Reply to Thread

Re: Cold Saw

Originally Posted by SweetMK

I bought a diamond saw blade for concrete, and the 7 1/4" blade cut so well, I thought about getting the 10 1/4" saw and blade.
Like the 7" saw, which is rated at 15 amps, the 10" is also rated at 15 amps,,

(one saw is rated at 2600 watts, that is over 20 amps,, so we know the manufacturer is "taking advertising liberties,," )

The biggest complaints about the bigger saw was that if you pressed it hardly at all,
you had to let off the pressure, and let the saw speed up again.

with the smaller saw, I can get the saw into concrete full depth, and push pretty hard, the saw has that much power.

So, no 10 1/4" saw and blade for me,, at least for cutting concrete,, NOW, I WANT A GAS ENGINE SAW!!

Maybe a gas engine metal cutting saw would be the perfect answer??

I once did installations of energy efficiency upgrades in walk in coolers. It involved a lot of cutting concrete & masonry. No gasoline powered saws would be acceptable. I used a 10" diamond blade with a 9" Milwaukee grinder. I could cut only about 3" deep, so it wasn't perfect, but along with a big rotary hammer, I managed.

Re: Cold Saw

4-1/2” wheel works pretty good too.

(Just scoring here)

Re: Cold Saw

Originally Posted by G-ManBart

I'll let you do the math, but Evo's website lists the S380CPS as 1,450rpm and the R255MS at 2,600rpm...those are no-load speeds, so no idea what they are when actually cutting. I would expect the bigger blade would slow more under load, but that's just a guess.

I bought a diamond saw blade for concrete, and the 7 1/4" blade cut so well, I thought about getting the 10 1/4" saw and blade.
Like the 7" saw, which is rated at 15 amps, the 10" is also rated at 15 amps,,

(one saw is rated at 2600 watts, that is over 20 amps,, so we know the manufacturer is "taking advertising liberties,," )

The biggest complaints about the bigger saw was that if you pressed it hardly at all,
you had to let off the pressure, and let the saw speed up again.

with the smaller saw, I can get the saw into concrete full depth, and push pretty hard, the saw has that much power.

So, no 10 1/4" saw and blade for me,, at least for cutting concrete,, NOW, I WANT A GAS ENGINE SAW!!

Maybe a gas engine metal cutting saw would be the perfect answer??

Re: Cold Saw

Originally Posted by Oscar

An observation:

If you stick with the Evolution 10" 28-tooth blade, the circumferential speed in combination with the lower tooth-count leads to a slower speed, in terms of tooth-impacts per unit time, compared to a standard 14" 66- or 72-tooth blade. Raw blade RPM alone is not the sole determining factor, IMO.

A 14" 66-tooth blade will produce ~1,450 tooth impacts per second @ 1300 RPMs.
A 10" 28-tooth blade will produce ~1,150 tooth impacts per second @ 2500 RPMs. (Equivalent of a 14" 66-tooth blade spinning at 950 RPMs)

So even though the raw RPM is higher on the 10" saw, from the perspective of the part being cut, the tooth impact frequency would "feel" like a 14" 66-tooth blade spinning slower was cutting it.

A "more standard" 10" blade with 50-teeth, would produce the equivalent of a 14" 66-tooth blade ~2100 RPMs. That could probably be more limiting.

I'll let you do the math, but Evo's website lists the S380CPS as 1,450rpm and the R255MS at 2,600rpm...those are no-load speeds, so no idea what they are when actually cutting. I would expect the bigger blade would slow more under load, but that's just a guess.

Re: Cold Saw

Originally Posted by G-ManBart

You will be very limited in the thickness of steel you can cut with that...1/8" for tubing, angle, and 1/4" for plate. The blade RPM is simply too high for cutting heavier stock.

An observation:

If you stick with the Evolution 10" 28-tooth blade, the circumferential speed in combination with the lower tooth-count leads to a slower speed, in terms of tooth-impacts per unit time, compared to a standard 14" 66- or 72-tooth blade. Raw blade RPM alone is not the sole determining factor, IMO.

A 14" 66-tooth blade will produce ~1,450 tooth impacts per second @ 1300 RPMs.
A 10" 28-tooth blade will produce ~1,150 tooth impacts per second @ 2500 RPMs. (Equivalent of a 14" 66-tooth blade spinning at 950 RPMs)

So even though the raw RPM is higher on the 10" saw, from the perspective of the part being cut, the tooth impact frequency would "feel" like a 14" 66-tooth blade spinning slower was cutting it.

A "more standard" 10" blade with 50-teeth, would produce the equivalent of a 14" 66-tooth blade ~2100 RPMs. That could probably be more limiting.

Re: Cold Saw

Originally Posted by Continuum

Plus 1 on the Makita LC1230. Here is a trash project.

I will say this too. I treat this Makita with extra care. These blades will be destroyed quickly cutting hardened steel. And this is where abrasive cut technology really shines. Before I made these cuts, I did several file tests. Even so, they were just a tad harder than I’d like.

Bottom line, like Lis, both.

Regards

Re: Cold Saw

Originally Posted by Lis2323

Another vote for the Makita dry cut saw. [emoji481]

Plus 1 on the Makita LC1230. Here is a trash project. Dumbbell rack. The post-cut squareness is near perfect. I have mine on a cart so I can bring into play as needed. Plans for a integral feed roller for long support. Currently I use rollers off the pic screen.

Attachment 1731577

Attachment 1731578

Re: Cold Saw

I had a very pretty blue and gray Italian cold saw in my shop for ten years and used it rarely. All stainless applications. Thought it would reduce the dust of a chop saw and make more accurate cuts. Keeping sharp blades around was a PITA. Sounds like a dry saw is the way to go for steel.
My main cut-off tool now is a cheap Makita 4.5" grinder with .030 Pferd disk on it. Cuts faster than most anything on stainless. The Makita is the quietest 4.5 grinder I've ever used.

Re: Cold Saw

Originally Posted by G-ManBart

You will be very limited in the thickness of steel you can cut with that...1/8" for tubing, angle, and 1/4" for plate. The blade RPM is simply too high for cutting heavier stock.

Wow, thanks. I never noticed the R255SMS and the S380CPS has different RPM's. I noticed they had the same amps but never even thought of RPM. Thanks for heads up.

Re: Cold Saw

Originally Posted by Need Advice

Im thinking about getting the Evolution R255SMS+ instead of the Evolution S380CPS. My reason is that the R255SMS+ seems like it would be better for miter cuts. Also this saw can cut wood so it would come in handy if i ever needed to do miters on wood. If the saw doesn't cut steel the way i like i can always use it for wood. Im open to criticism however, so if anyone sees anything wrong with my idea please speak up, thank you.

You will be very limited in the thickness of steel you can cut with that...1/8" for tubing, angle, and 1/4" for plate. The blade RPM is simply too high for cutting heavier stock.

Re: Cold Saw

Something else to consider about the Evolution R255SMS+ is it can do plunge cuts as well as sliding cuts. I could see that coming in handy when cutting angle steel. Maybe.

Re: Cold Saw

The Evolution R255SMS+

https://youtu.be/jq-cPEJy-ts

Re: Cold Saw

Im thinking about getting the Evolution R255SMS+ instead of the Evolution S380CPS. My reason is that the R255SMS+ seems like it would be better for miter cuts. Also this saw can cut wood so it would come in handy if i ever needed to do miters on wood. If the saw doesn't cut steel the way i like i can always use it for wood. Im open to criticism however, so if anyone sees anything wrong with my idea please speak up, thank you.

Re: Cold Saw

Originally Posted by SweetMK

I did not see the "two ways to kill a blade",,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ??

I did not see your selection as to which is more accurate ,,,,,,,, ??

I probably mentally blocked reporting how to kill a blade! The first time I was making cuts to length on angle iron that is L-shaped rather than V, so unequal length sides. I have a set of rollers to the left of the saw set up to the proper height...roll the work into the saw, partially tighten the vise for alignment, then loosen a touch to be able to move the work, slide and measure for length, tighten the vise and make the cut. I tightened the vise, but possibly not enough. The unequal length stuff can be a bit tricky. I had it upside down, with the short section closer to me. At some point in the cut the angle iron rolled, pulled out of the vise and got thrown...it was violent! I think it was because the blade cut through the short section and then was only cutting on the long section, but almost cutting from below, so it lifted the work. I have since cut those facing the other direction with no problems.

The second time I don't recall all the details, but I got distracted, didn't tighten the vise and near the end of the cut the work jumped and the cutoff piece rotated backwards into the blade as best I can tell...making an interrupted cut which carbide hates.

The short version...make sure the work can't move!

I should have worded the section about accuracy more carefully. The Evolution is much more accurate. The cuts are true as long as you get the work secure. On the bandsaw it's easy to get blade drift even when things are done right, especially as the blade wears. I didn't notice any degradation in cut accuracy as the Evolution blade gets older.

Re: Cold Saw

Originally Posted by G-ManBart

I have found two ways to kill a blade on the Evo, but I can't blame the saw for that.



There is no comparison in how true the cuts are between the Evo and the Wellsaw and the larger the work, the bigger the difference is.

I did not see the "two ways to kill a blade",,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ??

I did not see your selection as to which is more accurate ,,,,,,,, ??

Re: Cold Saw

I have an Evolution S380CPS and it's pretty impressive. I also have a beautiful Wellsaw 613 (650lb bandsaw) which is a big step up from the light, imported bandsaws. The Evo makes true square cuts easily, the vise has preset mitre positions so you can cut repeatable angles time after time and it will cut far thicker material than the company claims. I do 90% of my cuts on the Evo now and use the bandsaw for tool steel and larger stock that won't fit in the Evo.

I have found two ways to kill a blade on the Evo, but I can't blame the saw for that. At one point I made several hundred cuts of 1" square solid mild steel on a blade before I messed up and killed the blade.....was keeping a log of every cut to see how long it would last. I've cut quite a few pieces of 2" round solid as well...no problem.

The one time I ruined a blade was a major mistake on my part and that sent a piece into the main casting and cracked it. I called Evolution, got a real person here in the U.S. within two minutes and five minutes later had a part ordered that showed up four days later. I can't recall exactly, but it was around $100 with shipping....I was thrilled at that level of support!

If my Evo was stolen I would buy another one immediately. It's loud, and the chip tray fills up quickly, but it makes great cuts that are repeatable and the blade life is great. I have a fresh Diablo blade on it now and I'm keeping a log of every cut....we'll see how long it lasts before getting dull. The absolute key is not to put down pressure on the handle...just let it cut with the weight of your hand, no more. The Evo blades are expensive, but really good. I tried the Diablo since it was about 1/3 less and so far I'm impressed enough I would get another.

There is no comparison in how true the cuts are between the Evo and the Wellsaw and the larger the work, the bigger the difference is. If my Wellsaw was stolen I'd give some thought to a replacement and wait for a really good deal to come around.

Re: Cold Saw

the Evolution S380CPS is the one I would get if I was in the market. I currently have a Rage 2 with the stamped steel base, and it works. Probably not as nice as the case-base saws, but it works.

Re: Cold Saw

Originally Posted by Lis2323

I "think" the larger (7x12) import saws are better than the cheap (4x6).

I had two and they worked fine.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's like anything, proper setup and adjustments along with using the tool properly will dictate the level of success. Unfortunately a lot of people don't understand that different materials, size , etc., dictate different blades no matter the saw.

Re: Cold Saw

Originally Posted by Willie B

My experience with dry saws is near zero. I have used cheap band saws. None I've used were name brand, only Grizzly & several identical Chinese saws, not good.

I "think" the larger (7x12) import saws are better than the cheap (4x6).

I had two and they worked fine.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Re: Cold Saw

All the different saws have good and bad, the drycut is good as a portable saw a cold saw not so much. The drycut is noisey the cold saw is quiet. Dry cut is in the $500 dollar range a good cold cut saw is a few thousand. Blades are sharpenable for either. for general fabrication in a small operation the drycut is a good choice. Easiest way to damage either blade is to not let the saw get up to speed before engaging the metal. I have and like the Steelmax S14 with a cast base, and they have an attachment for the vise for cutting pipe. V blocks like Morse makes, I made a set for the Steelmax are good for square tubing. Just my thoughts.

Re: Cold Saw

I have used both dry and cold saws... I like both, dry is affordable cold is not. Both make good cuts, both are true if set up right. I cannot afford a cold saw, but have the rage evolution 2 14 inch and love it.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Re: Cold Saw

My experience with dry saws is near zero. I have used cheap band saws. None I've used were name brand, only Grizzly & several identical Chinese saws, not good.

Re: Cold Saw

If my Jet band saw died today,, I would be looking for a replacement tomorrow,,



I think this saw could realistically cut anything up to 9X16" tube and up to 6X12" solid, I have cut close to those sizes,,

This pic shows four pieces of 3/4" thick bar being cut at the same time.



I think Facebook memorizes my interests, or something, but, every time I go to Facebook Marketplace, there are several reasonable priced bandsaws,, big ones, like mine.

This saw will cut 1/8" X 1" steel bar just as easily as the parts shown in the pics.

I have owned this one over 20 years, and bought it well used,, who knows how long it will run.
A $50 blade lasts me 2 to 3 months if I am cutting parts 3 to 4 hours constantly every day.
Now, I do not use it except for my personal fab work, I have replaced 2 blades since 2012.

The amazing thing is,, the blade cuts 100% perfectly, right up to the last cut,, then, BAM! the blade cuts crooked.
No partial wear-out like a mower blade, or something like that.
It is very unique,, thinking about how much cutting the saw can do, for so little cost.

The saw is so rigid, and accurate, you can clamp a part in the saw, and do cuts that mimic the type of cuts that normally a milling machine is required to do.
I have often made cuts like that.

I have various "fixtures" that I have built for the saw to assist in doing those type parts.
I have a 30 degree, and 60 degree adapter that drops into the vise,, and I can do all types of angle parts with those.

Re: Cold Saw

If you buy a dry cut, get one with a cast base instead of sheet metal or stamped. Also look at the vise, there are several saws with mediocre vises.


Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

Cold Saw

Another vote for the Makita dry cut saw. [emoji481]




However I will NEVER get rid of my 40 year old Makita abrasive saw….