Reply to Thread

Re: Getting my Miller 330 a/bp up n running having trouble... :(

Should be easy to check with a meter. Not very common but I've heard of the switches going bad.

Re: Getting my Miller 330 a/bp up n running having trouble... :(

I wouldn't replace the power switch until you verify with a meter that is doesn't function correctly.

Re: Getting my Miller 330 a/bp up n running having trouble... :(

Well I've had it for a while. I looked at the manual and it says to replace power switch when this happens. I thought I would ask on the forums since many people have these to find if there was a fuse I could replace before I started taking things apart and replacing parts.

If the only fuse to replace is the button fuse then that has been checked and it was ok. I know there are some in the back right next to the power panel. Didnt know if this would be the next best step instead of replacing the power switch.

Re: Getting my Miller 330 a/bp up n running having trouble... :(

Where did you get the machine from? It may have been sold because it died. I'm sure you checked but is the main power switch good?

Re: Getting my Miller 330 a/bp up n running having trouble... :(

Well I found some references that connected up a 230, 460, 575 machine and wired it that way and still no functionality. Still no response when I turn the switch to on position. Are there any further suggestions and what I could do next? Is there a fuse other than the one I checked that would need to be replaced?

Re: Getting my Miller 330 a/bp up n running having trouble... :(

Thank you for the reply. I dont see a plate anywhere on the machine. Does anyone have the jumper settings for the 230, 460, 575v machine. I can rewire it to check if that will work. For the 1980 manual that's found online the face matches the picture... I know that's not a certainty but its something.

Re: Getting my Miller 330 a/bp up n running having trouble... :(

Check the data plate and see what it lists for line volts the welder will operate on. This picture is for 200, 230, 460 volt machines.
230,460, 575 machines have different jumper placement. If your fan is not running, it is either not powered or it is bad.
When measuring line voltage, measure hot to hot and not to ground. On a 230/245 volt line you want to measure 230/245 volts.
At the line connection and the line switch. Also jumper to jumper on the reconnect panel.
With no fan some thing is open.

Re: Getting my Miller 330 a/bp up n running having trouble... :(

I have not been around the machine to take pics today. This is the connection figure I followed from the manual. I have used a multimeter to confirm power at L1 and L2. Read a bunch of threads and the ones talking about connecting up to power all used the same.

Re: Getting my Miller 330 a/bp up n running having trouble... :(

I'm curious how it's hooked up, got pics of the input connection area?

And yes to power washing. Just be careful and don't go crazy.

Re: Getting my Miller 330 a/bp up n running having trouble... :(

I have the same machine and that was the first thing I did when I got it....Took covers off and power washed every part I could get to. Mine has always (knock on wood) worked flawlessly.
Make sure you disconnect it from power first and make sure it dries completely before you reconnect power.
I wish I could help with trouble shooting, there are others on here that will be able to help you.

Getting my Miller 330 a/bp up n running having trouble... :(

Hello all, picked up an old Miller 330 a/bp and wanted to get started tig welding. Complete newbie with tig but hear great things about this welder and its capability.

Having issues right off the bat. Connected everything according to the manual and I am getting no power at all. Fan does not kick on not even mentioning the welding part... so I have a machine getting power and nothing that works. Looked at the troubleshooting in the manual and checked the Primary Overload Protection CB1 and reset it. Nothing happens. Checked fuse F2 (mine is on lower half of machine inside the panel) for continuity with multimeter and it tested good. Next step is to check S1 for bad connection, going to do that later as I have been reading posts all night trying to find possible solutions instead of replacing parts.

Are there any other fuses on the machine that would be indicative of no power? I know if I remove the back panel there are some fuses.

BTW i have to ask... are the moderators serious about splashing some mean green on the internals and spray washing at the car wash to get the inside spic and span? If I'm gonna troubleshoot and remove the panels i might just go ahead and do that to get all the dust off. I used compressed air initially but it still very dusty inside.