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Thread: Boostinjdm's Trailers

  1. #101
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    You might try putting a battery disconnect switch in the line. Isolate the trailer battery from the truck, I use this on my trailers that require a battery to run whatever accessories with out having to keep the truck running or killing the battery in the truck.
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  2. #102
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    You need a battery isolator.I have one on my car.The isolator keeps my second battery from trying to start the car,but still allows it to charge the second battery.Heavy amp draw is poping the fuse to protect the wiring from melt down.There's an explanation on the link I provided.

    http://www.powerstream.com/battery-isolator.htm

  3. #103
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    The relay is the disconnect. It would be easy enough to leave the truck off when I run the dump/winch, But I know sometime I am going to want to dump and drive at the same time. It doesn't give me any trouble when the trailer batt is kept up, just when it's low. I suppose the cheap way to cure the problem would be to swap out the fuse for a small circuit breaker, but I know breakers have a limited lifetime if tripped too often.

    How do 5th wheel campers deal with this? Do they have an isolator?

    I am looking for something to install on the truck so it will cover any other trailers I may hook to in the future. The batt isolators I am familiar with had heavy wire run to the batt and that just isn't an option. The power is being fed through the trailer plug.
    Last edited by Boostinjdm; 02-22-2010 at 03:51 PM.
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  4. #104
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    No isolator that I know of because you can actually drain the Tow Vehicle's battery if connected via the Trailer/Truck plug and run the 12v needs through the night.

    You should be able to get the Trailer's battery up to charge while driving.

    I have 2- 12v batteries on my trailer and I have run them low enough that they would not start the On Board Genset, connect to my truck and wait a couple mins and have enough juice.
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  5. #105
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Quote Originally Posted by Boostinjdm View Post
    . The power is being fed through the trailer plug.
    That's the biggest problem right there, the wires on your trailer plug are way too small to handle your set up. You're gonna have to step up on the wire size to curb your problem.

    I would still think about a disconnect between the tow vehicle battery and the trailer battery, a dedicated chassis ground (at the rear of the tow vehicle) for the trailer battery is a good idea also.
    I am what I am, Deal with it!

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  6. #106
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Why is the Power being fed through the Trailer plug?

    Isn't the Trailer's battery on the Trailer?

    the Truck should only be supplying the charging power which shouldn't use that much power.
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  7. #107
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Quote Originally Posted by Broccoli1 View Post
    No isolator that I know of because you can actually drain the Tow Vehicle's battery if connected via the Trailer/Truck plug and run the 12v needs through the night.

    You should be able to get the Trailer's battery up to charge while driving.

    I have 2- 12v batteries on my trailer and I have run them low enough that they would not start the On Board Genset, connect to my truck and wait a couple mins and have enough juice.
    What is yours fused at? So you've never popped a fuse from charging alone?
    My name's not Jim....

  8. #108
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Quote Originally Posted by Broccoli1 View Post
    Why is the Power being fed through the Trailer plug?

    Isn't the Trailer's battery on the Trailer?

    the Truck should only be supplying the charging power which shouldn't use that much power.
    I should have said the power for charging is fed through the trailer plug. The trailer has it's own batt to handle the high current draw. I think what is happening is that all is good untill the trailer batt gets low and then it tries to draw off of the truck to make up for it.
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  9. #109
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    I would like to limit the charge wire to 10-15 amps no matter what. I just don't know how to go about that. I suppose that if a low batt won't draw more than that on it's own then I could wire a relay in the trailer to disconnect the charge wire when I turn on the "arm" switch.
    My name's not Jim....

  10. #110
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Quote Originally Posted by Boostinjdm View Post
    I should have said the power for charging is fed through the trailer plug. The trailer has it's own batt to handle the high current draw. I think what is happening is that all is good untill the trailer batt gets low and then it tries to draw off of the truck to make up for it.
    Yeah, that's what I figgered but it shouldn't blow the fuse just from trying to charge.

    I haven't poked my head around in the trailer too much on that side- everything works

    but like I mentioned I have drained the 2 batteries overnight and just plugged back in to my truck, no problem.
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  11. #111
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Something doesn't seem right. We never had that issue with the dump trailer at work like that. I don't have it to look at unfortunately.

    One thing you might think about. My plow motor uses a QD 2 pin heavy plug with a cover for when it's not hooked up. Something like this run to the back of the truck would let you link the truck batts to the trailer with heavy cable that would take the load draw when the trucks running. i've also seen forklift QD's used with heavy cables for jumper cable hookups that are very similar.
    .



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  12. #112
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Quote Originally Posted by ben2go View Post
    You need a battery isolator.I have one on my car.The isolator keeps my second battery from trying to start the car,but still allows it to charge the second battery.Heavy amp draw is poping the fuse to protect the wiring from melt down.There's an explanation on the link I provided.

    http://www.powerstream.com/battery-isolator.htm


    Ben if you want it's easy to set the 2nd battery up for starting. You just need to get a solenoid to link the 2nd battery to the starter. When you turn the key, the ignition triggers both the starter solenoid and the battery solenoid linking the battery to the starter. As soon as you let go and the starter stops and the battery is disconnected again, but will still charge thru the isolator. I had this rigged when I added the 2nd battery to my old suburban.
    .



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  13. #113
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    I know about the heavy wire and QC plugs. That's not what I want, and I don't think it is needed. I don't want ANY large amounts of current passing from truck to trailer or visa versa. Battery isolators work good to prevent from discharging both batteries. That's not the problem I am having.

    Maybe I should ask this in a different way.....How do I limit current to 10-15 amps regardless of demand?
    My name's not Jim....

  14. #114
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    I thought I should take a vid of my trailer while the sun was shining. The camera guy sounds like he needs an afro and a pet squirrel, but other than that I think it came out OK. Enjoy....

    My name's not Jim....

  15. #115
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    DUDE,... GREAT FREAKIN' VID !

    Man, I'd love to see more of these things. They are UNBELIEVABLY informative and gives EVERYONE (not just NEWBS like me) a REALLY EXCELLENT perspective that 'Photos' just can't satisfy.... The commentary really does 'make' the video, as questions are Answered as they come to mind. Incredibly well done man and that DUMP Trailer is FREAKIN' AMAZING !

    Cheers,

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  16. #116
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Very nice, Boostin'. I really like what you've done. The low bed height is a great feature.

    As far as your fuse problem, I don't have the answer to you direct question about limiting current, but if it was mine, I'd think about a battery disconnect between the trailer and truck, and also adding more battery capacity on the trailer. Is there room for another or bigger battery?

    Now at least you blow a fuse before killing the truck battery and needing a jump, but the root problem is not enough capacity for what you are drawing.

    Is it a 7 wire connection at the truck? The center pin usually accepts bigger wire.

  17. #117
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Quote Originally Posted by daddy View Post
    Very nice, Boostin'. I really like what you've done. The low bed height is a great feature.

    As far as your fuse problem, I don't have the answer to you direct question about limiting current, but if it was mine, I'd think about a battery disconnect between the trailer and truck, and also adding more battery capacity on the trailer. Is there room for another or bigger battery?

    Now at least you blow a fuse before killing the truck battery and needing a jump, but the root problem is not enough capacity for what you are drawing.

    Is it a 7 wire connection at the truck? The center pin usually accepts bigger wire.
    It's a 6 round for now. It will be a 7 pin RV type later on when/if I get to build a new bumper.

    I ran a test using one of my other trailers with an onboard battery. It was very low at just over 7 volts. Plugged it into the truck and let it charge for about half an hour. Checked again and the batt was at 8 volts so it was charging. I still had power at the truck plug so the fuse held. My conclusion is that it isn't the charging that's blowing the fuse, it's the trying to run the dump/winch on a low battery with the truck ignition on (my charging relay is triggered by the truck ignition).

    So for now, I will just turn the truck off or unplug the trailer during dumping/winching. When I get a chance to add my volt gauge and change out the switches in the trailer, I will add a relay that breaks the charge wire when the "arm" switch is on. That will make it impossible to draw power off the truck while dumping/winching.
    My name's not Jim....

  18. #118
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Here's another thought: How about a low voltage cut out switch. You might install one of them so that when the trailer battery is low it opens the circuit and doesn't permit the dump or winch to draw anything. Then you fire the truck up and let it charge a bit before using it. I know you said the higher current connection is not an option, but that would solve the problem, at least while the truck was running... Don't mind me, just thinking out loud.

  19. #119
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    What size fuse are you smoking?

    And what is the current draw on the motors? Winch or dump?
    Last edited by daddy; 02-22-2010 at 08:26 PM.

  20. #120
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    10 amp fuse in the charge wire due to the size of the wire.

    I think the winch will draw about 85 amps and the hydraulic pump somewhere around 100. These are at full load. I know from testing in my garage without the truck attached, I can run the bed up and down about a dozen times before the battery struggles. I also know that I can pull a 6000lb forklift onto the trailer using a snatch block and then use the winch to slowly unload it before the battery struggles. To me, that seems like plenty of capacity. I just need to keep from drawing high amps off the truck. I think my relay hooked to the "arm" switch would take care of that. By the way, the batt in the trailer is a fullsize automotive batt. I think I have pics of it earlier on in this thread.
    My name's not Jim....

  21. #121
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Quote Originally Posted by Boostinjdm View Post
    To me, that seems like plenty of capacity. .
    Well, It is and it isn't. It is enough capacity if you will always be able to recharge the battery fully in between uses. So long as you do that it will be fine.

    It sounds to me like your disconnect when the "arm" switch is thrown, will solve your problem for the way you intend to use it. The truck can still be running, and you will be able to dump. The problem is that you have a limited number of dumps, and you are defeating the charge to the battery.

    The other thing is keeping a charge when not using it. Presumably you will tend to use the dump body or winch and then be done with it and park it. A trickle charger might be a good idea. Cheaper than letting the truck idle for an hour!

    I'm curious if one of the smarter guys knows of a reasonable way to leave the charge circuit connected and limit the current like you asked originally.

    Anyone?

  22. #122
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Well, I had a nice long answer written, but forgot to hit the "post" button. Here is the short version...

    I live in the middle of nowhere and there is two places I see needing to use the dump feature. The landfill, about 30min round trip, and the scrapyard, about an hour round trip plus idle time in the yard. The rest of the time the trailer will be treated as a utillity trailer. Lots of road time and very little dumping. The whole reason for the "arm" switch is to disable the winch and dump while going down the highway to prevent an accident. So the amount of time the charge will be defeated will be very short. I use a trailer several times a week, so keeping it topped off shouldn't be a problem. I also make long trips. 5+ hr round trip to my parents' and 6+ hr round trip to my other place. These ought to keep the batt in good shape. I have also considered adding a power outlet to the control box to plug in a spot light or a trickle charger if need be. Right now to charge without the truck, I have to stick a wire in the plug and clamp the charger to that. I really hate doing that....
    My name's not Jim....

  23. #123
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Standard charge circuit needs to be 30 or 40 amp fuse. We use ATC fuses, but any 30 or 40 amp style will work. Your pulling higher than 10 amps during dump & winch cycles easy.
    Last edited by tanglediver; 02-23-2010 at 12:06 AM.
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  24. #124
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Boost
    That is one nice trailer build! I love those fenders sure look like they would hold up well.

  25. #125
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    Re: Boostinjdm's Trailers

    Quote Originally Posted by DSW View Post
    Ben if you want it's easy to set the 2nd battery up for starting. You just need to get a solenoid to link the 2nd battery to the starter. When you turn the key, the ignition triggers both the starter solenoid and the battery solenoid linking the battery to the starter. As soon as you let go and the starter stops and the battery is disconnected again, but will still charge thru the isolator. I had this rigged when I added the 2nd battery to my old suburban.
    Thanks.I know I can do that, but the wiring won't handle the current draw from the high torque mini starter.I have 4ga run to the trunk to charge the battery,and it is dedicated to powering my audio equipment.

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