We Need An SA-200 Info/FAQ Sticky

[Tuscany]

I don't think it's been mentioned yet but here it goes. To save yourself the same problem of sourcing a new crank pulley cause no matter what you did yours got bent in the process of removal. Take a 5/8" nut and weld it directly to the crank pulley after removing the crank pulley nut. Then take a piece of 5/8" all thread that matches the nut threads and thread it all the way in til it bottoms out. Weld another nut on the end of that and hit it with an impact gun. Never bend another crank pulley again. Once the pulley is off cut the nut off and grind it smooth.

[old jupiter]

(I posted this on a site for old cars first)

If you have an orphan with a waterpump that needs fixing, and you can't get a kit for it, contact Bob Lawrence in Albany, Oregon.

The waterpump on the old Continental F162 flathead four that powers my 1954 Lincoln SA200 shorthood welder needed fixing or replacing. I couldn't locate a rebuild kit, and re-man pumps were selling for $115 to $150 or more, plus frieght. I was starting to dismantle the pump to see if I could just make do with bearings and seals and home-made gaskets, when my machine-shop-owning pal said to phone Bob in Oregon. "Forty five bucks, and give me eight or nine bucks for freight," said Bob. He did my pump in one day, did a great job which included a new shaft and a mounting gasket. My shop guy says everybody he refers to Bob is happy with the work and the service.

I tried to give Bob a small tip. He wouldn't take it.

Titan Rebuilders, Inc. Water pumps, starters, alternators.
755 E Water St
Albany, OR 97321

Tel. (503) 926-6709

[Alberta Farmer]

Anyone have a source for the Marvel TSX gaskets on their own (the one between the 2 cast halves)? Can't find a reliable source for that gasket individually. Anyone cut their own?

Bruce

[thinktwicez71]

needed a new fuel strainer / filter with shutoff valve part for my 69 redface , went to tractor supply with the old one and got an exact copy of it , looks identical and installed perfectly.

part # 0237021 $29.99

[duaneb55]

(I posted this on a site for old cars first)

If you have an orphan with a waterpump that needs fixing, and you can't get a kit for it, contact Bob Lawrence in Albany, Oregon.

The waterpump on the old Continental F162 flathead four that powers my 1954 Lincoln SA200 shorthood welder needed fixing or replacing. I couldn't locate a rebuild kit, and re-man pumps were selling for $115 to $150 or more, plus frieght. I was starting to dismantle the pump to see if I could just make do with bearings and seals and home-made gaskets, when my machine-shop-owning pal said to phone Bob in Oregon. "Forty five bucks, and give me eight or nine bucks for freight," said Bob. He did my pump in one day, did a great job which included a new shaft and a mounting gasket. My shop guy says everybody he refers to Bob is happy with the work and the service.

I tried to give Bob a small tip. He wouldn't take it.

Titan Rebuilders, Inc. Water pumps, starters, alternators.
755 E Water St
Albany, OR 97321

Tel. (503) 926-6709

Mr. Lawrence is top notch quality people. Great service and few his equal when it comes to being helpful. Can supply the parts for or rebuild your water pump. Does alternator and starter work too. No carburetors though.

Area code listed by old jupiter is obsolete though. Should be 541. Give him a call.

[60redfacer]

pl747
WeldingWeb Apprentice Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 14


Re: F163 parts - online sources?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The early F163 engines used two left tanged rod bearings and two right hand tanged rod bearings. The later F163 rod bearings were all right hand tanged. They won't interchange. Also some had different thickness piston rings. Same bore but different thicknesses. Probably best to look at them and measure. I don't know where the year break was between them.

[circlecranch]

Size-Diameter 5/16" 3/8" 7/16" 1/2" 9/16" 5/8"
Cylinder Heads ..... 35-.lO 70-75 100-110 130-140 145-155
Main Bearing Caps _. :~5-.10 70-75 85-95 110-120 I d0-150
Connecting Rods 20-25 .lo-.15 55-60 90-100 110-120
Flywheels 20-25 35-40 70-75 85-95 100-110 145-155
Manifolds 15-20 25-3(I 40-50 50-60 50-60 (;0-70
Rear Covers, Water Pumps,
Front and Rear End Plates 15-20 25-30 50-55 80-90
Oil Pans 12-16 12-16 .............................
Flywheel IIousings 15-20 25-30 50-55 80-90 115-125 _
Camshaft Nut
Thread Size
(;.I. Shafts
Forged Steel Shafts
Elastic Stop Nut w.’C.1.
or Forged Steel Shaft
¾" ?h" 1" 1%" 1 ¼"
65-7O_# 7()-8()~- 95-100:~ 125-130-~. 115-15(Igg
l, 175-180-~
*When Cam Gear Governor is used with a steel camshaft, torque cam nut to 85-90~
\
Those are the torque specs for the different bolt sizes.

Chris

[circlecranch]

Torque Specifications for Cylinder Head
Tightening Sequence in Foot Pounds
Size - Diameter
3/8 7/16 1/2 9/16 5/8
Cylinder Heads
35-40 70-75 100-110 130-140 145-155

[gizzardgutz]

These are threads that contain valuable information about rebuilding or maintaining the SA 200 that I think need included in the sticky thread. The only way I could figure out how to do this is to copy & paste the links to the threads here.

SA 200 Disassembly
http://www.aws.org/cgi-bin/mwf/topic_show.pl?tid=19023

Removing the Exciter
http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...citer+armature

Operation & OCV
http://www.aws.org/cgi-bin/mwf/topic_show.pl?tid=27707

Front Main Seal & Speedy Sleeve
http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...200+front+seal

1 Wire Alternator & Wiring
page 2 starting post # 44
http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...200+front+seal

PC Board Differences
post # 31
http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...hlight=200+ocv

Worn Armature Commentator
http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...hlight=200+ocv

Pierce Governor Tear Down & Rebuild
http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...vernor+rebuild

Hoof Governor Maintenance
http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...vernor+rebuild

R-57 Idler Wiring
http://www.aws.org/cgi-bin/mwf/topic_show.pl?tid=29002

Grind Eze Wiring
http://www.aws.org/cgi-bin/mwf/topic_show.pl?tid=30413

Remote Rheostat Wiring
http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...emote+rheostat

[duaneb55]

. . . and don't forget about ones such as these:

F-162/163 Water Pump Rebuild
http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...ght=water+pump

Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal/Replacement
http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=97111

Proper T-stat Installation
http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=83131

. . . to name a few more.

[gizzardgutz]

I knew there were more, search function doesn't get along well with me. I was lucky to find what I did! I think we all need to add whatever threads we believe are relevant, what we have here is quite a selection of great information.

[57 Long Hood]

Do you know thepoints setting for the SA200 . I dont know the year I just got it and I am tring to get it going .

A paper cigarette pack will be work for a feeler guage in a bind...couldn't get her started the day of a test.Closed points to that after a quick clean with emery cloth and never looked at again for months.

[tignot]

rebuilding a 64 SA 200 can anyone tell me what idler control update is the best? i'm also wondering if i should stay with oil bath or upgrade air filter system

[hobohilton]

rebuilding a 64 SA 200 can anyone tell me what idler control update is the best? i'm also wondering if i should stay with oil bath or upgrade air filter system

----------------------------------
Changing out the original oil bath air filter will lower the re-sale value of your machine. If you upgrade the air cleaner, hang on to the original. It's worth it's weight in gold at re-sale time.

[hobohilton]

Anyone have a source for the Marvel TSX gaskets on their own (the one between the 2 cast halves)? Can't find a reliable source for that gasket individually. Anyone cut their own?

Bruce

-----------------

Look around here. He sells individual parts.

http://www.mcdonaldcarb.com/category_s/73.htm

[tignot]

----------------------------------
Changing out the original oil bath air filter will lower the re-sale value of your machine. If you upgrade the air cleaner, hang on to the original. It's worth it's weight in gold at re-sale time.

ok i appreciate the info, thnx alot DT

[tignot]

does anyone have any ideas, or advice on how to and how much you con chop a sa 200 and keep the original fan? some told about 5" i think . DT

[Lake]

Carb kit for ZENITH carb, SA 200 green light machine. NAPA 2-1565.

[OLD WELDER MECHANIC]

If you want "hard to find" info-all the little crap and scraps of info that nobody seems to know about or if they know they won't share with you; check out this link:

http://www.weldmart.com/main/technical/index.htm

Everything on the page is free, you can download it, print it off, and use it. This guy has the best replacement idle board on the market-2 year warranty and LED's to tell if the board is working or not.

I have stopped using "cheap" idle boards from Weldtron and cheap crap boards from that guy in Lousiana. My comebacks have gone away.

Good Luck from an Old Fart Mechanic

[OLD WELDER MECHANIC]

pl747
WeldingWeb Apprentice Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 14


Re: F163 parts - online sources?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The early F163 engines used two left tanged rod bearings and two right hand tanged rod bearings. The later F163 rod bearings were all right hand tanged. They won't interchange. Also some had different thickness piston rings. Same bore but different thicknesses. Probably best to look at them and measure. I don't know where the year break was between them.

Partner you have a F-162 engine-not a F163. Lower end parts are getting harder and harder to find. There are no new camshafts for the welder engines (FYI-they were all cast iron and if you torque the nut to 70pounds-like the manual says-they shear off-torque them to 25pounds and use some good thread lock.

You might try Chris or Larry @ Weldmart (1-800-460-6474) www.weldmart.com
or Bill @ Bill's Welder Repair in OK.

Make sure you have the crankbearing shell in front of you and know what size you need. IF you haven't measured the crankshaft bearings and are going back with standard size. Save you money and go the Las Vegas-the money will last longer and you'll have more fun.

Get rid of that crap oil bath air cleaner-an old dirty sock with do a better job! I will not warrant and engine rebuild with the oilbath air cleaner on the engine!

[kolot]

In post #67 I goofed on the Radiator cap, Murray 7007 is for a thermostat housing gasket.

Radiator cap is a Stant # 10206 and fits the 60's Red face machines, maybe others.

[user 9328330]

In reference to post #34 - the hand drawing showing plug wire order for the Fairbanks-Morse magneto - the mag end of this wire order is not correct for my Fairbanks-Morse mag. The drawing shows the #1 tower as being the top inner tower, but my cap is marked #1 on the top outer tower. If you hook your F-M mag up according to post #34 and you get a no-start, look closer at your cap for a "1" marking, and use that as your guide, going clockwise in a 1-3-4-2 order.

This is assuming you've timed off of cylinder #4 as the manual says to.

[Alaska Marty]

Just found a source for modern spec, braided cloth covered wire.
http://brillman.com/store/12-gauge-c...ided-wire.html
They have a lot of other cool stuff there too.

Alaska Marty

I coppied this from another post of mine, thought it would help out in the sticky.

[rjm]

Just opened up the fairbanks X mag to change points & condenser, noticed I need cap and rotor too. I also noticed there was some oil in the bottom of the area where the points are, there is a gasket between the points cover and the mag body, it would be nice to get a new one of these too.

Does anyone have numbers I can use to start my search?

[duaneb55]

Mr. Lawrence is top notch quality people. Great service and few his equal when it comes to being helpful. Can supply the parts for or rebuild your water pump. Does alternator and starter work too. No carburetors though.

Area code listed by old jupiter is obsolete though. Should be 541. Give him a call.

Update:

It was reported to me that Bob Lawrence at Titan Rebuilders has closed up shop. No idea why but a great source for F-162/163 water pump rebuild kits and rebuilds is apparently gone.

That said, here's another one that I recommend - http://www.waterpumpkit.com/home.html (John Hudson).

Complete kit runs only $49.50 and comes with the new style one piece seal. If you don't already have one, John will include a seal installation tool to assure getting it positioned on the shaft and seated in the pump housing correctly

Kit also includes 4 new rear cover screws but their bolt holes in the pump housing have to be countersunk to accept them as the bolts aren't relieved at the shank same as the originals. The proper size countersink works best but the appropriate drill bit would do the job in a pinch.

Kit impeller is a stamped steel version rather than cast, 1 new bearing retainer snap ring and the necessary cover and block gaskets round out the kit.