2004 Ranger XLT right rear axle oil seal

[Mondo]

I replaced the rear brakes in my Ranger yesterday, found the right rear axle oil seal has been leaking. More than a weep but not yet a dribble. I want this fixed before snow. Has anyone here any experience with this repair? What is the procedure to pull the right axle from the housing?

2004 Ford Ranger XLT, 4L v6, automatic, 2WD 10" drum brakes

Thanks!

- Mondo

[Mondo]

Why did I ask here? A little searching and I think I found what I need to know:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/10...placement.html

- Mondo

[duaneb55]

Why did I ask here? A little searching and I think I found what I need to know:

Because you always ask family first?

[kidtigger24]

Don't C-clips look like fun?
I may have to do the same on my 05 Blazer.
Retainer style rear axles are just so much easier.


kidtigger24

[TozziWelding]

Not a hard job, get it up on stands, pull the cover, remove the C clips, pull the drums and brake assembly, R&R the seal, and re assemble.

[TozziWelding]

I would do both sides while you have it this far apart.

[mrmikey]

I did a similar job on a Bronce 2 quite awhile ago. The only bad thing was the lock pin broke just below the threaded portion when I tried to remove it. I lucked out and it came out with a magnet. My neighbour had the same thing happen a few months later with the same end result. Maybe pick up a spare lock bolt just in case.....Mike

[dumb as a stump]

BTW there is a seal that replaces the original that has the sealing lip in a slightly different place. I needed this for an aerostar (same thing) a few years ago, that wouldnt seal up due to wear and it solved the problem perfectly. My bud that works at ford gave me the tip but I dont remember the details now. I replaced it and it still leaked, mentioned it to him and he told me what to get. Good luck

[Mondo]

Because you always ask family first?

Right!

Don't C-clips look like fun?

'twas my fear they would be a nusiance. Actually this was a piece of cake. The C-clips are not self-retaining, about 1/8" thick, slide on and off easily. Once the spyder gear shaft is removed bump axle in and the clips practically fall out by themselves, then the axle shafts can be slid right out.

In theory one can do this without bothering to take off the wheel and drum! The axle with the wheel still bolted to the end might be a bit unweildy to handle, and then there may be an issue with a ridge on the edge of the drum not clearing the shoes. I don't recommending doing it this way.

I would do both sides while you have it this far apart.

I agree! Done!

I did a similar job on a Bronce 2 quite awhile ago. The only bad thing was the lock pin broke just below the threaded portion when I tried to remove it....

No broken bolt here! Came out using my 1/4" drive ratchet handle with a socket on an extension. I cleaned it and applied blue Loctite liberally when putting it back in. The next time may prove that I used too much Loctite! Judicious use of a heat gun to soften the adheasive can be helpful in these situations.

BTW there is a seal that replaces the original that has the sealing lip in a slightly different place. I needed this for an aerostar (same thing) a few years ago, that wouldnt seal up due to wear and it solved the problem perfectly....

Good tip, actually. The replacement seal is different - flangless. I set them in until flush with end of axle tube. There is a chance this may leave them running on rough surface outside of where the factory seal sat. If so then I expect I will be doing this again in short order and putting in another set of new seals. There is room behind the seal to the bearing so it could be set further into the tube if necessary. If I have to do this again in short order I will set the next seals in deeper. Right now I am hoping that isn't necessary.

The hardest part of the job is refilling with new oil, I haven't finishd that yet. The parts store had 80W-90 only in quarts with a nozzel cap. I tried using a vinyl hose and squeezing the bottle to push the oil through the hose.. I would have had about as much luck if it were honey. What I need is a pump. I will try using a pump-type oil can with a flexible spout tonight after my day job. The worst that can happen is to aggravate the arthritis in my thumb working the pump! If so I'll just add more rum to my dinner menu.

- Mondo

[Seafarer12]

I always used a pump for lower end oil on an outboard.

C clips aren't bad on the spicers, they are just a pain to change gears in.

[Mondo]

I borrowed the pump from my 2.5 gallon lathe oil jug. Same as used for lower unit oil for the boat.
The lathe is in a different location than the garage... 1/4 mile away and it was getting late on Sunday so I just closed up for the night, went back on Monday and finished up. Next tire rotation I'll check the level and for leaks.

- Mondo