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I became caretaker of Caterpillar D315 Lincoln 300x2 Twin Arc welding machine today

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101K views 205 replies 46 participants last post by  wrenchguy  
W
#1 ·
1953 i believe, gotta ck a lot stuff out b4 trying 2 start. I removed the enclosure 2 get better views. I plan on disconnecting while getting the engine running. Can the welding machine be dated by serial number? Ur comments be welcome, especially the condition of the welder after viewing photos. Where do I find maintenance info 4 this welder? Last run 15 years ago as told owners son.


 
B
#4 ·
That is a fine looking machine you have there! Have you tried the codes on Lincoln's site yet? Some of you will correct me if I am wrong here, but I think I have heard of those units being sold and commonly put on draglines and such which would fit your year model nicely and engine size for the popular smaller machines in the post war building boom. To be sure, you have a treasure there. I would love to see her running.
 
G
#6 ·
The serial # shown makes your machine a 1955. That's quite a welder! Looks like it needs a little elbow grease to get it right again. Good luck!
 
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M
#7 ·
Don't know your age. Are you familiar w/ the operation of the pony motor and especially the operation of the clutch and pinion to make the pony turn the main engine? I worked w/ these type of Cat engines long ago, so if you have questions I'll try to dig deep in my memory banks to get answers.
Mike
 
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#8 ·
You and me both. I went through a D-318 on a good sized Gardner Denver air compressor about 3 months ago. Been sitting 20 years, but after a considerable amount of TLC she fired right up. The carburetor on the starting engine was the biggest pita, I just made my own gaskets. One warning on these old engines, MAKE SURE THE FUEL PUMP RACK IS NOT STUCK! It's just a habit with me to check for that sort of thing, runaway diesels are not cool.
 
M
#9 ·
When 12V71 mentioned fuel, something came back to me. I see evidence of oil leakage on the injection pump, so unscrew the slot head plug on the bottom of the pump. The oil level should be at the top of the opening and about the consistency of 10 wt. If it's really thin drain it and refill w/ 10 wt. This pump has it's own oil supply so should be checked on a regular basis. If the pump has internal fuel leaks and it runs over when the plug is removed it needs to be drained and refilled.
Mike
 
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M
#12 ·
Looks like you're old enough to know most everything about it. Regarding the pony clutch and pinion, if you pull the clutch handle hard opposite of engagement the clutch brake will stop everything from clashing gears and the pinion has to be held in position while cranking and as soon as the main starts, release the pinion handle. At least that's how the 8800's, 342'S and 353's I worked w/ worked. They were all stationary engines we used to power rock crushers.
Mike
 
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D
#14 ·
You just have to love old mechanical diesels. If you have air and fuel, and they turn over, chances are they run.
 
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W
#23 ·
Thanks so far, i'm learning. I'm concerned about how dirty looking the commutators got when i went 2 inspect it. i was able to turn the engine over a have a half turn 2 see if it was locked up. I noted the armature turned too and the brushes seemed to be leaving a dark residue on the commutator "see photos". I stopped turning the engine by hand at that point. My concerns about the commutators and possible dry armature bearings are the reasons why i disconnected the welder from the engine. Are the armature bearings sealed? Its been sitting a long time. What do i call the welder part of the machine, sa-300x2?
 
9
#24 ·
your welder(s) are sae-300's by the looks of things, with one exciter.

the exciter is foreign to me, but the main generators are pretty generic as far as i know. the difference between sa and sae machines as far as i know is in the coarse or main current control. the sae uses a . . . . .reactor? (cant think of word) that can be set in infinite increments, instead of a 4 or 5 position switch to choose rough operating amperage. the "fine" or "job selector" in your case controls ocv and as a side effect, affects output amperage. it is sourced off the exciter and controls (through a simple rheostat) the amount of juice sent to the shunt coils in the main generator, which decide how much juice the main generator will put out.

exciter has permanent magnets, but they can go "dead". they can be refreshed via the link i sent you. the main generator(s) use electro-magnetism, from the exciter, to generate power. no exciter= no generator.

so the welder part of this machine is very similar to the engine part. there is the main power-source, but it cant work without the pony-motor to get it going (exciter). the pony motor only works if the battery (magnets) is charged and able to start the cycle
 
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P
#25 ·
Essentially you just have two SAE 300 welders. The commutator bars can be cleaned up easily with 320 or finer grit sandpaper. It's easier if the brush racks are off and out of the way. The dark residue is just carbon that the brush is made of. On the subject of brushes, your 4th picture shows what appears to be a missing brush and springs. But without knowing how this machine was originally configured I can't say for sure. I wouldn't be immediately concerned with the bearing(s). If it turns, I'd leave them alone until you verify it will even weld. I'd venture to say the brushes need to be removed and the holders cleaned up so they will slide in and out. There's a real possibility you will need to flash the fields to make it weld if it has sat for an extended period of time.

Getting ahead of things though. Let's dig in on that missing brush or is this correct for the twin setup?

Well dang, 92 above beat me by 3 minutes. :laugh:
 
9
#26 ·
it looks like the "missing brush" is on the exciter. . . .which was apparently made in spanish cause i dont understand it. . . . . . .

ive jumped a few times scrolling down and seeing it that way, but it was apparently run for a while like that so im guessing its factory. . . . . kind of weird
 
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S
#27 ·
If you consider cleaning up the commutator with sandpaper do not use emery cloth!! The abrasive is conductive and will wreak havoc with the machine electrically if used and not cleaned out thoroughly. When I mean thorough, I don't think you could clean it up sufficiently and it remain together.

Best purchase a commutator stone to dress this item.
 
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