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Discussion starter · #41 · (Edited)
Love this! Great work guys. I have a BOSS V-plow repair i'll be posting here as i get it done. There's more of those around here i think because it's a michigan company. I bought it dirt cheap for my own use. Maybe I'll beef it up while i'm at it.

7A,

Can you tell me more about this carbon arc torch? I'm not really a big fan of OXY/ACETY cutting. I suppose this does a better job? I've never seen one used before. My uncle had an engine drive Lincoln he used to turn up to kill and just stab the electrode through to cut. I'm guessing this is more refined.
Basically that's what a carbon arc electrode does, (burn the material away with high amperage current) only it uses a mostly pure carbon electrode (it has a very thin copper coating on the outside) as the vehicle to carry the current to the workpiece. In this instance, I used both a torch and CAC. The carbon arc can gouge out bad welds, or broken ones with very good precision, and is much more practical for some of the stuff I did on the plow. I have said it many times here, but you can make some pretty darn nice cuts with a torch once you learn how to properly set it up and how to use one. I think a lot of angst that comes with using oxyfuel is primarily due to lack of proper training. Once I learned how to correctly use one, I would never, ever be without it.

The drawback of carbon arc is you need a relatively big, powerful welding power source and an air compressor to run one. I use my engine drive, which is 300 amps. Shop air from my two stage compressor. That's kind of scraping the bottom of the barrel as far as CAC goes. I use 3/16" electrodes, which are quite small as far as carbons go. It does a fair job but my little machine isn't made for doing CAC on a regular basis, so you have to take it easy when doing it. The torch has a button which when pressed, is actually a valve that allows air to travel thru small holes in the holder's head. The air blows the material away as it melts from the high amperage current traveling thru the carbon electrode, which is contacted to the workpiece as if you were stick welding.

Carbon arc is a very useful tool if you have the machinery to run it. Most homeowners and hobby guys won't have it, nor a solid need for it that cannot be met with other methods. It's one of those things that comes in very handy when you really need it. Your A/BP will run smaller electrodes (3/16-1/4") ok on a 100 amp breaker and if you have a decent air compressor (over 12 CFM to get by enough to get the job done). I used to run mine on a little wheelbarrow style engine driven compressor when I had my big shop since I never brought a bigger compressor over there. It did the job but barely. You can find the torch setups on eBay for under $75 if you look around. $150 will buy them all day long, sometimes even NOS, which is how I bought mine.

Hope that explains it a little
 
Hmm. Very interesting. I may have to pick one up and play with it. I have a 10hp 2 stage compressor. But it also sounds like i need more practice on my oxy fuel torch. Never had much luck with it. Could be my technique.

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Then it was on to three passes full perimeter. A lot of time with a weed burner preheating the 2" mounts alternating between the two. Total time was about 10 hours working alone. This last pic is the finished product, I left the brace on overnight to cool. It fit like a glove. :cool2:
That is a monster plow! Nice work and thanks for posting.
 
Hmm. Very interesting. I may have to pick one up and play with it. I have a 10hp 2 stage compressor. But it also sounds like i need more practice on my oxy fuel torch. Never had much luck with it. Could be my technique.

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A better option for the smaller operations is plasma gouging. ChuckE put out a good video comparing the two -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xl63Wg-LVfI

As for Oxy/acet operation, check out Irishfixit's videos (wayne's fixit shop) on Youtube. He put out some great information and was a torch master.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PBEyYzJszI
 
First big snow of the season... about 15". Good news is that I pushed it around all day and didn't break anything...yet.

 
i can plainly see from that video that i am not setting up my torch correctly. Thanks!

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This is a plow problem prevention post..
Truck....


Now with most Fisher set ups you have a safety chain or some call it the over the road chain.
Nice to have but not the ideal set up from the factory.
The chain slack constantly gets caught between the angle piston and the A frame.
Constant crushing can cause angle piston failure.
To combat that all you need is a heavy duty spring and 2 attaching gizmos that I can't recall what they are...


Chain stays out of the way but will have the "strech" needed for those downhill adventures while the plow is in "Float" mode.

Works great!..


...zap!
 
Nosepiece broken & rewelded several times, A-frame ends fatigued. Time for a more serious repair. Chopped, spliced, ground.
New pivot plates, longer length to reach fresh metal.
Cleaned well, then multipassed with 7018.







Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow....
 
Anyone familiar with the Boss VXT?

I am replacing my A - Frame, not repairable and $300 and change for a new one is money well spent.

However, the bushing the pin slides through to hold the A-Frame to the center section appears to have a partially cracked weld. I was thinking of grinding out the old weld where its broke and re-welding while the pin is inserted to keep it aligned. Make sense? Or do I repair the weld without the pin in and then ream?
 
I love it when a plan comes together...
 
Hi
My friend made a plow for my skid steer out of an old tractor 3pt hitch grader.
The plow was below the attachment plate which was causing damage to the skidsteer arms.
I've since got my own welder (last year)and started to modify/improve the design the plow.
I've been looking at plow design and notice the all have springs/give.
Is there any point to working on this plow, or should I start over?
The skidsteer is a mini.
Any advice is welcome, thank you
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