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Re: FAIL! Collets 101

Originally Posted by smithdoor

The best way to stop a nut from coming is tack the nut to shaft.

Dave

Only if you're a shortsighted bodger

Re: FAIL! Collets 101

Originally Posted by smithdoor

The best way to stop a nut from coming is tack the nut to shaft.

Dave

Attachment 1734926 So, you want me to go through all of this again in a few years, or maybe even a few months?????????????? This whole fiasco was because some moron messed up the thread in the first place You sir, are a dangerous fella

Re: FAIL! Collets 101

The best way to stop a nut from coming is tack the nut to shaft.

Dave

Originally Posted by farmersammm

Attachment 1734921 Rebending the tangs worked out great. Washer stayed centered, and the tang bent without effort, using a large pair of slip joint pliers. Final setting wound up being about .001 end play.

Attachment 1734922 She's sealed up, and weather tight.

Attachment 1734923 The seal that started this whole mess. I hope this will last till they shovel dirt in my face. The brown goo is open gear lube. I use it on all machined parts that have to temporarily sit out in the weather.

Attachment 1734924 The final thing is to check the blade plate for flatness, straighten if necessary, and put it on the machine. This machine will obliterate Cedar Trees up to around 6-7' tall. Back in the day (I guess), they put heavy plates on these things. This a 1" thick plate. It acts as a flywheel, giving the machine incredible power. To me at least, this makes the machine worth repairing.

Re: FAIL! Collets 101

I'm always fascinated by machinery.

I was just noodling around, punching some numbers on the calculator

The shaft is threaded at 18tpi. That's about .055 per revolution.

The washer has 16 tangs. That's about .003 per tang. That's a pretty healthy range of adjustments. Pretty cool stuff. IIRC, axle spindles are threaded at maybe 20tpi, making them even tighter on tolerances when it comes to adjusting bearing end play.

Re: FAIL! Collets 101

Attachment 1734921 Rebending the tangs worked out great. Washer stayed centered, and the tang bent without effort, using a large pair of slip joint pliers. Final setting wound up being about .001 end play.

Attachment 1734922 She's sealed up, and weather tight.

Attachment 1734923 The seal that started this whole mess. I hope this will last till they shovel dirt in my face. The brown goo is open gear lube. I use it on all machined parts that have to temporarily sit out in the weather.

Attachment 1734924 The final thing is to check the blade plate for flatness, straighten if necessary, and put it on the machine. This machine will obliterate Cedar Trees up to around 6-7' tall. Back in the day (I guess), they put heavy plates on these things. This a 1" thick plate. It acts as a flywheel, giving the machine incredible power. To me at least, this makes the machine worth repairing.

Re: FAIL! Collets 101

Made a new gasket, and started to install it................ Then I remembered that I hadn't locked the bearing adjuster nut Ruined the new gasket.......Hell......what else is new

Attachment 1734794

Anyway...............I couldn't get the tabs to bend on the lock washer, without moving the nut, AND the washer. Turns out that the washer, being sized for a 1 9/16 shaft, won't properly fit the 1 1/2 resized thread. Too much slop. I remembered being concerned about that some time back.

I'd flattened all the tangs on the washer when removing it during the initial teardown. So....................I got to thinking.............

Attachment 1734795 I figure, if I rebend the tabs to factory "new", they might centralize the washer on the shaft. Used the damaged nut, and another nut I bought when I originally hoped to simply restore the damaged thread. Using the press to hold the washer firmly, I then used a drift to bend the tangs to comform to the nut.

Attachment 1734796

Attachment 1734797

Attachment 1734798 The washer is now centralized underneath the nut. It's very solid, and doesn't move at all. Set the damn thing again tomorrow. Closed up early, because by then I'd had enough for one day. Another stupid mistake.

I guess in some ways it was a blessing. I discovered some grit I'd missed when cleaning the gear case. Knocked it loose, and can now remove it before I seal it up again.

Re: FAIL! Collets 101

Originally Posted by farmersammm

Not yet. It's still on hold.

At the risk of being a drama queen,, and getting flak from some folks...........................I'm scheduled for a lung biopsy mid January. Was told the PET scan lit up like a Xmas tree. Mentally, I'm not doing very well. I'm making mistakes almost daily. I'm not doing a very good job at this kind of work right now. I'm pretty preoccupied. The work is suffering.

Two takes on the crane............either forget it, or do it to keep some semblance of sanity. I haven't come down on either side at this point. I'm planning for the future in terms of livestock shelters, but hesitant about the crane.....................things are that f'd up right now.

Sorry to hear about your health woes. Hope you can get some good news at your next appt.

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Re: FAIL! Collets 101

And, if you have the money................go out and buy the Noga large indicator base. It reaches about 12", and is almost indispensable once you own one. You won't regret the outlay. I've had this one about 2yrs, and love it.

Re: FAIL! Collets 101

Originally Posted by IAMsteelworker

Gotcha. Well at least it'll be put to good use the 8" pipe that is. Take it you haven't started the crane build?

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Not yet. It's still on hold.

At the risk of being a drama queen,, and getting flak from some folks...........................I'm scheduled for a lung biopsy mid January. Was told the PET scan lit up like a Xmas tree. Mentally, I'm not doing very well. I'm making mistakes almost daily. I'm not doing a very good job at this kind of work right now. I'm pretty preoccupied. The work is suffering.

Two takes on the crane............either forget it, or do it to keep some semblance of sanity. I haven't come down on either side at this point. I'm planning for the future in terms of livestock shelters, but hesitant about the crane.....................things are that f'd up right now.

Re: FAIL! Collets 101

Attachment 1734774 Kelly aka K'kins helped me set the preload on the bearings. We wound up at around .0015 freeplay, which is ideal for tapered roller bearings. You never want to set them any tighter than this. Don't believe me, take a look at Timken setting procedures.

When setting bearings like this.........where the bearing is almost a press fit on the shaft, hit the shaft with a dead blow hammer to insure that you've taken up all the slack, or have measured all the freeplay. It's critical. Tapered roller bearings heat up during use, and have to have about .0015 freeplay when cold.

Attachment 1734775 Nothing is ever 100% precise. I was able to come up with the proper freeplay at a position that was very close to the adjuster washer tang. I will probably wind up with a bit more freeplay than I wanted, but a bit more is preferable to no freeplay. The greatest cause of Timken style bearing failure is insufficient freeplay.

Everything seemed to work out right, so I guess I didn't mess anything up. K'kins got a nice lesson on reading a dial indicator, which she took to heart. She likes this sort of stuff. So, all in all, it was a good day.

Only fly in the ointment.......................the gears on the input shaft were badly pitted from sitting in a gear case full of water. I figure that it'll probably run until it starts to make noise. Then I'll look into replacing the gears. Long as it runs out for at least one season, I'm ok with it. The gears are probably close to a grand to replace, so I'm just gonna hope for the best. They might run another 20yrs(shrug) The required oil for these is something like 85-140, so the thick oil might provide a good cushion for the damaged gears.

Re: FAIL! Collets 101

The 3pt crane dates back almost 25yrs. I built it to build the front end loader back in the day. Amazingly,, it took only about 2 days to make. I wasn't a worry wart back then. Age makes for over thinking things I guess.

Attachment 1734772 Didn't have squat back in those days, just a welder, torch, and a drill press.

Anyways............there were some design flaws that showed up years later. I made some modifications to correct them,, and it's been that way ever since. It'll handle about 1500# safely.

I tend to forget I even have it. Most of the time it just sits on its cradle over by the fence, until I need it.

It could probably do an engine removal, but it's not precise. Anyone who's ever snapped an input shaft on a transmission, trying to insert it into the flywheel, will know what I mean.

I used the antique chain fall until this past Winter. I didn't realize that when I put it on a pallet for storage,, that one of the chains sat on the ground all Winter,, and corroded to the point of pitting. So...........had to quit using it, and bought the little HF chain hoist. The HF chain hoist works easier, but it doesn't give you the pleasure that the old one did.

Re: FAIL! Collets 101

Originally Posted by smithdoor

Like the crane on the tractor

Dave

Me too... wouldn't a couple supports under that one do most of the lifting you need to do? I'd like a larger pull type version with hydraulic lifts...

Re: FAIL! Collets 101

Originally Posted by 12V71

DO.NOT.ASK ABOUT THE TURKEY BASTERS... PLEASE.

LOL... don't see any rubber suits in the pic...

Re: FAIL! Collets 101

Originally Posted by farmersammm

It's both Allis's that are down. This is the last man standing. BTW, we might just keep a good portion of that 8" pipe for a wind/rain shelter in the pasture. No way you could buy the stuff to do it for the price of the pipe. The existing shelter is about to collapse.

Gotcha. Well at least it'll be put to good use the 8" pipe that is. Take it you haven't started the crane build?

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Re: FAIL! Collets 101

Originally Posted by farmersammm

Geez, I forgot to say what the basters are for. I'm just not with it.

I need to clean the crud out of the gear case. It had water in it when I tore it down. The easiest way, without tearing the rest of it down, is to flush it out with kerosene. I've done this before, and it works well. Tooth brush, small wire toothbrush/slag brush, and a baster to provide a pressurized flow. And, what residual kerosene is left, and it's not much, won't interfere with the gear oil. It generally dries down to an oily film.

Even though it's been tarped, it's still gotten some grit in there too. This will flush it all out. The input gear is elevated so the grit, if there is any, will flush down away from the bearings. Then I'll flush the bearings when I feel that I got all the grit in the case flushed.

I didn't want to tear down the other pinion gear shaft. It rotates without any drag, or sound, and it's tight. So I don't want to open up another possible can of worms.

Get done with the bearing preload, and make a gasket for the cover, then fill it. Spin it before putting the blade plate, and stump jumper on. Then add all the other stuff. No point in completing it before I spin it to see if I did everything right.

The best gearbox flusher is a pump type weed sprayer. Just saying. Use mine all the time for truck rearends. And made my own air operated Vacuum cleaner for sucking the junk out.

Re: FAIL! Collets 101

Originally Posted by IAMsteelworker

I thought that tractor was down? Basting a Turkey for Christmas? Lol

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It's both Allis's that are down. This is the last man standing. BTW, we might just keep a good portion of that 8" pipe for a wind/rain shelter in the pasture. No way you could buy the stuff to do it for the price of the pipe. The existing shelter is about to collapse.

Re: FAIL! Collets 101

Geez, I forgot to say what the basters are for. I'm just not with it.

I need to clean the crud out of the gear case. It had water in it when I tore it down. The easiest way, without tearing the rest of it down, is to flush it out with kerosene. I've done this before, and it works well. Tooth brush, small wire toothbrush/slag brush, and a baster to provide a pressurized flow. And, what residual kerosene is left, and it's not much, won't interfere with the gear oil. It generally dries down to an oily film.

Even though it's been tarped, it's still gotten some grit in there too. This will flush it all out. The input gear is elevated so the grit, if there is any, will flush down away from the bearings. Then I'll flush the bearings when I feel that I got all the grit in the case flushed.

I didn't want to tear down the other pinion gear shaft. It rotates without any drag, or sound, and it's tight. So I don't want to open up another possible can of worms.

Get done with the bearing preload, and make a gasket for the cover, then fill it. Spin it before putting the blade plate, and stump jumper on. Then add all the other stuff. No point in completing it before I spin it to see if I did everything right.

Re: FAIL! Collets 101

Originally Posted by IAMsteelworker

I thought that tractor was down? Basting a Turkey for Christmas? Lol

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DO.NOT.ASK ABOUT THE TURKEY BASTERS... PLEASE.

Re: FAIL! Collets 101

I thought that tractor was down? Basting a Turkey for Christmas? Lol

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Re: FAIL! Collets 101

Like the crane on the tractor

Dave

Originally Posted by farmersammm

Attachment 1734743

Attachment 1734744

Re: FAIL! Collets 101

Attachment 1734743

Attachment 1734744

Re: FAIL! Collets 101

Originally Posted by farmersammm

Excellent…no noise in the background…thanks!

Merry Christmas and I hope all is well with all the members here…

Now, what will the next 2,582 projects be?

Re: FAIL! Collets 101

Re: FAIL! Collets 101

Sounds great

Dave

Originally Posted by whtbaron

I had a 21 ft driveshaft across the back of the swather header that got twisted when a chain broke and wrapped on one end. I just ran a 4 ft level along the shaft to see where it was low, put a jackall under the low spot and hit the high end with the BFH. Had to be more than 10 yrs ago and the chains are still staying on...

Re: FAIL! Collets 101

I had a 21 ft driveshaft across the back of the swather header that got twisted when a chain broke and wrapped on one end. I just ran a 4 ft level along the shaft to see where it was low, put a jackall under the low spot and hit the high end with the BFH. Had to be more than 10 yrs ago and the chains are still staying on...