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Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... I was trying to account for mods. The Hot and cold lines were relocated... through me off.
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day....
Water cooler failure??? bad day.... Well my case has been altered quite a bit obviously. I added the PSI gauge and WhirlyGig water flow gadget and also a digital readout for water temperature going in/out Also has a large computer fan for the radiator Not that it’s even needed with 5 gallons of coolant
Water cooler failure??? bad day....
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... No marking on pump, at least visible without removal. My motor says italy. My mot is blue in color. Internal pump shaft looked pristine. I just finally seriously looked at it on wednesday. The cooler is so simple, not really much to go wrong if motor/pump does not fail due to poor quality or misuse? I don't think the quality is poor on mine. That flow controller is ABS and won't corrode. Though it has a grill inside that may clog with debris. It also constrict flow enough to be deceptive if you are looking at the return line in the tank- compared to what the pump outputs without restriction. Not sure of the mfg date. Mine case looks different than johnT unit.
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... Originally Posted by John T Not sure about the pump. Oscar would probably know I've opened my coolers, but never looked that far into it though.
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... Originally Posted by Sberry Am i the only one would stick weld this? Haha Stick weld what?
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... Am i the only one would stick weld this? Haha
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... My 5 gallon pail set up with procon pump has been working flawlessly since I put it together.
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... Motor is Italy. As you can see there was some pitting on the shaft where it goes into the water pump. That water pump is junk but that’s just my opinion.
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... Not sure about the pump. Oscar would probably know
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... Motor, italy. Pump?
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... Originally Posted by lugweld Where were your pump and motor made? I think Italy but I will take a look when I get home Threw away the pump I only have the motor and fan left. That’s a nice little motor. I have it wired to 110 V and use the fan in the summertime. That little fan moves a lot of air. Which reminds me I need to build a shroud for it one of these days.
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... Where were your pump and motor made?
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... I am just guessing. The little blue tube that remains in the coolant keep the pump primed. Without it the pump could empty or create a vacuum due to barometric pressure. ??? Mine sits unused for long periods. I would not suggest clamping it. That may be the cause of my impellor discoloration/wear.
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... Originally Posted by John T What exactly does that mean? how did you calibrate it? The flow controller thingy has a spring/magnet inside. The flow controller switch(plastic pad with wires and 2 screws) sit atop the controller thingy. The switch is activated by the magnet. The switch can sense on or off depending on its position. Loosen the tiny screws, then slide the switch. Test: if extreme on way or the other the alarm will not come on (pinching hoses to restrict) or will stay on. Somewhere in the middle is right and there is some ability to make it more or less sensitive.
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... Originally Posted by tapwelder Flow switch not calibrated correctly. What exactly does that mean? how did you calibrate it?
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... Fixed. Flow switch not calibrated correctly.
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... Originally Posted by John T I was thinking about this today and First of all, we are using the wrong terminology It’s actually not a shear pin it’s a key That fits into the slot (keyway) on the motor shaft which in turn drives the pump. That connection is also isolated by seals so the coolant/water never touches the pin or the shaft. Had my pump apart yesterday. The key holding the brass impeller inside the pump swims in coolant? My impeller had some interesting "wear" marks. Not sure if tge were wear marks, however. There is no mating wear marks anywhere in the pump. Is there a key from inside the motor? Mine worked for about a year when i clamped the blue hose inside the reservoir, then the alarm started again. Otherwise, all looks pristine inside.
Water cooler failure??? bad day.... Another thing I noticed is, They are now using oetiker clamps instead of the screw on compression type. They work great but not user-friendly for the every day Joe.
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... Originally Posted by Oscar Mine also came that way on my Invertig 400. The kit itself from CK doesn't include the Dinse connector nor the short hose, so it's kinda pieced together by vendors. . Well one of the vendors he must have eaten his Wheaties the morning they put mine together. I got the cooler up and running and everything is fine again… But occasionally I see one single drip on the floor Couldn’t figure out where Finally today I found out it’s coming from the dinse connector I take it apart And the center brass piece is f@ckin cracked! HTP America is sending a replacement. Luckily I kept the old one also. Stupid sh*t
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... Originally Posted by Louie1961 I wonder if that wasn't the cause of your failure. Was the shear pin corroded at all? I was thinking about this today and First of all, we are using the wrong terminology It’s actually not a shear pin it’s a key That fits into the slot (keyway) on the motor shaft which in turn drives the pump. That connection is also isolated by seals so the coolant/water never touches the pin or the shaft.
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... Originally Posted by Xsbank I get the idea that the coolant is to keep the torch cool but I don't understand why the cooler failure is damaging the cable. Is the hose intended to keep the cable cool too? It seems that the cable is too small for the length used and the current it is carrying? I think that a failed cooler will make the torch too hot to hold, not burn up the cable? Can someone explain? A March 809 pump is an excellent pump but its 12 volts. I have one on my hydronic heater on the boat and it pumps hot water all day. The wire gauge in the water-cooled power cable is much smaller than the power cable in an air cooled torch, without water the power cable can glow in the water cooled torch. Sincerely, William McCormick
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... Originally Posted by Oscar Who made the hoses? I'm not sure, but I still have the whole setup. Do you think there would be markings somewhere? Maybe if I peel back the outer covering?
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... Originally Posted by jagboy69 Oh wonderful! And I JUST received my arctic chill. How dumb does that make me? Should I give it back? Let's see if Jeff calls me this week. IMO, you don't have much to worry about. My original cooler from 2013 still works just fine, and my 2nd "demo unit" that I use for my stick welder also works fine.
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... Originally Posted by G-ManBart I finally remembered to take pictures of the degraded torch lines I mentioned. This torch was marked Radnor, so no way of knowing who made it for Airgas Who made the hoses?
Re: Water cooler failure??? bad day.... Originally Posted by John T WoW That’s really something. Looks like some thin wall/internal hose My CK lines Are much thicker than that They didn't start out that thin, it's just that's how badly they crumbled and fell apart. Other areas of the same lines have a wall thickness is several times thicker and look similar to the CK hose pictures you posted. If you look down into the hose a bit you can see where it gets thicker...sort of a ridge/ledge. I'll try to remember to cut a section a few inches away where the wall thickness is normal. It's really crazy...run your fingers along the hose and everything is normal, then you hit a spot where the rubber has disintegrated and the rubber collapses with almost no finger pressure. Near the fittings seems to be the worst, but there are areas randomly along the length of hose where you'll find soft spots. I almost wonder if the soft spots were hanging at the bottom of the loop when coiled up on the machine, or something similar, and the chemicals eating the rubber sunk to the low spot.
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