard for anyone to shock themselves.

 

Alright, here's the photos I promised. I tried to show some of the problems I've been talking about. As you can kind of see in one of the pictures, the rivets have worn larger holes in the sliding plates, and so I am going to eventually need to replace the plates or something.

Also, I know my room is very messy. It's because I've been working on a welder in the middle of it.

Oh yeah, and Ccawgc, I didnt find a plate like that, probably because the front gives most of that info, but I did find a sticker with the serial number, which is B357180.

I also found the date code, which is 081583.

Sounds like it might not be Century, but what could it be?

 

As you can kind of see in one of the pictures, the rivets have worn larger holes in the sliding plates, and so I am going to eventually need to replace the plates or something.... Sounds like it might not be Century, but what could it be?

Lantz - the inside of your Montgomery Ward AC/DC 230/140 Powr-Kraft welder looks identical to mine - A Canadian Tire 'Mastercraft AC/DC 230/140 - and mine looked the same inside as that posted by llamafur in http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=41926
THe only apparent difference in these three welders is the color of paint and the name on the front panel.

If the vertical plastic sliders are in good shape, maybe you could get by just replacing those studs with larger diameter ones. Hard to tell from the picture but those 'studs' look like sort of like pop rivets... maybe just replace the loose ones with a larger size that fits tight - cheap, easy fix.

 

Looks like an easy fix, BUT Holy Mackerel is that thing brand new? Forget what I said about blowing it out!!!!

If you got that machine for $80 I want to shop there. I can't imagine it has any issues being that spotless. It had to be just setting up since new.

You have a keeper there and Happy for you. At your age having a good machine right out of the box should be a plus. Good Luck to you.

 

Haha, yeah, I didn't have a lot of trouble with dust, it must have been kept somewhere pretty clean, although in Idaho, I can't imagine a place that didn't accumulate a ton of dust..Anyway, sounds like I've got a pretty widely designed welder that was used by several companies, that should be a good thing..

And Rick, yes, that is exactly what I'm talking about. I hadn't thought about that, i don't have a rivet gun, but that's not a problem. Would bigger rivets fit through the aluminum handle though? That's the only concern I have there.

Oh, by the way, pawn shops can be awesome places to buy welders. He wanted 100 bucks for it, but I paid 80. If you find someone who doesn't know the slightest bit about welders, you can get away with paying very little sometimes.

 

Oh, I jjust had a thought, this is a single phase welder right? Becuase if it isn't , I'm screwed.

 

It is..You're fine...

Now ..Where you gona plug it in?

 

Well, this will sound kind of ******* to you mudbugone, but we don't have a dryer, but we do have a dryer plugin, so I will be using that. I will probably have to get an adapter, as well as make sure I don't weld at max power too often. I am going to be moving to another place next year, and hopefully that will have a shop.

 

Your talking to a guy that used to go to the outhouse at night because we didn't have indoor plumbing.... You don't know "*******" LOL.

A dryer plug will usually be a 30A circuit while an electric stove plug will usually be a 50A circuit.

For most situations the dryer plug will do just fine. If you need an adapter you might as well make yourself an extension cord so you can get the welder where you need it. An extension cord is less expensive than longer leads.

You shouldn't have any concern about using the highest output unless your building a bridge... Lots of folks use a dryer plug without issues.

Good Luck,and let us know when you get a chance to use that machine.

 

Haha, we actually used to have an outhouse too in one of our old houses.

Anyway, sounds like I won't have any trouble with the dryer plugin, and my brother just got his own welder for 60 bucks that came with a 25 foot 220 extension cord, so we are all set there.

I am hoping to start a project soon with our welders, but we have to accumulate some scrap metal, and some rods first.

 

They look ok.
Most likely the red sleeve has split and slipped on the contact knurls.

 

... Most likely the red sleeve has split and slipped on the contact knurls.

Yep, that's what happened - before my time. I just live with it.

 

Look at the small line of text on the front panel, right above the terminal jacks.
The century model number should be there.
The handle should be straight. The shunt assembly may still be available.
With the model number I can check.