1936 SA200 Restoration

[andex]

Armeture Bracket removed and all looks good on the inside.

Note the Armeture Bearing cup plate behind the bearing.

[andex]

Main Brush holder/ Rocker ( Rack)



From the lack of wear on the Main Armeture comunicator I'll bet these are the original brushes. The brush tention springs are still in the first notch

[andex]

Generator Housing is next



Without a hitch, Rolling it along the rails

[andex]

Fan End of Armeture




Note all the coils protruding

[andex]

It's Off



and looking good.

[andex]

Just like Bill said. I just wiggled it with some pull to the rear and it slid rite out.

[andex]

Now we can all see what the infamous " Lord Bearing " is...and is not.

By definition it is a vibration isolation / shock mount.

Here we can see that on the end of the Armeture are 6 pins and a ball bearing. Mounted to the Crankshaft is a flange with 6 holes lined with rubber grommets and a counterbore for the ball bearings to seat in.

This also helps to explain the reason for the Armeture Bearing nut and the use of multiple washer/shims.

[andex]

Thats it till next time.

[shortfuse]

Pretty cool the way you pulled it off using shims and pipe for rollers. No swinging hoist to get in the way and worry about.

Great series of pictures.

[jcp]

I'm impressed with your tooling adaptations. Excellent pics also. Thanks for sharing.

[andex]

Kolot
I missed your question in post a while back

"What is the earliest version of the SA 200. I mean what year was it first built and what did it have for components? "

I am not a Lincoln historian by any means but this is what I have been able to piece together.

The engine driven SA200 was introduced in 1932, powered by the Waukesha FC12
This configuration was in production until 1938.
What were the differences from 1932 - 1938 ? There were no Code#s kept if there were.
If we look at Lincolns Serial number chart the D- prefix is listed from 1932 - 1938, but I have a photo of a of serial# D-19536 which should be a 1940 machine.
This would corrospond to the Serial# list posted on Bills Welder repair showing the D- prefix running thru 1941.
Fun isn't it? But I digress.

I can only verify what is on my 36.
On the generator end I have to say the machine work and assembley is of a very high quality. Design wise, in basic form things havnt really changed much since 1936.

The Generator is rated on the plate as 200amp, 40 volt, 1400 rpm.
Controls are a 4 position selector with a rheostat for fine control.
vacume bellows idle control, with a manual overide.

The Engine
Familiar to many a farm and industrial application in its day. The Crankcase is the same as that used in many a tractor as it would have been part of the tractors framework. Although you have to love those inspection covers with Shield Arc cast into them. It also acts as a mounting point for the radiator assembley. The radiator has Waukesha stamped into the top tank. I will try to remember to get a couple photos of the radiator posted. Simple Thermosyphon type cooling system, no water pump. Hand crank only. There is a provision in the bell housing for a starter but there is no flywheel so no ring gear. Could there have been an option ? I dont think so, the armeture shaft would have had to be shortened in order to accomodate the thickness of the Flywheel. Or a spacer between the bell housing and the generator housing. Hmmm?
I have been wondering if it had a roof and doors. The radiator do's have a lip to accept a hood like on a tractor but there is no other evidence of how or where the other end of the roof would have sat.

There is no outlet for aux power. The exciter appears to have been designed for fine control of the shunt field coils only.

1939 the motor changed to the Hercules IXB. I have not met one in person but from photos the Generator appears to be the same.

[andex]

shortfuse
On other disassemblies I usually had the machine sitting on a pallet and used the back boom and a strap on the backhoe to remove the Generator housing and armature. It has worked well except for having to bend over constantly. I have too many bad discs and vertebrate for that. I had this rack shelving behind the container and figured I would give it a try. Turns out it's the bawls. Even got me to thinking, I will do a little modification to one of the uprights. Add some bracing and a short jib so I can lift and swing assemblies on and off without the need for the machine. Being able to crib things up and roll them off was sweet. I’ll get to it by sometime in the next....

[Alaska Marty]

Excellent documentation of your restoration project!! I will follow this thread for sure.

[vic]

Great thread!

It really makes me want to get the ball rolling on mine. I have a 38 with the Hercules IXB. I had the engine running but ran into trouble with the magneto and cant locate parts. The generator end looks identical to what I have. Thanks for all the great information.

[MrBeast]

I am impressed with how you pulled that thing apart, that is some good thinking.

[andex]

7A749
The output cable insulation ( rubber ?) is still plyable but cracked quite extensivley. The rest of the generator has old cloth wrap. It appears to be intact and in good condition.

vic
What are the Serial and code numbers, I would like to add them to the list. Have you got any photos to post? You could start a thread and post away. What magneto are you looking for parts for?

jcp, Alaska Marty, MrBEAST and others
Thanks for the pos. comments.

[andex]

Information needed;
While I am still in the process of disassembly I am questioning, what is the best approach to the generator?
I can and have turned boat anchors into running engines but generator restoration is fairly new to me. I want to do it rite, once.

So what is the "best" way?

1. Leave it the way it is. dont touch anything unless it needs to be fixed.

As the sticker on my tool box says " If it Works don't Fix it". Sometimes I thinks it should have had the word Stupid added to the end.

2. Test the coils for continuity and ohms values.
a. What should the ohms values be?

3. have it baked and ....

4. ?

[andex]

Got in a few hours after work tonight. I started on removing the top of the Bellhousing. didn't look like much but it was put together well

[andex]

6 bolts on the inside



and 4 on eachside outside.

[andex]

and this pin. After trying to lift the section off an having no luck I measured th pin hi and low and found it to be tapered. I pushed them out top to bottom and that did the trick.

[andex]

And its off.
As I was lifting it off I noticed that it had a very thin paper gasket between the top of the block and the casting. Why? after a little cleanup and inspection I found out why. To the right of the crank flange at the 1 0'clock position , thats the end of the camshaft. No freeze plug to seal it.

[andex]

How the human eye can miss things. I finally noticed the pointer and timming marks on the crank flange.

[andex]

After removing all the crankcase screws and another tapered pin I was able to seperate the front of the block from the crankcase. But the rear was still resisting. I will have to remove the crank flange as it looks like there is a seal retainer behind it thats bolted to the crankcase.

But take a look in this photo, there are a couple of things to note first is that the oil in the cylinders is starting to turn to mud. Nature and patience have joined together and work with me this time.
Second thing of note and it is a milestone for this project. I was able to work all the valves up without breaking, cutting or melting anything to do it.


I was also able to free all the lifters

Oh the joy.




Time for dinner..

[MinnesotaDave]

Those little tapered pins would be easy to miss. I may have resorted to "big hammer" thinking

Dave J.

[Wolf]

I'm sure everybody knows this, but. I would definitely bake that generator before dipping, spraying,brushing any glyptol in there. We all know about trapped moisture in there. If the insulation is bad on those leads, it really isn't that bad to solder new ones on. I just did it to a 58, I know its easier to shrink tube them, but most of the time the copper is degrading also. I admire the way you document your projects, you have many talents. Alot of people can do this stuff, not many can convey it to others. That and most others take pictures in the middle of projects, and it looks as if a bomb has gone off around them, for all the parts, tools and general mess. You look like you run Andex Surgery and Welder Repair Clinic.