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Re: Aead200le

Originally Posted by Poleframer

Adjusting the position of the straps on those resistors changes the voltage output, one is for weld output, the other is for the 120 volt output.
Before you do that, make sure your rpm's are set. Best to use a meter with frequency, at generating speed with no load you want 62 hz on your 120 outlets, and on the 100 hz outlet, 100 hz will be 3000 rmps for weld speed.
I dont know offhand which resistor is which, should be easy to see as you adjust each. You want 80 volts open circuit on the AC weld output, and 120 on the outlets.
Only takes minor adjustment, so stay close to where the straps look like they were originally positioned.

I appreciate that. I'll update when I have the new parts and if/ when I get the voltages and hz where they need to be. Hopefully the welding voltage can be raised enough with the adjustments

Re: Aead200le

Adjusting the position of the straps on those resistors changes the voltage output, one is for weld output, the other is for the 120 volt output.
Before you do that, make sure your rpm's are set. Best to use a meter with frequency, at generating speed with no load you want 62 hz on your 120 outlets, and on the 100 hz outlet, 100 hz will be 3000 rmps for weld speed.
I dont know offhand which resistor is which, should be easy to see as you adjust each. You want 80 volts open circuit on the AC weld output, and 120 on the outlets.
Only takes minor adjustment, so stay close to where the straps look like they were originally positioned.

Re: Aead200le

Originally Posted by mla2ofus

Does one of those resistors control battery charge voltage??

I believe it does but I'm not 100% sure. When I get the new resistor lugs I'll find out

Re: Aead200le

Originally Posted by Insaneride

Thanks for the link squirmy,

I was going to suggest making them from nickle shims and brass screws/nuts.

So is it running and welding now with temporary copper taps?

The charging voltage sounded low from you previous post. It must be charging if your getting aux power. That's the way it looks from schematics. I don't know tho

It's running really good and making voltage on the power side and voltage on the welding side. Welding ac voltage is about 70v and DC voltage is about 60v so both are a little low but I think weld speed needs to be bumped up a little and then adjust the taps on the resistors. I haven't tried adjusting the resistors with the temporary taps I made so hopefully I can get everything within spec after I get the parts

Re: Aead200le

Does one of those resistors control battery charge voltage??

Re: Aead200le

Originally Posted by SquirmyPug

For anyone who needs the band/clamp/lug for the resistors part number Miller (052 782).

I believe this is the correct part. I'll know in a few days when I get them.

Ohmite part number

Attachment 1728324

Thanks for the link squirmy,

I was going to suggest making them from nickle shims and brass screws/nuts.

So is it running and welding now with temporary copper taps?

The charging voltage sounded low from you previous post. It must be charging if your getting aux power. That's the way it looks from schematics. I don't know tho

Re: Aead200le

For anyone who needs the band/clamp/lug for the resistors part number Miller (052 782).

I believe this is the correct part. I'll know in a few days when I get them.

Ohmite part number #2125E

Attachment 1728324

Re: Aead200le

Other Miller machines have similar resisters so clamps shouldn't be hard to get. I had a Trailblazer 55D with similar resistors.

Re: Aead200le

I was thinking about making my own if I have to. I would rather use original just to make it easy but either way I'll figure something out

Re: Aead200le

Those clamps shouldn't be difficult to fabricate. Use some sheet copper and they won't rust away again. Hobby lobby would be the first place to look.

Re: Aead200le

Anyone know where I can get the resistor tap clamp or have a part number for it? I can't find it anywhere online

Re: Aead200le

Got another update.
I fought with the carburetor multiple times trying to get the machine running like it should and finally got a smooth idle

After that I had to figure out why it wasn't generating power..
I thought it had to do with the idle speed or a switch but started looking and found that the resistor tap bands were bad.
One rusted completely in half and the other was in bad shape.
Cut them off and had to improvise to check if the machine was going to work.
.. So here's what I didAttachment 1728266

Attachment 1728267

It worked!! So now I need to find the tap clamps for the resistors which I can't seem to find anywhere...
Then it's just fine adjusting everything to get voltage and hz and idles where they need to be.
Right now it's making 122v at 63hz at the receptacles. 95hz at the weld 100hz receptacle.
And the battery seemed to be charging a bit low at 12.8-9v

I really appreciate the help guys

Re: Aead200le

I forgot to ask... So the fine adjustment rheostat has a bad spot about 95%. Am I able to jump the terminals so I get the 100% needed for generating power just to see if the generator works? I don't know why I didn't think of that before but it could be the last problem to get the machine working.

I would hate to buy a new rheostat and set it to 100% then have it burn the wire like the old one. But... It's only money right?

Insane, I'll reply to you in a little bit when I have some more time.

Re: Aead200le

Forgive me about the switch. It should have been DPST and I said DPDT. On the bright side, it will work but two off positions.

If your getting grinder power ( ac100hz) then the charging system must be working and it looks like a like that's how the exciter works from schematic. I have no experience with millers but they have good schematics.

The S1 switch 3 pole single throw does three things. Auto idle, auxiliary power and weld power. You know the auto idle and auxiliary works. I would verify the third pole of S1 is making connection for weld. If it's good then I would trace schematic to the next solid state device and or check continuity in suspect coils. Hope that helps. Have you emailed Duane55? He would know common failures.

Edit
Edit edit
It looks like S1 need to be switched to weld from power to weld. Makes wiring S1 slightly more complicated but I think try switching aux power to weld for welding. I don't know but that's what it looks like in schematic

Re: Aead200le

Next update- Got the auto idle working last night

When set to weld mode the machine will auto idle or high idle depending on where I have the switch. At high idle the 100hz receptacle reads about 95hz. It works as is for the grinder and makes it idle up.
When the weld/ power switch is set to power I'm not getting voltage to the receptacles. I'm not sure if the switch is only working for some of the terminals or possibly something else going on. Was also thinking that setting the weld mode receptacle to 100hz by adjusting the idle up a little might let the machine make voltage with power mode. Got to do some more testing

Here's the next video just showing it auto idling.

Re: Aead200le

Almost there, fingers crossed. Will it weld/generate ? I hope so.

Re: Aead200le

After replacing a few parts I got the machine running last night

It's not idling up, generating power or welding but I haven't checked anything yet so hopefully it won't take much to get it working.

Here's a short video of a cold start the morning after getting it running

Re: Aead200le

Originally Posted by albrightree

You might want to check for rodent damage/nests inside the welder. Thats usually the biggest problem with machines that sit a long time. Checking to make sure the brushes move freely, and that the rotor is not too corroded might be a good idea also.

Regards

I will look closer before trying to get it to run but I've looked a lot and didn't see any nests or bad wires/ connections. Everything looks good, just dusty

Re: Aead200le

You might want to check for rodent damage/nests inside the welder. Thats usually the biggest problem with machines that sit a long time. Checking to make sure the brushes move freely, and that the rotor is not too corroded might be a good idea also.

Regards

Re: Aead200le

So I've been slowly working on the machine, new spark plugs, air filter, oil and filter, fuel lines and filter.. the usual stuff.
I could hear the starter spinning but it sounds like just an electric motor with no load so I figured that the bendix gear was stuck in place.
Removed the sheet metal until I could get to the starter and checked...definitely stuck.
So I used some wd to free it and get it moving easily and thought that would be it.. nope.
It seems that the plastic gears inside the starter have stripped so I ordered a new starter and it should be here Tuesday.
After that I should be able to find out if the machine will start


Is there anything in the generator/ welder that I need to check before trying to get the machine running?
I can't think of anything and didn't see anything that might be a problem but I've never owned a generator before.
Thanks for the help guys

Re: Aead200le

Originally Posted by albrightree

Sorry about that, you are correct. S1 is the power and weld , S2 is on/off. On the drawing S1 shows on top but the line shows it going to the left in the panel, but my drawing looks like its been re copied a few times. I wonder if that schematic on you machine is a replacement, its in beautiful shape.

Attachment 1727836


Wow $120 is a pretty good price hope you get it running.

I don't think the schematic is a replacement but it could be. Looking at the machine, I don't think it was EVER used to weld. The coarse amperage switch copper contacts didn't have any scratches or wear until I adjusted it to see if it would turn. I think if I can get it running, it will be a nice machine. The motor needs a little work from what I can see but I haven't noticed anything that would make me scrap it.

I got the switch installed last night, getting spark plugs and hopefully fuel line/ filter installed tonight. After that I'll get a battery and see what happens. I tried to see if it would turn over with some cheap jumper cables but got little more than a click. Hope there's nothing else going on with it.

I appreciate all the help guys and I'll keep you updated about the machine.

Re: Aead200le

Sorry about that, you are correct. S1 is the power and weld , S2 is on/off. On the drawing S1 shows on top but the line shows it going to the left in the panel, but my drawing looks like its been re copied a few times. I wonder if that schematic on you machine is a replacement, its in beautiful shape.

Attachment 1727836


Wow $120 is a pretty good price hope you get it running.

Re: Aead200le

Originally Posted by Insaneride

If you jumper 30 and 31 you will have ignition. Distributor power.

Wire 27 looks like battery charge. Put a volt meter on that wire and verify its getting 14 volts. It looks like you need it for exciter also? It may show weird voltage if regulator shorted/opened.

Make sure not to short any wires jumping it. And use a charged battery.

I really appreciate that thank you, I stopped at a hardware store and got a double pole double throw (on, off, on) switch with an o- ring so hopefully that will work and last a while.

Re: Aead200le

If you jumper 30 and 31 you will have ignition. Distributor power.

Wire 27 looks like battery charge. Put a volt meter on that wire and verify its getting 14 volts. It looks like you need it for exciter also? It may show weird voltage if regulator shorted/opened.

Make sure not to short any wires jumping it. And use a charged battery.

Re: Aead200le

Originally Posted by SquirmyPug

The wires that aren't connected to a switch are #31, #30, >30,>27. If that helps.

Your schematic shows those wires going to S2. Albrighttree is correct that S1 is a 3 pole but wires 31,30 and 27 on your schematic go to S2.

The NO (normally open) are jumpered together between poles and then connected to 30.

The C or common from one pole goes to 27. The other C goes to 31. The NC normally closed or OFF isn't used.

The switch may work backwards or up for off down for on but just reorient the switch if needed. It has to do with which common you use for 27 and 31. Doesn't matter but down should be off. It can be confusing until you know which position is on. It can cause bad dreams if you try to start it in the off position. Guess how I know?

Edit: I had a similar switch problem on a kohler. One pole went bad. I was able to tie both commons together to get the job done.