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Re: Is this weld too cold???

For those of us less experienced, I judge penetration on MIG by looking at the parent metals and the weld puddle. If I do not have cherry red metal when i finish and I did not see a decent weld puddle, I know there was no penetration and my filler metal is probably just sitting on top like toothpaste. For a novice, is that too simple?


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Re: Is this weld too cold???

I honestly don't care about wrapping corners. I've never seen a drawing or had a customer tell me to avoid the stop start on a corner, so I just put them on the corners. If it's so highly stressed that it cracks at the corner, then it was probably a weak design to start with.

I do make an effort to fill the corners right up, though. I'll wrap the gun around the corner slightly to angle it into the corner and pause to fill it.

Can't put a stop-start on tests for code, though. They need them on a straight so they can inspect them.

Re: Is this weld too cold???

Thanks Munkul. I tend to stop and start at the corners. This not the best stop and start for sure. My confidence is a little rattled. lol

Re: Is this weld too cold???

Better. I think you're still travelling a little slow, but you need to pause at the tie-ins to fill the corners stop-starts up properly.

No doubt someone will be along shortly to tell you to never put the stop-starts at corners, but personally i don't care, it's rarely THAT critical. As long as they are good start-stops.

Re: Is this weld too cold???

Ok here are a few from today 3/16 tube to 1/4 plate.
Working on "wet toes" less gun manipulation. The tie in on the far left is poor.

Re: Is this weld too cold???

I believe your right. I'm not much of a weave, whip, or any other manipulating of the bead. I like straight smooth burned in weld beads. Also what about a fillet gauge??? The welds the original poster is doing should have a 1/8" fillet (maybe 3/16" fillet but no more). Most of the time you see a "stack of dimes" weld that has questionable penetration it is alway way to big on fillet size. Trying to get the "stack of dimes" look usually leads to colder welder settings and slow travel speed. It is kind of a bad MIG welding habit to get into.

Re: Is this weld too cold???

Hi. I suppose it all depends on what you are aiming for. Do you want nice cosmetic rippled welds, probably
they are strong enough for the job intended. Or do You need Real strong burned in welds like Sberry's

Re: Is this weld too cold???

Can take the ripples right out. The bottom bead was the first one out of the box with the chart, rest second bead with machine wide open. HH 210, 030 Cleaner plate would help a little.

Re: Is this weld too cold???

Originally Posted by Kelvin

Google is your friend.









Many if not most acids work. I'd try "The Works" toilet cleaner (hydrochloric acid).

Thank you i did not find that diagram when I googled. That is helpful

Re: Is this weld too cold???

Originally Posted by Munkul

I think your settings look good, maybe slightly cold (hard to tell) but you're travelling too slow. The bead is bigger than it needs to be.

IMHO mig on steel should be pretty smooth, the dimed look is generally an indication of to much manipulation, too low a wire speed and not enough straight welding. If you're welding on the flat, turn it up and travel faster.

I agree, I just loaded the truck with 200 finished pieces. The ones I took pictures of are not my typical work as I stated before, I think I was just tired and had poor gun angle and tried to compensate with going slower. I think I did this subconsciously, hell if I know at this point.
I always check my work when once I'm done welding it and before I load it. I pulled 6 pieces all from that days batch.
When I started back up in the morning I felt like my old self and had nice "wet toes".
I have another 100 to go and will take a picture or two.
Weird how you forget the basics when tired.

Re: Is this weld too cold???

I agree with Munkul, your settings look good. You just have to speed up a bit. Maybe use slightly more of a push angle. I don't do cursive E's but twist my wrist side to side slowly to get good wetting at the toes. Arc should be close to the leading edge of the puddle to ensure good fusion.

Re: Is this weld too cold???

I would cut and etch some samples to be sure. You might be surprised what you find.

Like mentioned before any acid works to etch, the weaker acids just take longer to do so (even household vinegar works) .

Looks like you're not getting root penetration (the main problem in penetration vs fillet weld) by the way the ends are rolled over the steel and not wet in.

Gun manipulation can cause you to keep the arc too far back in the puddle and not burn into the base steel corner root - This is why many people recommend stringers.

When manipulating the gun make sure you are burning into the root of the steel and THEN filling in after it. When I weave I tend to just trace the leading edge of the puddle (progressing half moon or V shape depending), making sure i am melting into the corner of the base steel.

Fillet IMO welds are the easiest to look sound, but not have proper penetration at the root.

I know I've made plenty of great looking fillet welds with the toes beautifully wet in and everything - only to cut and etch and see zero root penetration.

Best of luck!

Re: Is this weld too cold???

I think your settings look good, maybe slightly cold (hard to tell) but you're travelling too slow. The bead is bigger than it needs to be.

IMHO mig on steel should be pretty smooth, the dimed look is generally an indication of to much manipulation, too low a wire speed and not enough straight welding. If you're welding on the flat, turn it up and travel faster.

Re: Is this weld too cold???

The horizontal weld in post #9 looks cold on the side with the plate with the hole in it, to me. I'm good at making cold welds so should know!

You can etch with most acids. Vinegar will even do it super slow. I used some Ospho recently as it was handy and that worked well after a couple minutes contact. Naval jelly should do it and easy to find in hardware stores too.

Re: Is this weld too cold???

Naval jelly works, just slowly. Oven cleaner works too

Re: Is this weld too cold???

Originally Posted by Reebz

So T joint bend test Thursday. What is your method?

Google is your friend.

Originally Posted by Reebz

I need to look up what to etch with

Many if not most acids work. I'd try "The Works" toilet cleaner (hydrochloric acid).

Re: Is this weld too cold???

I need to look up what to etch with

Re: Is this weld too cold???

Or cut and etch

Re: Is this weld too cold???

So T joint bend test Thursday. What is your method?

Re: Is this weld too cold???

Here is a different angle, not the prettiest weld.

Re: Is this weld too cold???

Mig can make beautiful looking welds.
As stated, do a bend test.
Ive repaired factory welds where the weld was only laying on top. The latest was a farm 3 point backblade. It still lasted for years.


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Re: Is this weld too cold???

Originally Posted by Josey

Those welds are just sitting on top of the plate. And although very decorative, Like tig welds.
But they have very little structural strength, Load bearing mig welds should be burned into the plate
and smooth and flat on the top

You can't tell that from those pics. Those toes in the first pic are wetted in nicely.

Re: Is this weld too cold???

Originally Posted by Josey

Those welds are just sitting on top of the plate. And although very decorative, Like tig welds.
But they have very little structural strength, Load bearing mig welds should be burned into the plate
and smooth and flat on the top

Josey I will snap another picture from a different angle. I think they are burned in.

Re: Is this weld too cold???

Those welds are just sitting on top of the plate. And although very decorative, Like tig welds.
But they have very little structural strength, Load bearing mig welds should be burned into the plate
and smooth and flat on the top

Re: Is this weld too cold???

looks much better