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Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

I had the same problem with my MM255. A new liner solved my problems. But mine was tweaked on the other end.

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

Originally Posted by BrooklynBravest

It seems to be I’ll have to give it another look though.

I’m not having issues since changing the contact tip i just feel like it shouldn’t even have been able to stop it.

I had a similar wire feed problem with a new mm255. I spent a good deal of time adjusting rollers, tension, etc. Turned out that during manufacturing / assembly the lining must of caught and was tweaked...see photo. This is the lining end at the rollers. Wire would not easily feed through lining.. Bought a new lining and works perfect now.

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

Originally Posted by Oscar

Are you sure it is lining up in the groove right as you close down the top roller? Due to the guide tube generally being so large, it's quite easy for the wire to slip out of the groove just from it's own tension/curvature from being wrapped on the spool. It's happened to me before, and then I wonder why I'm having feeding issues.

It seems to be I’ll have to give it another look though.

I’m not having issues since changing the contact tip i just feel like it shouldn’t even have been able to stop it.

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

Originally Posted by BrooklynBravest

It’s been good so far but I’m still a little surprised by the drive roll situation. I used our MM200 at work last night and i can crank that tension on the roll and it will still pull it no problem, but the geared MM255 has an issue?

I also used a random Amazon popular brand wire and I normally use Lincoln 56. So that might be a factor as well.

Are you sure it is lining up in the groove right as you close down the top roller? Due to the guide tube generally being so large, it's quite easy for the wire to slip out of the groove just from it's own tension/curvature from being wrapped on the spool. It's happened to me before, and then I wonder why I'm having feeding issues.

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

Originally Posted by Louie1961

any additional thoughts on welding with your new welder? How's it going for you?

It’s been good so far but I’m still a little surprised by the drive roll situation. I used our MM200 at work last night and i can crank that tension on the roll and it will still pull it no problem, but the geared MM255 has an issue?

I also used a random Amazon popular brand wire and I normally use Lincoln 56. So that might be a factor as well.

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

any additional thoughts on welding with your new welder? How's it going for you?

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

Originally Posted by Louie1961

I was the exact opposite. I had a Synchrowave 250 and a Millermatic 252. I found that I virtually never did any projects with aluminum, and I almost never used TIG for the stuff I was building or repairing. 99% of my actual work was MIG on steel. I mean I did a lot of projects for practice and had taught myself how to TIG and MIG aluminum, but buying aluminum around here is so dang expensive, I just never use it for anything. So I sold off the Syncrowave and MM252 and invested in a Multimatic 255. So far it does everything I need and does it well.

I actually keep the TIG because shelving and brackets etc for fire trucks are all aluminum for weight purposes. Never use the thing though for the most part.

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

Originally Posted by 30cal4me

That was my exact feeling 4 years ago. I ended up getting a lincoln precision tig 225 for stick/tig and a lincoln powermig 256 for mig. Happy with both so far for my needs.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

I was the exact opposite. I had a Synchrowave 250 and a Millermatic 252. I found that I virtually never did any projects with aluminum, and I almost never used TIG for the stuff I was building or repairing. 99% of my actual work was MIG on steel. I mean I did a lot of projects for practice and had taught myself how to TIG and MIG aluminum, but buying aluminum around here is so dang expensive, I just never use it for anything. So I sold off the Syncrowave and MM252 and invested in a Multimatic 255. So far it does everything I need and does it well.

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

Originally Posted by Munkul

I'm firmly of the opinion that it is best to have one machine for AC/DC TIG and one machine for MIG. At least one of them will do MMA as well anyway.

None of the AC/DC MIG/TIG/Arc do-it-all machines strike me as being very good at any one process... at least, not for the cost of them.

Having said that, the Resab Rebel 205 or multimatic 220 will have at least as good an AC arc as the SW200 which is a really really budget basic machine...

That was my exact feeling 4 years ago. I ended up getting a lincoln precision tig 225 for stick/tig and a lincoln powermig 256 for mig. Happy with both so far for my needs.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

Originally Posted by Louie1961

I think a small amount of "crackling" is unavoidable. And a commensurate amount of spatter is also unavoidable. A little bit of spatter doesn't worry me, so long as the weld comes out OK

You can always run a longer arc length which will eliminate crackle altogether. But the weld puddle will suffer from too much.

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

Originally Posted by M J D

I would think that in some type of automated application the spatter and crackling could be eliminated with the exception of a minor amount at the start of the weld.

I agree if it is fully automated and not subject to human induced fluctuations in travel speed and CTWD, etc.

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

I would think that in some type of automated application the spatter and crackling could be eliminated with the exception of a minor amount at the start of the weld.

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

Originally Posted by Louie1961

I think a small amount of "crackling" is unavoidable. And a commensurate amount of spatter is also unavoidable. A little bit of spatter doesn't worry me, so long as the weld comes out OK

Challenge accepted! I usually wear earplugs, so you could very well be correct across the board. Or.....it might be time for me to check some footage.

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

I think a small amount of "crackling" is unavoidable. And a commensurate amount of spatter is also unavoidable. A little bit of spatter doesn't worry me, so long as the weld comes out OK

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

Originally Posted by Louie1961

Here's a summary of the research I did for pulse MIG welding:

Just about the best summary of practical pulse-MIG set-up procedure I've seen.

It's interesting to see just how much spatter is flying off on the camera footage that is capturing the big picture, and isn't super-darkened like the one that is capturing the actual arc shot. Hmmm.

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

Originally Posted by M J D

Yeah arc length and stick out are pretty much the same, at least here anyways.

Stick out (or maybe more accurately called contact tip to work distance or CTWD) is a function of how far from the work piece you hold the MIG gun. It is controlled by the operator. Arc length is an adjustment made using a knob on the machine. Per Miller: "in Pulsed MIG mode there is no manual voltage adjustment; instead, voltage is synergically aligned with the proper wire feed speed. Arc Length adjustment is used to adjust actual arc length, which automatically adjusts the voltage."

"Arc length can be adjusted from 0-99. All Pulse MIG programs are set with a value of 50. Adjusting the Arc Length will vary the length of the welding arc cone."

I am guessing that arc length adjusts voltage and arc control adjusts inductance. I don't think either setting directly affects amperage, which is presumably controlled primarily by wire feed speed.

Attachment 1736244Attachment 1736245

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

Originally Posted by BrooklynBravest

What’s the deal with arc length?

Here's a summary of the research I did for pulse MIG welding:

Lincoln says (for the L-56 wire I use) to use a gas flow of 30-50 CFH and to maintain a contact tip to work distance (CTWD) between 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch

ESAB advises: If you hear popping or crackling sounds, this typically means that the wire feed speed is too high for the arc length (or travel speed too slow). For pulse welding to run optimally, you need to keep the arc out in front of the weld puddle and transition in a smooth and steady motion across the weld joint. If you are using a stepping technique, the constantly changing arc length forces the power source to try and adapt instantaneously to these variations. In many cases, this is the largest contributor to welding spatter in a pulse welding mode.

From Weld.com: You will know if your CTWD is too short because you will hear a crackling sound as you are welding. Too much CTWD and the puddle will start crown up due to the loss of amperage. Maintain a CTWD between 1/2"-3/4". You should hear a loud buzzing noise, that is the pulse, any crackling and you will have to adjust one of three things: The first would be ensuring your CTWD isn't too close. The second is to make sure you are not traveling too slow. A travel speed that is too slow will cause the puddle to crown up and inadvertently decrease your CTWD. Third, if the CTWD is correct and you still have crackling, try increasing the arc length setting.


In these videos the "trim" adjustment on the Lincoln machine is virtually the same as the "arc length" adjustment on the MM255, although the units of measure are slightly different. On the Lincoln, the default trim is 1.00 (presumably measured in volts) and in the Miller the default is 50 and can vary from 0 to 100 (so not measured in volts would be my guess). Decreasing trim decreases the arc length on the Lincoln.













Your weld should be about 5-6 times the diameter of your electrode. for 0.035 wire this is 0.175 inches to 0.21 inches (roughly 3/16ths of an inch wide, but less than a quarter inch wide...don't think of 7018 beads.

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

Originally Posted by Munkul

Deflection and bluster only work on the weak and the uneducated, old chap. I gave you chance to save face already. I'm out.

I've learned a long time ago. " Don't argue with an idiot, they will bring you down to there level and beat you with years of experience". Out, have a good one anyways.

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

Deflection and bluster only work on the weak and the uneducated, old chap. I gave you chance to save face already. I'm out.

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

So this is all about my " ignorance" and " wrong information". That's a good one. So explain to me how my statement saying " wire speed and arc length affects amperage" isn't true. So how exactly does changing the length of your arc not affect it. On my xmt 304 which has amperage and voltage digital meters, the amperage and to a small amount the voltage meter clearly changes it's readout when arc length is changed. There may be a small amount of smoke but no mirrors involved when this happens.

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

Originally Posted by M J D

I'm not spreading any disinformation. What I'm saying that your not understanding is one effects the other. You cant change one without affecting the other if nothing else is changed . For example wire will only " burn off" so much. Either way your long winded explanation basically says the same thing . Your not wrong, I'm not wrong it's a different way of saying the same thing.

Now I'm in a position to write a bit more (I was sick in bed yesterday) I can explain how these are totally different variables:

If you increase arc length (voltage on CV machines), you get a wider weld bead, if you increase it too much you lose puddle energy and get undercut. If you decrease it too much then you will get wire stubbing in the puddle and/or a ropey weld bead with poor toes.

If you increase stickout, you lose current, if you increase it too much you will get a cold puddle and loss of fusion. If you decrease stickout too much, then at high amps you'll overheat the gun front end and/or drag the shroud against the weld bead.

Tell me again how they are the same thing?
Again, nothing personal, I just can't stand it when wrong information is shared world-wide through sheer ignorance.

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

Originally Posted by M J D

I'm not spreading any disinformation. What I'm saying that your not understanding is one effects the other. You cant change one without affecting the other if nothing else is changed . For example wire will only " burn off" so much. Either way your long winded explanation basically says the same thing . Your not wrong, I'm not wrong it's a different way of saying the same thing.

It's 100% not the same thing and any welding teacher worth his salt would tell you, but we'll have to agree to disagree.

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

Originally Posted by Munkul

No, it is actually, I'm trying to explain
They are absolutely totally different things, and they have minor effects on each other but are regulated differently.

One is the length of the electrical arc and this is NOT regulated by hand movement, it is SOLELY regulated by voltage on a CV power source, and clever pulsed currents/voltage on synergic pulse machines. Hence, "arc length trim"
It is not easily measured and usually estimated by eye in spray and pulsed-spray transfer.
It is ALWAYS the same. Arc length has a very VERY minor effect on current.

The other is the length of wire that is preheated by current between the gun tip and before it reaches the puddle, and this is regulated by your hand movements, you hold the gun a certain distance above the weld, and this affects "stick out"
It is measured between the weld pool and the gun tip. Another term for it is electrode extension, one is measured from the gun shroud and the other is measured from the tip itself, I understand that these are very similar and may be confused, not that it matters too much outside of textbooks, and I won't argue with anyone here. Personally I prefer measurement to the gun tip, as the shrould may be longer or cut back etc.

Stickout has a large effect on weld current, as a longer stickout = more pre-heating = more resistance = less current transfer.

https://www.millerwelds.com/resource...-work-distance

You can choose not to understand this difference if you like, doesn't bother me but I hate seeing dis-information spreading on good forums like this.

I'm not spreading any disinformation. What I'm saying that your not understanding is one effects the other. You cant change one without affecting the other if nothing else is changed . For example wire will only " burn off" so much. Either way your long winded explanation basically says the same thing . Your not wrong, I'm not wrong it's a different way of saying the same thing.

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

Originally Posted by M J D

You can't have one without the other. There are many terms that have interchangeable meanings . Either way it's not worth splitting hairs over

No, it is actually, I'm trying to explain
They are absolutely totally different things, and they have minor effects on each other but are regulated differently.

One is the length of the electrical arc and this is NOT regulated by hand movement, it is SOLELY regulated by voltage on a CV power source, and clever pulsed currents/voltage on synergic pulse machines. Hence, "arc length trim"
It is not easily measured and usually estimated by eye in spray and pulsed-spray transfer.
It is ALWAYS the same. Arc length has a very VERY minor effect on current.

The other is the length of wire that is preheated by current between the gun tip and before it reaches the puddle, and this is regulated by your hand movements, you hold the gun a certain distance above the weld, and this affects "stick out"
It is measured between the weld pool and the gun tip. Another term for it is electrode extension, one is measured from the gun shroud and the other is measured from the tip itself, I understand that these are very similar and may be confused, not that it matters too much outside of textbooks, and I won't argue with anyone here. Personally I prefer measurement to the gun tip, as the shrould may be longer or cut back etc.

Stickout has a large effect on weld current, as a longer stickout = more pre-heating = more resistance = less current transfer.

https://www.millerwelds.com/resource...-work-distance

You can choose not to understand this difference if you like, doesn't bother me but I hate seeing dis-information spreading on good forums like this.

Re: Multimatic 255 vs SW200 and 210MP

Originally Posted by Munkul

No they aren't. Arc length is the actual length of the arc between solid end, and weld pool, as the droplets detach feom the wire. Controlled by voltage, or "arc length" trim on synergic machines.
Stick out is manually controlled by your hands and its how far away the gun tip is away from the weld pool.

You can't have one without the other. There are many terms that have interchangeable meanings . Either way it's not worth splitting hairs over