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Re: Esab

They seem to run in cycles. saw a bunch of 900s then it was 1300s and 1600s.
Then don't see any for months. Just did two 1300s that had a bad power pcb.
would not turn on the pilot arc IGBT during power up. so the unit displayed a torch pip fault. They fire the IGBT real fast to check and see if the consumables are in place and they can pass a little current and open with a blast of air, With one unit there was something wrong with the control pcb also. I know some models in each line are being dropped in favor of a more poplar model in the other line. Will know more when the new ESAB /victor school comes to California.

Re: Esab

Originally Posted by ccawgc

Recommend merging this thread with the sponsored one. That way all ESAB questions are in one place.

I was wondering if the 900 model has been as problematic as the 1300-1600. I had a 1600. threw a code on the first one.. (I think was a early throw a code without air hooked up) Sent a second one, and it lasted about 1.5 years, then Esab replaced that one because there was no board available at that time.. The last one worked perfect, and was a great cnc cutter.. Sold it the last month of warranty, and it's been running fine sinse. The machines cut great, and have consumables that last a very long time.. I know everything esab is Victor now, but I would not mind picking up a 900 for backup to my Victor.. I hope Esab, and Victor can come up with a reliable machine that cuts like the Powercut on cnc use..

Re: Esab

Recommend merging this thread with the sponsored one. That way all ESAB questions are in one place.

Re: Esab

Sorry, did not see this. Most of the post are now in the sponsored room.
Sw1 on the power pcb. large pcb on your left. Change both switches in the red block.
Turn on and let plasma reset, turn back off and place switches back where found.
Now make sure torch is assembled right and air is connected and turned on.
If you still get an error 13 your unit may need a plot arc igbt or control pcb or a power pcb.
Might need both control and power. Just did two that needed both under warranty.
You can always send a PM to get a faster response.

Re: Esab

Originally Posted by ccawgc

Be careful when removing the cover on the power cut 1600. There is a screen glued to the inside of the cover. They do come loose. I have had to glue them back on.
Just don't try to power them up with out air connected or consumables removed from the torch. They will display an error 13 and the older units will lock up. You have to remove the cover and switch a switch on the power pcb on power up unit wait a minute then turn off. set switch back and put cover back on. The current made machines they fixed that and all you have to do is power down then back on.
Very pricey to fix.

Hi, new to this forums, i´m looking for the answer for the error code 13 in the esab powercut 1300, witch switch is the one to be switched? i only fuond sw1 in the pcb... is that the one?

Re: Esab

I have a feeling the low end will be a little hot sometimes. Just from running a 173/203 machine. I think I would have to get one pretty cheap, because it really is not anything close to the quality of the MM-250.. I personalty would look for a Migmaster 250 for bodywork or heavy plate..

Re: Esab

Hello to all of you. I just acquired a ESAB 253 migmaster. I saw the date 2005 somewhere on it and assume it is that vintage. The seller told me that is similar to the 250 but has a lower duty cycle. I have a Lincoln Mig Pak 10 and know very little about the ESAB. Google does not get me much info on the 253. I plan on restoring a cj7 and will be doing a lot of sheet metal work. The Mig Pak 10 is Flux core with 9mm wire and blows holes in tin quite easily. I was hoping that the ESAB with 25/75 gas and .023 wire would be better to learn on. Could someone kindly tell me a little about the ESAB 253 or point me in the right direction. THANKS

Re: Esab

haven't posted here in awhile. I have a question about my Multimaster 260.

my digital readout keeps showing all kinds of goofy numbers and some are - nmbrs. triedto do some TIG stuff today and it seamed to work ok at first then it wouldn't even strike a arc even on the ground clamp. it worked ok a few months ago. I had this problem before and just shut it off and went in the house. well today when it acted up I just started turning the voltage and wire feed knobs to see what would happen and they did nothing when trying to change settings and had crazy nmbrs on the readout?

any ideas. the shop that does mobile work chrgs $95 a hr to look at them. waiting to hear back from them to see if the chrgs will go towards parts if they repair.

Re: Esab

what model wire feeder is the diagram for?
Component level diagrams for pc boards are not normally published.
Service shops can some times get them after the machine has been out for a while.

Re: Esab

Hello Everyone. I would ask you to send me electric scheme for thyristor regulator M8 (A10 MED30 Standarad)
Attached is a picture. Thanks

Attachment 718381Attachment 718391

Re: Esab

You have three choices, try to have the TA 24 panel sent in to ESAB for repair or replacement.
Just buy a new panel. There might be a factory reset, but didn't find one in the manual. You will have to call ESAB for that. And 3 choice is to find a service shop that has the ESAT tool so a computer can be plugged into your unit and get it tested. see what pcbs are talking.
Might need the ESAT to cause a reset. I do know you need it to update the software.
The ESAT system is sold to service shops for over $700.00.
I think I would start with a call to ESAB and ask them what they think. Then ASK for the name of a close shop with the ESAT system. Good luck.

Re: Esab tig 3000i TA24 DC/AC Control panel:

Hello
Please help, I am fixing Tig 3000i TA24 DC/AC but the following keys are not responding,Pushbutton for TIG/MMA, AC/DC,HF start/LiftArc & 2-stroke/4-stroke.
All other control panel pushbutton works. I think it may be software problem but I need help on the way forward. Thanks

Re: Esab

I recently got an ESAB MigMaster 250...the seller was an older Gent, and very nice. He kept saying the machine was "like new"...only 8 years old, etc...I paid more than I wanted to ($1350) but it came with a spoolgun too. I was kind of thinking I should have gotten a brand new Millermatic 211 and was having buyer's remorse.....

After getting it home and doing some inspection/research, I found it to be closer to 15 years old, and the MT-200 gun was in disrepair. After a good blowing out with compressed air, and wiping down with the exterior it looked pretty dang good. I found that it actually takes tweco #11 tips, so after buying those and a few other parts, I was in business.

It welds very nicely, and now I know why these are some of the most reputable MIG welders ever made. Moral of the story is....don't be afraid of ESAB, at least the better known models....I have been quite happy with mine, and it can give anything in Red or Blue a run for its money.

EDIT: Just saw he is offering that welder at OBO pricing....in that case you might be able to get it a few hundred cheaper...if you could get it closer to $2200, that would be a good deal...Red/Blue AC/DC TIGs similarly equipped in that condition will be close to $3K.

Re: Esab

Thanks,
not really looking to buy right now but I will be in the market for a tig soon. The Esab caught my eye while browsing CL
like you said, it looks very clean and taken care of.

I will probably end up with a blue one when the time comes.

Re: Esab

Looks like a good deal, well-equipped and cared for. If you're planning on spending that kind of money I would seriously consider buying something in Red or Blue. I am not against ESAB at all, have owned 2 machines and had great experiences....that's just an awful lot of money for something that is no longer supported, etc.

I will say that 252's come up all the time on Ebay and CL....there is a surplus of parts out there. And, because L-Tec (and Airco?) machines are identical you have an even greater pool to choose from.

It's not a bad buy, just make sure you can't find a deal on an AC/DC Tig from the more popular makers...you will be able to resell the machine quite easily. Lasly, be sure you can feed this beast the power it wants...IIRC this is a 65A machine...though you'll probably never top out with it.

Re: Esab

Originally Posted by John T

Speaking of ESAB,

Whats your opinion on this Heliarc 252?

I have seen them for less, but not with as many options... cooler/torches etc.

Is this a decent machine?

(hope the link works, I couldn't save the pics from ebay)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tchlink:top:en

I had two, but with more options (Pulse, and Meter) great standard type tig machine. You probably will never hear a bad work from anybody that has owned one.. I would of keep my last one, but I included in a package deal with another welding machine I sold. They are every bit as nice as any Syncrowave 250 or Lincoln 275. Reliable, and way cheaper to fix then the other two if you have a board issue.. Black face is the last model Esab made..

Re: Esab

Speaking of ESAB,

Whats your opinion on this Heliarc 252?

I have seen them for less, but not with as many options... cooler/torches etc.

Is this a decent machine?

(hope the link works, I couldn't save the pics from ebay)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tchlink:top:en

Re: Esab

I have both a Migmaster 250 (bought new) and the 450 which has a Digimig drive. The 250 is delightful to use and the simpler controls are a bit easier to get familiar with, but the 450 doesn't sacrifice anything and it's nice having more options. My machine shop buds have used MigMaster 250s hard for many years with few problems and none not due to heavy use. That's one reason I bought mine. I didn't need the 450 but it was a good deal and I hate pushing welders if I can leave one in place.

I like separate feeders as they are faster to clear a birdsnest and I can put them where I like. (I'm considering a tray in my container door so I can work indoors or outside with the Digimig.) The 450 is not quieter as the case is packed tightly and requires a fan with some balls. An experienced local welder repair tech says he'd seen a few overheat due to dirt and long industrial duty cycles, but the one I got was neat as a pin internally and showed no abuse. Look inside with a bright light when inspecting, and pop the cover if you can.

If I had to choose one it would be the 450 for versatility. I also use it with my Hobart suitcase feeder, though the 250 would work with that.

The 250 has a spoolgun hookup. I haven't used my spoolgun yet but the aforementioned machinist buds give theirs a workout.

Re: Esab

Thanks for the reply ccawgc. Seems like you probably can't really have too much welder. If the 450i welds well and wasn't loaded with reliability issues, I'm leaning that way. Probably be quieter as well.

Re: Esab

If you go to ESABNA.com you should be able to down load the manuals for both welders.
Both are good welding machines. The migmaster is a light industrial / home machine.
the svi 450i is an industrial machine. runs on single or three phase power. And yes it is an inverter. send me a PM if you want more information.

L-tec mig advice: mm250 vs 450i

Hi all. I've gotten a lot of good information from this site but never posted before. I have a great dilemma. I'm moving and setting up my own shop but I thought to buy some needed stuff before I leave the larger market I'm in right now. I've been sharing space and I need to get my own mig. Cheap SOB that I am, looking for lesser known brands and better prices found me two machines both l-tec: a migmaster 250, which I'm sure is a good machine, and a svi 450i with a 4HD drive. Now just guessing, the 450 is more machine, but that "i" makes me think this is a pretty early inverter machine since Esab bought L-Tec in the mid 90's I think. Anybody know how they work out and if there were major issues?
I don't really need the tig/stick function since I have a Heliarc 252. I prefer the transformer based tig, but I'm not sure I care much about the mig. If the 450i is a decent machine it might make it to a job site once in a while, but it would be a shop mig machine 90% of the time. Mostly I want a quality machine. The 250 is enough machine for me, (I'm most accustomed to a Millermatic 250-252) the question is could I get more machine capacity without sacrificing function or durability with the 450i.
Anyone have experience with the 450i? Compared to the Migmaaster?
Thanks a bunch.

I stumbledb across a great source for 3phase 460v. My TA predator welder/gen. It puts out 10 Kw @100% duty cycle. On 3phase. Plus its CC CV... runs a 20hp honda gas engine...

Re: Esab

Lots of folks run phase converters for serious welding machines. Practical Machinist and Shop Floor Talk have some threads on them.

I want to build an RPC with enough gonads to run my Linde/Union Carbide Vl-450 SS at max, not that I'll need to. I just hate not having max power available if I get a large compressor etc and that will make a good baseline.

Re: Esab

Yep, I just completed a phase converter for other stuff (mill, etc.) but it only has a 7.5 HP idler motor. Perfect for the machinery I am likely to run, but I think for a welder you'd need something on the order of 20 HP and probably some way to limit the major inrush of current. Could get expensive....but it might open a lot of doors in terms of the many, MANY 3 phase welders I see going for peanuts.

Re: Esab

I'd keep the ESAB. I'm keeping mine even though I also have a Migmaster 250.

It works fine for stick and DC TIG as well as MIG. I have mine inside an ISO container and set it as needed, then connect my leads (they are on quick-disconnects) to a feedthrough on my wall so I can also use it outdoors.

When I MIG outdoors I use a remote feeder (Hobart Hefty) and use the ESAB feeder to control power settings. ESAB feeder speed is set to zero and I jumper the MIG gun trigger lead. (The welding power lead is NOT connected to the feeder when I do this.) The Hobart gets da juice and the ESAB sits protected inside.

Beats pushing a conventional MIG around and I can daisy-chain my welding leads to get whatever distance I want.

I haven't fully explored what my ESAB will do since I'm not a commercial welder, but I've never cried myself to sleep over buying equipment which was better than I needed!

I'll eventually build a phase converter for other equipment and could then run the ESAB at full power if desired. You can't "turn on amps you don't have".

Enjoy your machine.