The heat treat is definitely problematic. I don't have a big container of oil and likely didn't get a good hardness throughout as a result. One of the plans for this year is to up my oil tank to something more like 5 gallons just so I can do larger chunks of metal. I do so little of it that I've just never bothered keeping more than a small ammo can for a quench tank.
Now I'm trying to decide if I want to get a big ammo can like for the 20mm ammo, or something like a fireproof waste can that I can put a metal bucket of oil in. I kinda like the step-on lid lifter of the fireproof waste cans. Makes it quick and easy to do a quench, and keeps it all contained until you need it.
The heat treat is definitely problematic. I don't have a big container of oil and likely didn't get a good hardness throughout as a result. One of the plans for this year is to up my oil tank to something more like 5 gallons just so I can do larger chunks of metal. I do so little of it that I've just never bothered keeping more than a small ammo can for a quench tank.
Now I'm trying to decide if I want to get a big ammo can like for the 20mm ammo, or something like a fireproof waste can that I can put a metal bucket of oil in. I kinda like the step-on lid lifter of the fireproof waste cans. Makes it quick and easy to do a quench, and keeps it all contained until you need it.
I tried doing a heat treat of a 3-4 pound piece of steel a number of years ago in a five gallon bucket of used oil Definitely learned a lesson in what NOT to do lets just say the 10 inch by 5 inch piece of skin the peeled off my forearm afterwards was an eyeopener
Well you know that saying about "dumber than a bag of hammers"?
I'm gonna have the BIGGEST MF'in bag.
I'll show them what DUMB is........emoji23]
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Went rooting through some of my boxes again a while ago found one of my old hammers... a Stanley !!! this one has a long face and almost 90 degree claw!!!
The markings weren't struck very good.. but are readable
Went rooting through some of my boxes again a while ago found one of my old hammers... a Stanley !!! this one has a long face and almost 90 degree claw!!!
If your claw was 90 degrees you'd have a long face too !!!
I just took a pic of these I inherited from
my uncle. I thought more of them had wooden handles but I guess not...
If you were closer I drop you off some broken fingers from the John Deere combine's pickup. The three punches/chisel closest to the pen are made from the pickup fingers and are very tough. The short chisel also accommodates my bad aim with a "handle".
Edit.... that was supposed to be in response to Vaughn's last post. Note to self... 4 am posts are a bad idea on weekends...
Last edited by whtbaron; 3 Days Ago at 06:04 AM.
F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
230 amp Sears AC Stick
Lincoln 180C MIG
Victor Medalist 350 O/A
If you were closer I drop you off some broken fingers from the John Deere combine's pickup. The three punches/chisel closest to the pen are made from the pickup fingers and are very tough. The short chisel also accommodates my bad aim with a "handle".
Edit.... that was supposed to be in response to Vaughn's last post. Note to self... 4 am posts are a bad idea on weekends...
Ha ha, this is what happens when you step into a thread that is getting hammered!!!
So today I came across this bottom hot cut tool. I had put it aside to clean up years ago and had forgotten about it. The head was badly mushroomed and I didn’t even realize until I ground it down that it could also be used as a Hardy tool.
It needs a new handle but I suppose it’s not too critical if it is used as a Hardy tool.
Nothing wrong with the handle on it. It's meant to be held while the striker hits it with a sledge, so having a loose handle is a good thing for the poor sap having to hold it. Less shock and vibration transmitted up the handle that way.
Looks like a good fit in the anvil, but it appears the handle might be absorbing some of the force in the swage block. If that is the case, the handle probably won't last long. Interesting looking weapon...
F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
230 amp Sears AC Stick
Lincoln 180C MIG
Victor Medalist 350 O/A
Looks like a good fit in the anvil, but it appears the handle might be absorbing some of the force in the swage block. If that is the case, the handle probably won't last long. Interesting looking weapon...
Actually I dropped it in that hole for the pic. The next smaller size hole is more appropriate.
Nothing wrong with the handle on it. It's meant to be held while the striker hits it with a sledge, so having a loose handle is a good thing for the poor sap having to hold it. Less shock and vibration transmitted up the handle that way.
The pic doesn't show too well but the handle is broken and only half width.
The pic doesn't show too well but the handle is broken and only half width.
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But it's almost the right shape for being sideways when you put it in the swage block... hmmm..... maybe there's a market (albeit a very very small one) for sideways handles...
F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
230 amp Sears AC Stick
Lincoln 180C MIG
Victor Medalist 350 O/A
Found this picture the other day and it's caught my attention. I don't know if I'll ever get around to making one, and I certainly don't have a need for one, but it's one of those things that I'd like too have.
Basically, it supports the full length of the bar so you can upset the end, making rivets and bolts without having to worry about the shank slipping in the jaws of a regular vise. It'd be great for people who make a lot of furniture and want to add custom bolts to it. I had thought about making custom bolts for folks, but it's just too much work for too little return, or maybe I just haven't found the right customer. It's sad to see so many people relying on all-thread because they won't take the time to do it right.
Back to the Twisting Wrench idea, there's a fellow on Ebay who puts up a nice version for sale every now and then. I've mentioned them before but managed to snag a couple of pictures this time around....
I've seen a lot of folks use F-wrenches for Twisting Wrenches, but this is the first time I've ever seen anyone make what I think is both a functional and attractive variant. I'll have to keep my eyes open for a wrecked wrench so I can cut the handle off....
Question? What would be the negatives of using a 16" long X 12"diameter piece of galvanized corrugated pipe for a forges outside shell wall, and a 16" long piece of 8" sonic tube for the inside wall of a poured insulation type of forge, the type of insulation the Polish forge maker uses?
The SIL told me tonight his brother thinks they have a 8" piece of auger tube I can have to build a forge, but an 8" OD outside shell after insulation only leaves a 4" inside heating chamber, which doesn't seem large enough to this nimrod wanabee blacksmith.
I received my new bumping hammer, it's pretty cool, it's heavier than it looks, I believe it weighs 2.8 lbs.
Wouldn't be any problem going with a forge like that. I'd put Kaowool right up against the galvanized surface so it doesn't get too hot and start giving off fumes, but other than that.... a shell is a shell is a shell.
The one worry I have is the length/width ratio. At 16" long... what are you building so much of that you need that long a chamber? At 8" finished inside width, I'd look for a finished inside length somewhere between 8" and 10". Any more than that is just burning fuel for no good reason. 99% of your work is going to be short stuff and you want the heat only where you're going to be hammering.
Doing bowls and such might require a wider forge than making knives, but not by much.
My current forge has a 16" chamber and I've never used it.
Wouldn't be any problem going with a forge like that. I'd put Kaowool right up against the galvanized surface so it doesn't get too hot and start giving off fumes, but other than that.... a shell is a shell is a shell.
The one worry I have is the length/width ratio. At 16" long... what are you building so much of that you need that long a chamber? At 8" finished inside width, I'd look for a finished inside length somewhere between 8" and 10". Any more than that is just burning fuel for no good reason. 99% of your work is going to be short stuff and you want the heat only where you're going to be hammering.
Doing bowls and such might require a wider forge than making knives, but not by much.
My current forge has a 16" chamber and I've never used it.
I learn something new every time I ask a question here. I also am wanting a forge that can generate welding temps, is that unnecessary as well? Thanks Vaughn
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Originally Posted by VaughnT
Definitely learned a lesson in what NOT to do 
lets just say the 10 inch by 5 inch piece of skin the peeled off my forearm afterwards was an eyeopener
![](https://<a href="[url]https://imgbox.com/9jhAl5bR"[/url] target="_blank"><img src="[url]https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/dd/28/9jhAl5bR_t.jpg"[/url] alt="image host"/></a>)
