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What do you think? (Motorcycle hitch)

7.7K views 90 replies 18 participants last post by  Firefighter6070  
Hello, I've been researching about making a hitch for my motorcycle to tow a small trailer. Many of them are a through the axle bolt set up for a one wheeled trailer. I didn't want that as I wanted to use a two wheeled trailer to tow my kayak.

I've created a hitch, but I've been getting feedback from guys who ride that suggest I mount the hitch to the frame, but to me...the frame is very thin metal and tubing.

I instead went with the through the axle bolt design but created a u bolt type deal on the right swingarm the will hold the trailer hitch stationary rather than flop up and down.

I also have a heim joint that I bought that is for motorcycle towing that can also rotate 360 so the trailer will be no issue when I turn or go up and down.

I did overbuilt this hitch but I need your help to see if this will be safe enough and won't hurt the swingarm. I figured the swingarm is the most durable part on the bike.

I will attach pictures of my hitch as well as what the frame looks like in bare form.

View attachment 1745212 View attachment 1745213 View attachment 1745214 View attachment 1745215 View attachment 1745216
What do yall think? Should I keep the design or move to a frame style hitch?
I haven't read through the thread, just the first post.

Look at what Rokon does for their hitch. https://www.rokon.com/product/tow-bar-kit-hard/

https://www.rokon.com/product/receiver-tow-bar/

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That model motorcycle does not have enough air capacity to actuate the brakes,, AND have air to lower the tag axle.
He is just hoping that the Weights and Measures officer does not see him,, until he can install a larger compressor.;)
Hope the DOT guys don't catch him with caged brakes! I don't see any air hoses!

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Had a thought - are surge brakes on a fifth wheel trailer a thing? Not sure what the benefit would be. We had surge brakes on the trailer for our Boston Whaler and you had to get out of the truck and lock out the master cylinder if you wanted to back up.

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i don't know but cant see why not!
Me neither. I'm sure there are some out there, but I can't figure a reason for it.

F'king Google is giving me really dumb results when I search stuff like "Fifth Wheel Surge Brakes".

I DID find a patent for a surge brakes apparatus for gooseneck trailers. It's the exact opposite of what I would do for something like a tractor trailer. This patent describes a system where you mount the trailer master cylinder to a sliding bracket that the ball is mounted to. Since you have to detach the master cylinder from the tow vehicle every time you unhitch AND you need a special hitch, I kinda doubt anyone uses this setup. Might be nice on a travel trailer? https://www.google.com/search?q=goo...aA5wAHgDgAH1AYgBvjWSAQYwLjQzLjOYAQCgAQGwARDIAQjAAQE&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp

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That seems to be the norm more and more lately. Apparently there are bots out there that search for stuff, then copy all the text from a site and then paste that text into their OWN "site," and more often than not, you'll do a Google search for something, and you'll find 568 sites that all contain the same (usually stupid and clueless) text.

The current workaround for Googling anything is to input your normal search terms and then add "+reddit" so that all results must come from reddit.

It seems to work pretty well so far for weeding out those 568 websites all containing the same clueless text...
Also helps to turn off all of the tracking and "personalized" crap. I DONT want personalized searches. They're an inconvenience.

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My kayak is 116 pounds as it is a pedal drive Old Town. I'm still looking for a light trailer and I'm still trying to figure out using a wheel type dolly to pull the kayak as someone mentioned on here.
Gotcha. That's about what mine weighs. I'll post a drawing of what I'd do for a dolly. I really need to build one for mine, since I added a trolling motor (40lb Minn Kota), it's getting heavier and I don't like dragging it.

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Please do. I'm still trying to figure something out where it won't stress the hull when hitting a pothole.

If all else fails, I have an idea of making an aluminum/galanized boat trailer into something I can use. I may cut the hitch frame down and mount a hitch mount for when I'm hauling stuff and then add the cut off portion back with by adding a coupler to the area I cut off and then put the hitch on the other end and haul the kayak.
I've gotta go load the truck and go take the trash the the dump, then I'll work on that drawing. I should be able to post it in maybe 2 hours or so.

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Oops. Forgot to make that drawing.

My idea, though is pretty straight foward... I think, so I'll try to make a quick drawing on phone. I'll still follow up with a better one tomorrow.

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Disclaimer - I typed this on my phone, on and off, over the course of half an hour while I was watching TV. Hopefully it makes sense.

Make two U shaped pieces out of 1" steel pipe and size them so that the uprights are the same distance apart as the scuppers. Space the two U pieces apart foward/aft so they match up with two of the pairs of scuppers.

The main member that's running front to back would be something like 2" square tube, maybe 1/8" wall. Weld the two U shapes onto the top face of the square tube. Weld the axle to the bottom face and be sure to gusset it to the sides of the square tube. I would use small trailer tires with integrated hubs like these; https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_48405_48405

Now - what I'm going to do for mine is make the tongue removable. Looking at the "doodle" that I made, the square tube is going to stop at the front "U shape" and I'll have another piece of square tube sized to slide into it and pin in place. That way, I could tow the kayak around with a four wheeler or I could remove the tongue and just use it as a dolly do I can roll the kayak around on foot.

I guess I COULD still do that with the tongue on, but my kayak is 12'6, plus the trolling motor on the back. I'd have the two U's in the rear 4 scuppers, so with the tongue on the dolly/trailer it'd be like 10 or 11 feet long. I want to be able to fit the cart in the back of an SUV and put the kayaks on the roof if I ever take them on vacation or something like that.
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I think this would be the closest thing but this set up wouldn't work due to the metal thickness as well as wheels/bearings
View attachment 1745483
Here's a slightly better doodle. I just free-handed it on printer paper, so it ain't great, but I think it conveys the idea. I didn't draw the removable tongue. It's just a piece of slightly smaller square tube that slides in and pins in place. If you don't want removable tongue, you could just use one long piece of tubing... it could be a piece of pipe, too.
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What would be really cool is to use dirtbike tires/wheels on the trailer. I'm not sure if it'd be worth adding suspension to the trailer. It'd certainly be nice, but it does add a whole extra layer of complexity.

If you DO opt to add suspension, I'd go for a pair of single leaf springs and mount the axle on top of the springs to keep the trailer a bit lower and more stable.

You really aren't going to need much spring. Smaller than what you'd find on any utility trailer, anyway. I'd go to your local spring shop (like Thurston Spring Services in Richmond, VA) and see what they suggest.

I think a track width of maybe 3-1/2 feet with the axle about 1/3rd of the way foward from the rear of the kayak aught to give you a good combination of maneuverability and stability.

If you do end up using dirtbike tires, you need to paint the trailer to match that KTM.

Actually, do that anyway. It aught to look pretty sweet.

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So that Vevor trailer I posted could work if I switched out the tired and maybe weld the metal together where it extends out? ��
I think it could work well if you did something to add rigidity to the tongue. You could use a pair of ratchet straps and go from the tongue, all the way around the kayak, then back to the tongue. Do this near the hitch and somewhere along the midpoint of the tongue. Having it all tied together tight like that will transfer some of the bending load to the kayak rather than all of it being on that (1" square?) square tube.

If you aren't going to have any suspension, definitely air down the tires some. Be careful, though. Too low tire pressure will put more heat in the tires and can lead to a failure.

I still think motorcycle or dirtbike wheels would be a decent choice. I think the relatively large diameter would be advantageous on rough roads, trails, etc. Plus, the larger circumference means the tires will be turning slower at a given speed.

Also worth noting that tires with a higher load rating are likely going to have a rougher ride due to stiffer sidewalls, so that's another think motorcycle tires have going for them.

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