weldanpower 225/210/6 won't start

[gts105]

I have a weldanpower model # 326437/0375-01/8101051 that I got about a year ago that was pretty much in mint condition. It always ran fine, started fine,welded fine, generated fine. I was going to use it the other day and the thing wouldn't start. Got gas but no spark. I am totally new to these welders, as a matter of fact, this is my first welder and I am a little intimidated to just dig into it without wiring diagrams or some sort of tangible help in my hands. The last time I used it , it was as a generator when our power was out for about 12 hr. but that shouldn't have anything to do with starting. I'm lost and confused, can anybody help?

[ecerna64]

Have you checked the points( clean contacts and adjust) if the points are good then a bad magneto coil is the possible cause for no spark.

[gts105]

Thanks for the reply. Is there a way to check the coil without removing the engine shroud. I mounted the welder in the bed of an old military 6x6 and turned the bed into a trailer to be towed by my atv. When I want to take it on longer trips I made a trailer the trailer fits into so I can tow it with my truck. But,,, to remove the engine shroud will take a bit of work unfortunately. I added some pics. of the way it is sitting right now as I tear my hair out trying to figure out how this works. The little welder trailer has a sliding hitch that will come out to get it out of the way. I'm planning on putting one on the larger trailer to so it will be a little easier to maneuver when backing up. The ATV bed came with the compartments on the sides as stock items.

[duaneb55]

How long since you last ran it? Check the points as ecerna64 suggested and don't rule out a bad condenser. Being just under that little aluminum cover and subject to moisture, it's not unusual for the points to "grow" a crust that doesn't conduct electricity resulting in no spark.

[gts105]

Thanks for the reply duaneb55, I last ran it less than a month ago when our power went out for about 12hrs, and it ran fine. I live in Arizona where it is to dry for to long then monsoons come an give us to much rain, etc., etc. so it is possible I suppose that moisture got in somewhere and messed with something. I am just going to have to budget time to tear into it more and check it out. The points look good and the condenser seems to be O.K.. Maybe the coil moved and shorted out? I think I can get new points , condenser, and coil for less than $100.00, get them on there way (no place to buy something like that around here) and be in and out and maybe have some spare parts for next time around.

[duaneb55]

If I'm not mistaken that should have a B&S so I don't know why I was thinking Kohler. It's obvious from the photo it's not an Onan.

Again, don't rule out the condenser as it's rare you can see anything physically wrong with a bad one. I don't have the coil resistance values handy but you can check for an open in the coil windings with an ohm meter.

[gts105]

Yes it's a B&S 16hp. I wonder if the coil, points,etc. are the same as a 12hp? I know where there is an old 12hp tiller I can maybe go and strip. I think I can make time today to get the welder off the trailer,under the hoist,and move welder back enough on the trailer to remove the shroud and see what's going on. I originally thought these ignitions were wired like auto ignitions for some reason. Now I understand they are mag systems and they don't" power up" when you turn the switch on. You crank it and it generates it own power and you must ground it to turn it off. I am not a brainiac when it comes to electrical problems.

[gts105]

Well it is a fried coil. It looks like it was rubbing but I don't see why that would actually cause it to short out.... Unless the vibes shook something loose. Has anyone ever tried a solid state module ignition coil? The guy says it does away with the condenser and points.

[Winmac]

If you really need the coil, get the electronic one but make sure its the most recent updated part#

[gts105]

I opted for the original style coil. I installed it and found that it rubbed slightly at the same spot as the other coil did so I gave the coil just a little more clearance and it purrs like a kitten now( well sorta). Thanks for the encouragement . My fears were for naught, it was quite simple.

[Pipeliner]

Good to hear - probably good for another 1,000 hours.

[kolot]

I have 2 of these, I looked into swapping to the electonic ignition once, called the "Magnetron" but you have to change the flywheel also I was told. Anyone know if this is definately the case?

[gts105]

I don't know but one of the places I talked to referred to it as a bolt on product while another said it wouldn't work on my model. That's why I opted for original.

[wasillashack]

I believe the coil is different for Magnetron. The Briggs Magnetron requires sending the flywheel to Briggs to change "polarity" on the flywheel magnets. Briggs used to offer this service free. Another option is to convert to an electronic ignition module, pretty simple installation, inexpensive and reliable. One version is "Nova II" sold at small engine shops, eBay etc, usually under $25, or stick with the original ignition system. Good luck!

[kolot]

I recently learned that instead of sending the flywheel out to change the polarity, you can reverse the coil, coil will say engine side or outside, you install it opposite of what it is marked and that will get the polarity right. Check out Taryl fixes all on you tube, guy is great. Also , went round and round with my local parts guy, the coil you need to change these over is the lates upgrade, thing is it carries the same part number but looks different, old style will not work. I did end up converting my Briggs, it runs great and I gave it to my son for his house. Sorry, don't have the pictures but if you find Taryl's video on converting and old briggs to electronic ignition, he will spell it all out with part numbers and pictures.

[wasillashack]

I recently learned that instead of sending the flywheel out to change the polarity, you can reverse the coil, coil will say engine side or outside, you install it opposite of what it is marked and that will get the polarity right. Check out Taryl fixes all on you tube, guy is great. Also , went round and round with my local parts guy, the coil you need to change these over is the lates upgrade, thing is it carries the same part number but looks different, old style will not work. I did end up converting my Briggs, it runs great and I gave it to my son for his house. Sorry, don't have the pictures but if you find Taryl's video on converting and old briggs to electronic ignition, he will spell it all out with part numbers and pictures.

"you can reverse the coil", I have seen that also, But I am reluctant to recommend anything anything I have not done, Good luck!