question for Hobart 210MVP owners

[wicked4x4]

Not sure if you understand this or not. Multivoltage machines like the MM211/HH210MVP are limited to 1/8" steel under real world conditions, when run on 110v power despite what the manufacturers might list in their literature.. To get even that, they need to be run on a dedicated 20 amp outlet. On standard 15 amp outlets with other items drawing power, you'll be limited to maybe 14/16 ga. The only way you will do solid quality welds over 1/8" is on a 230v outlet. Many guys don't really understand this. Yes the machine amy make "pretty" welds on thicker material on 110v power, but you lack the output to get good penetration into the base material.

yep, i get that, and thanks for looking out for me on that.
i do understand that in 110v mode, either of these machines is basically their 110v counterpart (MM140 or HH140). i do also understand the power needs of even the little machines, as i've used my friend's MM135 on a 15amp plug AND standard extension cord, so i experienced its lack of power, and remedied immediately.

[Dan]

Thanks Dan.
I'm definitely looking to cover a range from sheet metal to 1/4". Anything thicker would be few and far between, thus not needing a larger and more expensive unit. I figure this unit being 'rated'for 3/8 would better than cover my needs. I am definitely leaning towards HH210MVP at this point, unless I trip on a killer deal for a MM211 on Craigslist.

All input and feedback appreciated.

Another question for you that own or have used the 210. In my research I've seen everywhere that MM's are made stronger and some better components and are geared for industrial use, where the HH's cut a few corners (little less metal and little more plastic) and are geared towards consumers and hobbiests...do any of you think or feel that the HH's seem cheap or chincey? I've never heard anyone ever actually complain about that.

Several components used on the 210 MVP and the MM 211 are the same. A few examples would be the drive roll, spool hub, filter capacitor, and gun. The transformer and choke aren't identical, but they are constructed the same way. If I am remembering correctly, the Chief Engineer at Hobart, who I communicate with frequently, told me the Hobart units are put through the same destructive testing as the Miller units. In my opinion the 210 MVP is built rugged enough to stand up to the same work enviroment that a MM 211 would be able to handle. The only reason I can see why the MM 211 gets its light industrial badge would be because of the variable voltage dial.

[wicked4x4]

thanks for the info dan, very helpful. i am really leaning toward that unit, based on the info i've gotten here, also my friend putting his little HH120 through torture and it keeps him happy, and the price is a bonus too.

...the Chief Engineer at Hobart, who I communicate with frequently...

...so, you could get me a good deal on one of these units, wholesale price?

[mrbreezeet1]

When I bought my Hobart MVP a couple of months ago I was really wanting a Miller 211 MVP as I had just sold my Miller 140 Autoset. With the 210 and 211 being so similar I wasn't willing to pay a big premium for the Miller. In my area I could not find a price on the Miller withing 100 bucks of the Hobart so I went with the Hobart. I have done quite a lot of welding with the 210 MVP and have been very pleased with it so far.

Older thread l know, but is the Hobart 210 still holding up well, and doing well for you?

[mrbreezeet1]

Also, this Hobart 210, does it do well, on thin sheet metal, say 22 gauge?

Not sure if you understand this or not. Multivoltage machines like the MM211/HH210MVP are limited to 1/8" steel under real world conditions, when run on 110v power despite what the manufacturers might list in their literature.. To get even that, they need to be run on a dedicated 20 amp outlet. On standard 15 amp outlets with other items drawing power, you'll be limited to maybe 14/16 ga. The only way you will do solid quality welds over 1/8" is on a 230v outlet. Many guys don't really understand this. Yes the machine amy make "pretty" welds on thicker material on 110v power, but you lack the output to get good penetration into the base material.

On that note, Since on thicker metal, I am better off using 220 volts, so when doing thin sheet metal, am I better off running the machine on 110 volt?

[DSW]

The machine will run thin material just fine off 220v power. Being a tapped machine, you might find the taps a bit easier to use on 110v power, but I doubt it's enough I'd bother to change the machine from 220v in the shop.

22 ga is getting in the tough range with standard mig. It's doable, but the techniques will be quite different than you'd use to weld say even 1/16" steel. Burn thru will be very easy, so you'll need to do short welds or tacks, move around to prevent heat build up, using backing or chill bars etc to have success. Also fit up is going to have to be perfect and joint design will play a large part of your success.

[mrbreezeet1]

The machine will run thin material just fine off 220v power. Being a tapped machine, you might find the taps a bit easier to use on 110v power, but I doubt it's enough I'd bother to change the machine from 220v in the shop.

22 ga is getting in the tough range with standard mig. It's doable, but the techniques will be quite different than you'd use to weld say even 1/16" steel. Burn thru will be very easy, so you'll need to do short welds or tacks, move around to prevent heat build up, using backing or chill bars etc to have success. Also fit up is going to have to be perfect and joint design will play a large part of your success.

Thank You, I too an trying to decide between the Miller 211 or the HH 210 MVP, but looks like the HH210 MVP will do me just as well.

[wicked4x4]

I guess I never did reply with what I ended up with, at least not on this thread.
I got the HH210, and love it. Have used it in the 110v mode (and is amazingly more smooth and consistent than using my friends Miller135), and in the 220v mode. I would recommend and buy it again.
I've not tried welding anything smaller than 20ga, so I can't speak to that. I've had no problem whatsoever with penetration into 1/4" with different types of joints.
Good luck, can't go wrong with the HH210 in my opinion.

[mrbreezeet1]

probably end up saving up for that one. (Hobart 210 MVP)
Are you using a 30 Amp breaker for you 220 volt?
How thick is sheet metal on most cars today? Or say cars from 2000-2010?
I have a little century 117-070 and it has a small mig bottle. I might keep the Bottle and try to sell the welder. It's 90 amp I am pretty sure.
I wonder if the little century is worth $100.00 with out the bottle?

[mrbreezeet1]

Is the ground clamp OK on these?
Looks sort of like a jumper cable. I thought I had read you should replace it, may have been another welder though.

I noticed this replacement gun, says,
#245926 H100S4-10 Replacement MIG Gun
For .030 - .035 in. (0.8 - 0.9 mm) wire. Includes 10 ft. cable.
I can run .024 wire in this too right?

[A_DAB_will_do]

The work clamp is pretty light weight with these smaller MIG machines. Most folks replace them with something more substantial; I think a solid work clamp helps with good arc starts.

yes, you can run 0.024" wire through that gun. Might be a little sloppy with the oversized liner. Ihaven't tried 0.024" in my MM211, so I don't know for sure. the Miller has basically the same gun. If the loose fit with the liner is a problem, you might be able to get a smaller liner that is an exact fit for 0.024" wire. Check with your local welding supplier.

[mrbreezeet1]

OK, sounds good, Thanks,
Do the HH210's need a different drive roller for .024?

[Dan]

A new Handler 210 MVP no longer comes with the work clamp shown in the picture you posted. The work clamp shown in my attachment is what comes currently with a 210 MVP. I had zero performance issues with the machine using this clamp, so I personally wouldn't waste money on another clamp until the condition of the supplied clamp becomes poor.


.023/.024 wire will run through the supplied .030/.035 gun liner just fine. The unit come with an .030/.035 drive roll, so you will need to purchase a drive roll that has an .023 groove. Of course you'll need .023 contact tips too.

[mrbreezeet1]

OK Dan, sounds good,
Thank You.

[wicked4x4]

ya, mine came with the cheap jumper cable style clamp. looks like i purchased a bit before a decent upgrade. i've thought about changing out the clamp, but never had an issue, i can usually get a good enough bite, though, i will eventually upgrade the ground.

i've run .024 and .030 wire just fine through mine, but i did need to purchase a second roller for the smaller wire. never noticed any type of issue with the smaller wire in that liner, nor heard of anyone else having that type of issue.

as far as the question about the breaker size for the 220v, i honestly don't remember. i think it was a 30a, but don't recall. i remember calling hobart support to ask them and i put in their recommended breaker size.

[mrbreezeet1]

Yeah, I think l read they upgraded the wire feed too.
30 amp would be nice, as I already have the wire.
Thank you.

[jamesyarbrough]

Same machine except the miller isnt tapped. Go with the hobart or save for a MM252

[mrbreezeet1]

as far as the question about the breaker size for the 220v, i honestly don't remember. i think it was a 30a, but don't recall. i remember calling hobart support to ask them and i put in their recommended breaker size.

Yeah, I have seen several threads where they said 30 Amp breaker/AWG/10 was enough for that machine.
Also recommended 50 amp, in case you want to use bigger welder or other machine.

[rustydeathtrap]

i am seriously considering getting one of these 210mvp this week! but i do wonder if theres a better choice at that price with a dedicated 240v unit?
basicly what am i paying extra to get the dv option?

also i am used to more quality type machines coming standard with a euro torch lance fitting. this hh is clearly a good unit but why no eurotorch?

[stanward]

I own this HH 210MVP and love it very much. I upgraded from a HH190. Reason why I upgraded was the fact that the 210 had the built in spool gun controller. The 190 required you to buy an expensive controller.

I run my welder with 50A breaker (fed from 6AWG wire, and that was very expensive).

The set voltage settings do not bother me at all. The Miller version is very expensive here, and I was lucky to get the 210 off of Amazon.com for cheap!

[jamesyarbrough]

i am seriously considering getting one of these 210mvp this week! but i do wonder if theres a better choice at that price with a dedicated 240v unit?
basicly what am i paying extra to get the dv option?

also i am used to more quality type machines coming standard with a euro torch lance fitting. this hh is clearly a good unit but why no eurotorch?

Cause MURICA! Thats why

[Albie]

Purchased a MM211 a few years ago, upgrading from a Millermatic 130. Mainly using it for body panel auto restoration. I like the infinite voltage adjustment. I am only a novice welder, but it seems to help me out when I move from a 120v to a 240v receptacle. Autoset feature is only for .030 or .035 wire and when i did need to weld 1/8 or heavier stock width .030, I just dialed it in.

[AKweldshop]

I've used both.

They both weld pretty nice.

Your choice mate.

[GYPSY400]

I was on the fence too about these two machines.. But the HH210 came on sale at TSC Which made it $500 cheaper than the MM211.. Pretty hard to justify the auto set feature for that much money. I should be getting my unit in the next week or so.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[IRQVET]

Both machines are excellent, but I value quality as well as good value. So for me, I went with the Hobart because the Miller was too rich for my blood as a hobbyist.

But if I'm being completely honest, I was going from a Chinese built machine so going to one of the "Big 3" (Miller, Hobart, Lincoln) was a huge improvement no matter which one I picked, lol.