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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 03-01-2023
    robson1015

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Looks like 'top shelf' work to me - thanks for posting...
  • 03-01-2023
    Boostinjdm

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Dump trailer update. Just replaced the battery again. I think this is #4 since the trailer was completed in 2009. Not great life, not bad either. Since I now have 3D printers, I also printed a TPU seal for the control box. This works so much better than the foam I had there. A few misc TPU grommets, and new terminal covers for the winch since the rubber ones rotted away. Repaired the antenna wires also. Shortened to correct length and used shrink tube on the first 14", split loom on the rest inside the box. The Factory sheath had split. A few months back I straightened the jack that I bent shortly after building the trailer. Drove off with the safety chains still connected. It bothered me for years. Now I can sleep better that it's straight again.
  • 09-22-2020
    Boostinjdm

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Lights replaced and drain holes drilled. I ended up just desoldering the lights and soldering in new pigtails. Doubled up shrink tubes kept the connections as clean as the day I did them. 8 5/16" holes for draining. I bet I got 3 gallons of water out of the frame. I wouldn't be surprised if it was closer to 4. The front light boxes were the worst. That's were it has been dripping from. Had to take a break after drilling the pilot hole to let them drain.
  • 09-20-2020
    Boostinjdm

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Dump trailer update. Ran it over 400 miles in the past few days. Had my first light go bad. One of the 3 center lights. Last one in the string. Only lights about half as bright as it should. Definitely a light failure and not wiring. I think the cause was ice over the winter in the light. I've had the trailer in my garage most of this year and it has been dripping water since the thaw. Popped the lights out and had a nice puddle.

    Now I'm replacing all 3 clearance lights and adding some drain holes. Almost 11 years without a light failure is doing pretty good in my book.
  • 11-15-2018
    Casper van Niekerk

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Quote Originally Posted by Boostinjdm View Post
    1/8".
    TX Boost
  • 11-12-2018
    Boostinjdm

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    1/8".
  • 11-12-2018
    Casper van Niekerk

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Quote Originally Posted by Boostinjdm View Post
    Ok, a little progress. Not much though, I kinda slow.....
    Got both fenders and light boxes welded up and ground smooth (forgot pics). Got rear hitch installed (also forgot pics). Got tongue enclosed and started on hydraulic tank. Trying to fit 10 lbs of **** in a 5 lb bag, or so the saying goes. Still have to finish tank and figure out my mounting for wireless box for winch and dump, and switch box for the on trailer controls. I plan on having toggle switches mounted on the tongue cover to control and disable both the winch (yet to be pictured) and the pump for dumping. I also plan to have a wireless remote for loading with the winch by myself, or dumping from the cab (reason for disable switch, don't want to catch interference and start dumping while going down the highway). Also need to figure out mount for circuit breaker. Heres some pics to tide ya over.
    Hi B, nice work. what is checker plate thickness of mudguards?
  • 06-01-2018
    VPT

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Not that it matters much for a car or dump trailer but on my camper trailer I used bias ply tires. Reason is if they blow out they don't tear half the trailer off.
  • 06-01-2018
    Boostinjdm

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Welp, dump trailer needed some new tires. Was starting to weather check bad enough I could see cords. So I searched high and low for the best deal.

    Ended up with Carlisle Radial Trail HD in 205/75-R15 LRD 8ply. Bit of an upgrade going from bias to radial, off brand to name brand, and 6ply to 8ply. Walmart.com beat everybody out at about $58 each after tax. Beat everybody local by $25-50 PER TIRE. Delivered to the store for pick up in 2 days and I mounted them myself manually. Homemade bead breaker and a few spoons made it pretty easy.

    I think I did good.
  • 05-31-2017
    VPT

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Those look beefy enough for trucks. Look about the same build as the ramps on my last trailer and I loaded all kinds of trucks and even a mini excavator with them.
  • 05-30-2017
    Boostinjdm

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    I've been asked a few times about my ramps. I can never seem to find pics even though I swear I have them posted somewhere.

    Sides are 2" channel. Rungs are 1-1/4 x 1-1/4" x 3/16 angle iron. Rungs are 10" long, making overall width of ramps 12". The hook plate on the trailer end is 3/16" thick. These were designed to be made from 1 length of channel and 1 length of angle IIRC. Ramps have a finished length of 61" tip to tip.

    I don't know what they should be rated for, but they cover my needs well. I can tell you that an 8000lb Bobcat S250 will bend but not buckle them. The guy I sold my old trailer to did that even after I told him he would be overloaded. My 6000lb forklift bent them even though I added 2" x 10" planks on top. I have loaded several cars and pickups (not 1 tons) without issue. They currently have a slight bow to them that I need to press out. Maybe 1/4" dip in the center.

    So, if you are going to be loading full size trucks regularly, or things over about 4000lbs, you should probably go a bit beefier.
  • 09-19-2015
    Sandy

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    License plates on trailers are always a pain. They just never seem to 'fit in'..
  • 09-18-2015
    John T

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Looks great Jim.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 09-18-2015
    Boostinjdm

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Finally made a decision on the plate mounting so I could use the trailer yesterday. I don't like it, but I guess it will have to do. Bracket is stainless and there is about 7" of ground clearance under the plate. About the same as the axles.

    It even got approved by the local wildlife.
  • 04-27-2015
    farmersamm

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    So all that pizzin and moanin about the width was for nuthin?????????????????????????
  • 04-27-2015
    Boostinjdm

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Got the trailer inspected this morning. Only two minor issues.

    #1. They didn't tell me I had to provide a scale ticket. I had to stop at 3 places before somebody would let me drop the trailer on their scale. Inspector was nice enough to hang around and wait.
    #2. I don't know where to put the license plate. I designed it for a small one because that's what all my trailers have had in the past. I guess having a title means you get a big plate.

    Notable mention.
    He wanted an exact list of materials. I told him that I literally bought the material by the truck load and I don't know how much of it ended up in the trailer. He said he'd have to use the receipt total for the truckload. Meh, that's fine. I bought the stuff at such a heavy discount I still came out ahead.
  • 04-17-2015
    MinnesotaDave

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Quote Originally Posted by Boostinjdm View Post
    Actually no. 10k coupler and ball mount. Those would be easy to upgrade if I need to though. Remember, I designed this as a 7k trailer. So the 10k coupler was overkill at the time.
    ..
    I always intend to not overload them too
  • 04-17-2015
    Dualie

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    as for axles even with my BIG trucks, i always spec'd way heavier than i needed then ran them soft and never thought twice about them. My Heavy haul kenworth had 52K axles even though my permit weights in CA were only good for 48,750 i could put 20,000lbs on the front axle and it was spec'ed as 22k axle with dual stearing boxes. never gave me a lick of problems.

    Now my boom truck with a 23,000 lb single drive with 22,750lbs on it all day every day, is on its third center section in 70,000 miles.
  • 04-17-2015
    Boostinjdm

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Quote Originally Posted by farmersamm View Post
    Actually, to be technical , you can carry more than 8,000. Don't forget the tongue transfer rate.

    This has been a constant source of hindsight for me. Axle capacity.

    At the back of my pea brain, I still wonder if I should have gone with heavier axles. It was tempting at the time.

    Just that little bit of insurance ya know. I really don't want to pull 10K with the 1 ton, but I'd like a few pounds of insurance.

    I picked up a "parts" truck, and had to verify the empty weight of the stupid thing before I made the commitment. 1995 F-150, in the particular configuration I looked at, weighs 4400-4600lbs. So good to go with my 7K trailer..........but barely (my empty weight is same as yours, 2400lbs)

    But, like anybody else, I'd always be tempted to put the max weight on, and I really don't want to put that much on my old trucks. They're getting tired, and I've always been able to keep trucks a LONG time because I baby them.

    And, as I'm sure you've experienced, bumper pulls just don't handle higher weights as well as goosenecks. They pull a bit harder, load a bit weirder, and definitely don't handle as well. Add to this, the restricted jackknife ability of the bumper pull in a tight situation.

    You got a beauty there, and I hope it serves you well.
    This is one of the major reasons I stepped up to 5200 lb axles. What good is a vehicle sized trailer if it won't handle the weight of a vehicle.

    Quote Originally Posted by MinnesotaDave View Post
    So, with 15% transferred to the hitch:

    x - 0.15x = 8000
    0.85x = 8000
    x = 9412 lbs

    So load up 9412 lbs properly distributed

    .....in theory....
    Actually no. 10k coupler and ball mount. Those would be easy to upgrade if I need to though. Remember, I designed this as a 7k trailer. So the 10k coupler was overkill at the time.

    I picked up my last marker light today (was one short). Parts stores complain about people ordering over the internet or shopping somewhere else. They don't have room to bitch.
    I bought all the other markers at the local farm store. They were $6.49+ tax. Internet wanted about $8. Parts store was $15 and some change out the door for 1 marker light. Guess where I won't be going for lights in the future. Ran into the same thing with the battery for the break away box. $13 and some change shipped to my door off the internet. $33+ tax at the parts store. Shipping was quick...
  • 04-17-2015
    MinnesotaDave

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Quote Originally Posted by farmersamm View Post
    Actually, to be technical , you can carry more than 8,000. Don't forget the tongue transfer rate.
    So, with 15% transferred to the hitch:

    x - 0.15x = 8000
    0.85x = 8000
    x = 9412 lbs

    So load up 9412 lbs properly distributed

    .....in theory....
  • 04-17-2015
    farmersamm

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Actually, to be technical , you can carry more than 8,000. Don't forget the tongue transfer rate.

    This has been a constant source of hindsight for me. Axle capacity.

    At the back of my pea brain, I still wonder if I should have gone with heavier axles. It was tempting at the time.

    Just that little bit of insurance ya know. I really don't want to pull 10K with the 1 ton, but I'd like a few pounds of insurance.

    I picked up a "parts" truck, and had to verify the empty weight of the stupid thing before I made the commitment. 1995 F-150, in the particular configuration I looked at, weighs 4400-4600lbs. So good to go with my 7K trailer..........but barely (my empty weight is same as yours, 2400lbs)

    But, like anybody else, I'd always be tempted to put the max weight on, and I really don't want to put that much on my old trucks. They're getting tired, and I've always been able to keep trucks a LONG time because I baby them.

    And, as I'm sure you've experienced, bumper pulls just don't handle higher weights as well as goosenecks. They pull a bit harder, load a bit weirder, and definitely don't handle as well. Add to this, the restricted jackknife ability of the bumper pull in a tight situation.

    You got a beauty there, and I hope it serves you well.
  • 04-16-2015
    Boostinjdm

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    I was just thinking... When I weighed the truck, I didn't have the cushioned ball mount or pin in. I bet that weighs about 20 lbs.

    So my trailer comes in at exactly 2400 lbs like I thought it would.

    10,400 worth of axles.
    -2400 trailer
    = 8,000 payload just like I wanted.

    So is today my day to be lucky, or good?
  • 04-16-2015
    DoubleAA

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    amazing quality work..
  • 04-16-2015
    Boostinjdm

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Trailer weighs 2420 LBS empty.
  • 04-10-2015
    Boostinjdm

    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Quote Originally Posted by farmersamm View Post
    I've paid pretty close attention to 102 wide trailers I see around here, and they're all, and I mean ALL, overwidth. I think you're in the clear.

    One quick question, (because I'm too lazy to read back over the thread) Did you cold bend, or hot bend, the tongue where it goes under the frame?
    Neither. Top tube butts into the side frame rail. Bottom tube is mitered underneath. I did that so the joints were staggered a bit. Same design as the dump trailer. You can kind of make it out in the pics of the dump trailer on page 1 and 2.
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