Post a reply to the thread: Lathe chatter
You may choose an icon for your message from this list
Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
A) Welding/Fabrication Shop B) Plant/Production Line C) Infrastructure/Construction/Repair or Maintenance/Field Work D) Distributor of Welding Supplies or Gases E) College/School/University F) Work Out of Home
A) Corporate Executive/Management B) Operations Management C) Engineering Management D) Educator/Student E) Retired F) Hobbyist
Will turn www.example.com into [URL]http://www.example.com[/URL].
Re: Lathe chatter On youtube search this: ABOM shop talk 19 That should bring it up.
Re: Lathe chatter
Re: Lathe chatter Originally Posted by TraditionalToolworks Doesn't it show in my message above? shows in both Firefox on my computer and on my iPhone. Just plays when I click on it. I use carbide parting tools more often than HSS, but depends on the task at hand. If the part gets big enough it's usually better to cut it off on a band saw, then face it. Depends on large it is. When you start getting a 5"-6" diameter part, parting starts getting more difficult, at least for me. A lot of it has to do with the stickout required. It pops up "Video unavailable". I tried Searching You Tube, lots of videos by ABOM79, not that.
Re: Lathe chatter Originally Posted by Willie B I couldn't play the parting tool video. Couldn't find it on you tube either. Doesn't it show in my message above? shows in both Firefox on my computer and on my iPhone. Just plays when I click on it. Originally Posted by Willie B I don't have a carbide parting tool, and I doubt my 400 RPM lathe would work with a carbide parting tool. I use carbide parting tools more often than HSS, but depends on the task at hand. If the part gets big enough it's usually better to cut it off on a band saw, then face it. Depends on large it is. When you start getting a 5"-6" diameter part, parting starts getting more difficult, at least for me. A lot of it has to do with the stickout required.
Re: Lathe chatter good video...…..have to see if it helps. I tend to stickout too much, that might be the problem
Re: Lathe chatter I'm watching the video now. I'm interested to see what he says. PARTING TOOLS DO NOT LIKE ME.
Re: Lathe chatter I couldn't play the parting tool video. Couldn't find it on you tube either. I think my parting tool was chipping on the corners ever so slightly. Is speed critically important for parting? I don't have a carbide parting tool, and I doubt my 400 RPM lathe would work with a carbide parting tool.
Re: Lathe chatter Originally Posted by William McCormick I have an old one too, I bought the best heavy synthetic gear oil made no more problems. Unless the lathe hits 40-degrees, then it is a bit slow starting. Sincerely, William McCormick I've got 140 for the final drives on the bulldozer, happens to be the same specified for the gearbox on my Bush Hog 105. I've even considered John Deer corn head grease. It is solid until it gets stirred up, then flows like oil, but only where it is stirred. An old friend was consuming the power train on his three point roto tiller every few years. He was buying a new one. We rebuilt with new parts & packed with corn head grease. So far no leaks & it is full. I couldn't use it as is, The lathe has gravity oilers, have to switch to grease fittings.
Re: Lathe chatter Willie, Watch this video, Adam offers great advice in this video.
Re: Lathe chatter Originally Posted by Willie B Thinking about it, small shaft, at center, Do I need any relief below the cutting edge? On a parting tool you do need clearance on the front. Don't need a lot, but you do need some if you don't want it to rub, the front won't work very well if it's square, there might be some exceptions on very small material. How To Run A Lathe is a good reference for toolbits.
Re: Lathe chatter Originally Posted by M J D One thing about parting is you will find out quickly if you aren't set up perfectly. I avoid parting whenever possible. A lot of times I use the porta band and then face to length. If I part I only use these very thin very hard Brazillian parting tools. Unfortunatley I no longer can get them as the supplier is gone. So I use a hacksaw on high speed. Sincerely, William McCormick
Re: Lathe chatter Originally Posted by Willie B Today didn't go so well. I began cutting a 1-3/4" hole with a hole saw through a piece of hot rolled mild steel. That went fine. After passing through 1" steel, only a few hole saw teeth lost their paint, and still feel sharp. Truing it to 1.972 went very well. I then wanted to make a facing cut on the plate to create a surface perpendicular to the bore. The plate is vaguely shaped like a capital R. Doing a facing cut was impossible. I eventually figured out my 300 LB carriage was walking away. After resolving the problem, the tool kept sticking, locking the whole lathe up, and slipping the belts. It took hours. I tried numerous grind shapes, & honed the tool several times. Ultimately, I cut .080" off the legs of the R, before I got .002" from the center of the faceplate. I mounted the odd shaped piece on the 18" faceplate by bolting four 1/2 X 2 X 4.5" pieces with $9.00 each bolts for the purpose from Mc Master Carr. Holding eack piece of 1" stock in place with the tailstock, I MIG welded heavy tacks to the bolted tabs. Not yet sure what went wrong. Is your lathe belt-driven or direct drive? If it is belt-driven you might want to use the gears when facing on a small lathe they act as a flywheel. Are you putting just the point to work or putting the whole face of the cutter to the work? I would just put the point to the work. You want to turn it slow with torque and if you have auto-feed use that and take a few thousandths at a time. Sincerely, William McCormick
Re: Lathe chatter Originally Posted by TraditionalToolworks Winner winner chicken dinner! Award to MJD Yeah, you need a better way to square it up, by eye only works in horseshoes, unless you continue to adjust it until it cuts correctly. Another way is to square up the Aloris to the chuck face, if it will fit between the jaws. You need to make sure the toolholder is square to the work. If the cutoff tool is ground correctly and sharp it should peel off metal which will curl cleanly without chatter, even when fed by hand. One thing about parting is you will find out quickly if you aren't set up perfectly. I avoid parting whenever possible. A lot of times I use the porta band and then face to length.
Re: Lathe chatter Originally Posted by Willie B My lathe is an antique. It's heavy, handles 20" diameter, by 52" between centers. Chatter is a problem. I believe bearings are Babbitt. Anything longer than a foot will chatter. Between centers is better, but not cured. Is there anything I can do to improve? I need a longer pin for a backhoe thumb. 2" diax14" needs to be .010 smaller to fit the bushings. Carbide cutter was awful! HSS, cleaner, but almost like a thread cut in it. I think I've got to throw it away. I have an old one too, I bought the best heavy synthetic gear oil made no more problems. Unless the lathe hits 40-degrees, then it is a bit slow starting. Sincerely, William McCormick
Re: Lathe chatter Originally Posted by leightrepairs Also need to have a very rigid set up, and the shortest stick out of the cutting tool. The whole operation is heavy duty. Lathe is 3000 LBS. I set every cutter up to barely clear moving parts. No stick out beyond absolutely necessary. This is not a mini lathe. Thinking about it, small shaft, at center, Do I need any relief below the cutting edge? I can't change the angle of the cutter, might it help to grind a bit of angle into the top of the cutter?
Re: Lathe chatter Originally Posted by Willie B I'm not sure whether the grind shape was a factor, It appeared to be square, but I don't have 123 blocks, & any square I own is too big to fit in the space. I squared it by eye Winner winner chicken dinner! Award to MJD Yeah, you need a better way to square it up, by eye only works in horseshoes, unless you continue to adjust it until it cuts correctly. Another way is to square up the Aloris to the chuck face, if it will fit between the jaws. You need to make sure the toolholder is square to the work. If the cutoff tool is ground correctly and sharp it should peel off metal which will curl cleanly without chatter, even when fed by hand.
Re: Lathe chatter I'm not sure whether the grind shape was a factor, It appeared to be square, but I don't have 123 blocks, & any square I own is too big to fit in the space. I squared it by eye. There is zero run out in the shaft turning by hand, but there is a little motion in it when I lift with a 2x4 pry. I'd say .002 loose.
Re: Lathe chatter Originally Posted by idacal I think you said earlier that you have a couple of thousand play in your head stock bearings that will make parting almost impossible like you experianced I have to disagree, .002" runout isn't very bad at all, many lathes are worse than that. I could be wrong though, but I'd hate to think a lathe with .002" on the spindle would be almost impossible to use.
Re: Lathe chatter I think you said earlier that you have a couple of thousand play in your head stock bearings that will make parting almost impossible like you experianced, lots of broken cutoff blades and pour the oil to it may get a2ay with it sometimes then for no reason that i could see it would jam up and snap. i have when running my first lathe was use a course hacksaw while spinning the chuck It at least cut straight that way if i didnt need a faced cut
Re: Lathe chatter Also need to have a very rigid set up, and the shortest stick out of the cutting tool.
Re: Lathe chatter Originally Posted by M J D Your parting tool may not have been perfectly square. Parting can be tricky especially when you start getting deep in a cut. You also need to use LOTS of cutting oil. Yes, that would be another reason, I was figuring it was square, shouldn't figure that... Good to square it up with the chuck face using a 1-2-3 block, then tighten up the tool post. Use the Aloris for that if you can. Make sure the cut off tool is sharply ground also.
Re: Lathe chatter Your parting tool may not have been perfectly square. Parting can be tricky especially when you start getting deep in a cut. You also need to use LOTS of cutting oil.
Re: Lathe chatter I put a lot of effort into getting center. If I'm off it is by a few thousandths. I don't know the reason, but I don't believe center is it. I have two HSS cut off tools. One fits the aloris tool holder. The other fits the Lantern tool post. The height adjustment on the lantern is a cupped ring with a crescent shaped caul. moving the caul changes the height of the cutter.To my eye, I'm dead center of the center punch mark I spent considerable time getting right.
Re: Lathe chatter Originally Posted by Willie B The cut off was frightening, and the HSS parting tool chatters something awful. It's the tool height, you're not on center.
Re: Lathe chatter Originally Posted by TraditionalToolworks You can, but you will need a toolpost grinder. Funny thing is I mentioned above in this thread I had a toolpost grinder I would sell for $400. A guy contacted me on this forum and asked for pics. I gave him all the info, but he was in LA or FL. I told him it would cost about $60-$70 for shipping. No response. I put the toolpost grinder on craigslist for $500 and sold it the next morning. The guy was tickled pink to have found it, they list for about $3500 and it and the entire assembly was literally new, but the spindle was bought on Ebay. I took that money and bought myself a Primeweld 225. Just deepen the center drill and/or drill some clearance with another bit for the point and use this as-is. As long as it supports the end you'll be fine. Or wait for the live center you ordered, either will work. It is possible to cut a 60 degree using your compound, but other factors come into play and I think it best for you to use yours as-is or wait for the live center at this point. A lathe is like any other tool, even welding. You need to keep learning one thing at a time until you get proficient. I'm in the autumn of my years. I may not live long enough to learn from my mistakes. Each new lesson feels good, those that don't end in failure are best. I just now used the center rest to finish. I switched ends to cut to length, drill grease galleys, groove for the retainers, counter bore to protect the grease fitting, bore & tap. The cut off was frightening, and the HSS parting tool chatters something awful. Near final cut off, It broke in half, locked up. The lathe went into flat belt slip. I killed it, When I started it again run out was visible. I went through the process of centering all over again, and somehow it appears to be straight. The pin is finished except drilling two radial holes to meet the longitudinal grease galleys. Don't want to do those until the hoe is dismantled & I can get accurate measurements where bearing centers are.
Re: Lathe chatter Originally Posted by Willie B I've ordered a ball bearing center, but while I wait I'd like to proceed. Can I grind a new point on this? What are the odds I'll be able to drill out the stuff in the end of my pin? You can, but you will need a toolpost grinder. Funny thing is I mentioned above in this thread I had a toolpost grinder I would sell for $400. A guy contacted me on this forum and asked for pics. I gave him all the info, but he was in LA or FL. I told him it would cost about $60-$70 for shipping. No response. I put the toolpost grinder on craigslist for $500 and sold it the next morning. The guy was tickled pink to have found it, they list for about $3500 and it and the entire assembly was literally new, but the spindle was bought on Ebay. I took that money and bought myself a Primeweld 225. Just deepen the center drill and/or drill some clearance with another bit for the point and use this as-is. As long as it supports the end you'll be fine. Or wait for the live center you ordered, either will work. It is possible to cut a 60 degree using your compound, but other factors come into play and I think it best for you to use yours as-is or wait for the live center at this point. A lathe is like any other tool, even welding. You need to keep learning one thing at a time until you get proficient.
Forum Rules
