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Trying 1/4" Aluminum !!!

8.1K views 20 replies 11 participants last post by  B_C  
need more power. welding 1/4 cold I would want 250 amps minimum, more would be nice for start up. Can you turn the freq up higher. my ta/am stops at 150 I almost never move it from there except for dirty alum from time to time. Balance I usually run 70-75% If its thicker and towards the end of what my machine is capable of I will make your its really clean and run it as high as 90 % just to get all the juice out of it. Needs to be super clean though. Did you grind a bevel on those pieces or just butt weld them. If you put a bevel you won't need anywhere as much heat on first pass, then turn it up and weld and second quickly after the piece will already be preheated. Helium mix gas will help also.

Some my have different option but this is what I find.

-The higher the freq the more concentrated the arc = more heat where you want to weld instead of dancing around.
-Balance the lower you run it the more cleaning you get but the heat input spends more time jumping back and forth. That's why you see the tungsten ball faster the lower the bal. Higher bal and your putting more heat into the metal with less cleaning. "prep as always is key"
-Tungsten at these amps your close to wanting a 1/8 tungsten, I like 2% lanthanated can't find them around here I have to order them from on the line, With that inverter make the tungsten sharp,sharp,sharp it will help to focus the arc. 1.5% still works just fine tough.
-Preheat when you welding something near the limit of the machine a little preheat goes along way. I have full pen welded 1/4 and repaired thick casting with only my ta 185 but it wasn't a sit down and weld situation. With casts I preheat with a oven, torch, gas grill what ever I have handy. "The microwave didn't work out so good though"Kidding of coarse. The 1/4 6061 I did was just goofing around to see if I could do it but lots of cleaning,preheat, and multiple passes were needed and I melted the argon line off my torch in the process. For the time being 1/4 up for me is done with a spool gun till cash flow allows for bigger tig. I would suggest getting really comfortable with thiner aluminum first. Really pay attention to the puddle learn to read it. With alum they're are plenty of times you can put a bead down on something like a fillet weld with little penetration if you don't know what to look for. Pretty much you get a bead barely wetted into the edges with very limited strength and prone to cracking. depending on the joint you either want to see the puddle wet all the way to the corner or keyhole a little. Even on a fillet I like to see it key hole a little.

One last thing. Use a smaller filler. A smaller filler will let you keep the puddle hotter. When you learn to feed a smaller rod faster you will get a hotter puddle and better puddle control which make for nicer looking welds.
 
Did you have the torch at an oddball angle to get in there? Usually odd angles for some reason cause the frosted beads. I was told my from instructor when I took my class awhile back that it was gas related.
Turn the machine up to 220 amps and stand on the pedal. That machine will output 225-227 amps as shown on the display.
I disagree with the above, lower frequency. The 3/32 tungsten will be fine as long as you have less cleaning.
If you still don't have enough power, take off some cleaning on the EP to say 90% or 80% and leave the EP alone. This will give it more punch. That independent control on the AC waveform is really a cool feature on that machine. Kind of tricky to set it up, but hold the button all the way on the right until it says EN- or EP and turn the knob to adjust. The AC light starts to flash then so you know you are in the mode. Hold the button for a few seconds again to exit that mode and the AC light will be solid.

But I don't think it's really needed. Even the Miller Syncrowave 210 is rated for 1/4" on steel and aluminum
So you don't think that running a higher freq helps to concentrate the arc? Not arguing your point may just be a difference in machine but I know with mine it helps. I just feel with aluminum specially when you don't have power to spare it should be as concentrated as possible and left for the aluminum displace it out. I know there are other benefits also by keeping the arc condensed like being able to weld up to a edge without melting it over. Why loose the heat where its not needed? May also just be personal preference in puddle profile.
 
I can't speak for any inverter as I weld aluminum with my old Airco - but 230 amps at 60hz welded 1/4" for me.
If I turned it up more I think it would do even better, but 230 is the top on my mid setting and it was working so I left it.

I saw a couple of Jody's videos where he talked about getting more heat in the joint, more freq narrowed the arc, but gave less overall heat.
He said he learned from some manufacturer (or something like that) that lower freq put more overall heat into the piece.
He was welding on 1" alum, if I recall correctly, and had it at 50hz.
I can see your points. I will have to mess with it. I guess when you think of it the science behind it kinda makes sense. Lately wish I had a big old machine like your airco. Poor little inverter has been taking a pounding. Time for a cooler. The gas hose is about foot shorter than the rest of the lead. That TA is one tough little bastard though yet to shut it down. I will report findings I may be totally wrong but I guess as I sit here and think I maybe partial to higher freq for puddle profile.

Just watched the vid. Looks like I stand or currently sit corrected. I got a bunch of alum work this weekend to get done. Its all thin stuff by while Im there I will have to pull some thicker stuff out and give it a whirl. Points well made and taken