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Re: weld repair Photobucket sucks my nuts. Use www.imageshack.us. Never once had a problem with imageshack.us but I can't count how many times a day I get the "photobucket image not found" error.
Re: weld repair
Re: weld repair I put them on photobucket, I'll try it again later.
Re: weld repair I see no X's. Did you try to link them from your hard drive? Because that won't work. If you tried to use imageshack, or photobucket, then you need to make the pictures public. Or that won't work either. Or you can just host them on weldingweb.........
Re: weld repair Red X.
Re: weld repair Can anybody else see them besides me?
Re: weld repair I don't see any pictures.
Re: weld repair I repaired it yesterday, someone who goes by birdhunter1 left the rod can open on my 7018's so I used 6011's on it. These are not the prettiest and my camera batteries died so i only got a few pics to post: Root pass on one side, the camera angle sucks but the weld looks better in person than this picture: This is one the back side that I had at first not thought about doing but Hammack talkd me into it, aside from that one pinhole hole it looks pretty good: What caused the pinhole right in the middle, it seems to just be a surface spot as I used a pick to try and get in there but it did not seem very deep? I was keeping the puddle as uniform as possible, could it have been a bit of slag left from the pass underneath it? I love my air powered die grinders but they don't make fast work of grinding old welds off, most of my time was spent with them. I wish I could have got my 4 1/2" in there but it was too big to get near any of it. Getting this thing off the tractor wasn't hard, getting it back on was a B####.
Re: weld repair Originally Posted by WelderBoy Well, that wouldn't be the center of the weld, but the backside of the weld. Once again, I don't know the answer. But I would like to know because I will be doing welding in the field and will want to do it the right way the first time. You guys bridge open roots with 7018? If so, do you build up on each edge until they are close enough to run a pass across? Or do you bridge it on one end and weave it to fill it up as you go? Well I never really meant as in the exact center of the weld rather the backside at the root. As far as open roots, yea I bridge them all the time with a 7018. it depends on the joint but I usually try to leave a gap the size of the rod I am using and it bridges quite easily. Start the puddle weave over and bridge it and then weave up the joint watching the sides tie in. Take a look at the (up vs. Down) thread I did awhile back. left a 3/32 gap on all of those and ran 7018 no problem. Just my opinion, but if you are going to be making a living in the field, especially in the repair section then a 7018 is your best bet all the way around. unless other precedures are called for.
Re: weld repair Originally Posted by Hammack_Welding As far as a crack starting deep in the center of a weld goes, I always thought that is where they would originate especially if you did not achieve full penetration. Well, that wouldn't be the center of the weld, but the backside of the weld. Once again, I don't know the answer. But I would like to know because I will be doing welding in the field and will want to do it the right way the first time. You guys bridge open roots with 7018? If so, do you build up on each edge until they are close enough to run a pass across? Or do you bridge it on one end and weave it to fill it up as you go?
Re: weld repair 7018 usually has better mechanical and impact numbers, IIRC.
Re: weld repair 7018 is more forgiving. 6010 is more brittle. With good prep you can get a perfect root with 7018.
Re: weld repair WelderBoy, I honestly don't know. I have never had any training or school as far as welding or metals etc... I could be totally wrong, but go off of what I have learned from my own personal experience. I honestly would like to hear what a weld engineer would have to say on the topic. as far as a 7018, I just pretty much know that it is a better choice when you need something resistant to cracking. As far as a crack starting deep in the center of a weld goes, I always thought that is where they would originate especially if you did not achieve full penetration. I guess it would depend more on how the forces were applied to the weld as to where a failure would start.
Re: weld repair Hammack, Although I usually gouge the 6010 out of the back after I weld it when possible, sometimes I don't. Whether it not be possible, or if the engineers don't want it. We use it at work all day for open roots on everything from crane mounts, to seams in the hull of a ship, to top plate handrail. I don't know why an engineer would call for it on a huge crane mount if it could have flaws like that. I believe your story, don't get me wrong. And your post has got me thinking hard about whether I want to leave any 6010 in a structural weld in the future when doing work for my own business. The thing I don't understand is that most steel is rated at around 35,000-45,000psi tensile strength. I see no reason why 7018 would have an advantage in the root over 6010. Is it more ductile? 6010 does seem to be more brittle and I know 7018 is very flexible. But I've never heard of a crack starting from deep in the center of a weld. I know a weld engineer is going to reply and put me on my *** on this subject. So let me have it!
Re: weld repair Originally Posted by WelderBoy Why is that? WelderBoy, I personally feel it is stronger. A 6011/6010 is great for an open root on pipe. On Equipment, the majority of the welds you will make need a low hydrogen rod for the crack resistance. I just never felt that running a "weaker" rod as a basis for a weld that needs every ounce of strength it can get as the best course of action. If you are doing repair work then you don't need the extra penetration of a cellulose rod. You just take a little longer on prep whether it's gouging or beveling to get the 100% penetration you need. When I was starting out, an oldtimer was welding Hydraulic line on a cotton bale press for the cotton gin my dad ran years ago. I asked him why he didn't use a 6010 root, and he replied with "because of the constant vibration, and jarring these joints will take they need to be 7018 through out to keep them from cracking. If I run 6010 as the root, or first layer, and it cracks what do you think is going to happen to the passes above it." Well it made sense. That guy gave me some pointers, and I practiced on the scrap as he worked, and he even let me weld two joints with Dad's permission. One I rooted with a 6010 and filled and capped with a 7018, and the other I ran 7018 all the way just like he showed me. I had to reweld the joint I rooted with the 6010 a couple years later. The 7018 joint was still solid when they replaced the press nearly ten years later. That situation kind of stuck with me........
Re: weld repair Great stuff here I just want to find the "M" button on my digital camera so I can post pics like that. Seriously good stuff on the 6013 and 7018 pros and cons and everything else. Not too long ago I had almost the same repair on a blue color tractor also. I GMAWed it w/ spray xfer ...............and again wish I could have posted pics of them. I believe this particular guy was being too rough on his equipment because he kept bringing his stuff back for more welding with other areas broke. Look forward to the results.
Re: weld repair It is just stronger that way. If you can get to both sides of cracks and must use 6011, back gouge the 6011 bead out when you do the other side. It will end up being a better weldment that way. That is for most equipment welds, whether arms, buckets, whatever you have that takes a beating. On a non-beat-upon weld, leave it like it is and it will be fine.
Re: weld repair Originally Posted by Hammack_Welding I personally am not much on running a 6011/6010 root in front of a 7018 on equipment. I prefer to run a 7018 through out. Why is that?
Re: weld repair First thing you need to do is get ALL of that old crap out of there be it you use a torch or grinder. Get it all cleaned up to a good joint then you can tell what you need to do. If it means cutting a good weld and having to reweld it to get it cleaned up, then so be it. If you have any 7018AC then run it around 135 amps and weld it all back up. A 6013 will also work, but the 7018AC would be better. I personally am not much on running a 6011/6010 root in front of a 7018 on equipment. I prefer to run a 7018 through out. ~Jackson
Re: weld repair 10-4, thanks guys! Welderboy, you gave the best advice.. "it's your equipment, when do you want to fix it again?" It may be a few days before I get to it but I will post follow up pics.
Re: weld repair Originally Posted by Birdhunter1 So you guys think a 6013 will work? Yes. That steel is probably rated at around 40,000psi tensile strength. 6013 if done properly exceeds 60,000psi tensile strength and is ductile. It'll be plenty strong.
Re: weld repair This exact same support on the front part of this is also on the backside (towards rear of tractor). The back part (towards rear of tractor is a factory weld in good shape still, the only one that broke is this one on the front side. When I said the backside in the earlier post I meant under the tractors transmission. Looking at the frame on tis again it won't be as hard to take off as I originally thought, I thought te entire frame was one piece but this section unblots from the rest of it so it wll come off and get repaired. So you guys think a 6013 will work?
Re: weld repair Birdhunter, I'd also add a rectangle gusset behind the vertical plate, to help keep the pipe mount from twisting backward. You could cut it to end in front of the rear mounting bolt. Lay it in at an angle pointing down toward the tractor. The outside edge right behind the pipe mount. Good luck Larry
Re: weld repair Since it's your equipment it's an easy call. Besides, you said the weld on the back is still good and the outside weld is what takes all the pressure on those anyway... Air arc sure woulda been nice though...lol.
Re: weld repair Originally Posted by Birdhunter1 I had a feeling somebody would say that, that thing is a PITA to get on and off. It's your equipment, you make the call. You asked for our advice, I think. It ain't always easy, but do need it to break again before you take it apart and do it the right way?
Re: weld repair If all you have is AC, 6013 may be easier. It will be strong enough and probably a better weld than if you use 7018 on AC. At least you can take the piece off and repair it on the bench.. 1/8 6013 if you use it, 115 amps, 7018 maybe 120 to 130 amps. I can't be sure on AC. David We want to see pics when its done.
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