Q. re making metal drawers

[Marty Feldman]

No, not those kind of drawers, drawers like under a bench.

I have made a number of small metal benches and machine stands, all of conventional design, with a shelf or two but without drawers. It would be good to make up a couple of stands (for a grinder, small power saw, etc.) that incorporated a drawer under the stand top, for covered stowage of things like blades, tooling, and grinding wheels. Maybe 2x3 feet for drawer width x front-to-back depth, and say 6-8 inches in height, steel sheet. I would appreciate having a few design suggestions, along with suggestions for sheet gauge and for providing some stiffening of the drawer so that heavy contents don't cause sag. I don't want to buy a ready-made metal drawer, but I don't mind buying bits like roller bars. The easy way would be to weld up a 5-sided bin that just slides -- scrape, scrape -- on a couple of pieces of angle, but I figure we can do better than that. Would prefer to do the whole thing as a stick job.

-Marty-

[whtbaron]

Hmmm.... I like your idea, but I might take the lazy man's approach. I'm thinking about incorporating a couple short garage sale filing cabinets into the base for the machines. They would have to have HD slides to take the weight though.

[Mikel_24]

I am in the same boat (more or less) because I want to make a drawer for my welding cart (working on it righ now) and after some researching I decided I would go and buy some drawer slides. Even the heavier duty ones I found were surprisingly cheap! I suggest you do the same.

[DSW]

A box and pan brake or finger brake is really what you need. That will allow you to bend sides. If you have a standard brake, you can bend angles on the sides and do lap joints to assemble the drawers vs bending things all at once.

One way to do these is to get some really light duty angle and reinforce the corners. This allows you to do lap joints vs outside corners that are especially tough on light sheet. You really don't even need to weld the sheets 100% to the angle. Spot welds will usually hole a lot of it together if you weld the reinforcing angles together solid.

[wb4rt]

BTW, a 2'x3'x 6"-8" drawer is pretty big. It will be hard to do with thin sheet and heavy to do with heavier sheet. You will have problems with warping and twisting, plus it will be easy to overload it. You will have to put gussets or other reinforcements, plus a center support or 2.

I find smaller drawers hold a lot of tools and are easier to find stuff. Look at bought toolbox drawers - usually 26"x 12" x 2-3".

I have one that is about 12" x 16" x 2" under my welding table and it is very handy for markers, tape measures, welding hats, gloves, welpers, etc.

[M J D]

I would use 16 gauge on that size. Cross bend bottom( an x shape like on ductwork). Then on your sides bend a 1/2- 3/4" lip. If you notch corners the sides can be bent with 1 seam. Full weld side seam and stitch weld sides to bottom. If using stick, use 5/64 " 6013. ( I said the 6013 word so flame away.) The crossbend will add lots to prevent sagging but you will need to space it up and use slides or angle.

[Jimmy_pop]

here is a keyboard tray I made this week for a previously made desk frame of mine. 11ga clear coated. it was a rush job and virtually free so I didnt do major effort. I was pleased it was very rigid in the fully extended position. I normally would have used a pan instead of a flat piece of steel but it was not in the budget of time or money. This is all the underside which you will never see. all you see is about 15" of steel and your finger tips grab the piece of .5x.5" cold rolled bar to pull the shelf out/in. It glides really nice on sealed Japanese bearings.

[Tolly]

I recently went this route and ended up buying some pedestals/ filing cabinet. using 14ga material was one of my main problems because not everybody can bend it or if they could they charge an arm and a leg. My were going to be 7.5"Hx25"Wx18"L surprisingly they were kinda heavy. For drawer slides, were going to be purchased from Home Depot with the basic ball bearing. For the price and quantity wanted that was the best route to go and not keeping an eye out for the post man.

I did end up having part of them bent, only one side could be at a full 90 degree and the other two sides were at a 45 degree. The front was going to be welded on with and X bend from corner to corner for strength and looks. Tried heating and bending the 45's to a full 90 degree and did not like the way they turned out.
So I went with the KISS method

[BD1]

Mick, those are awesome !! I really like the finish .

'' I couldn't do without them now.'' Oh, I know , those small compartments are great for holding all those drugs you are on.

Hope you are progressing rapidly with the healing process. As for the therapy, those 12 ounce curls will help.

[richey]

Wow Mick very nice. Hope the Knees are doing better. Richey

[blenderthief]

mind sharing where you got those japanese metal bearings?

thanks!
karen

here is a keyboard tray I made this week for a previously made desk frame of mine. 11ga clear coated. it was a rush job and virtually free so I didnt do major effort. I was pleased it was very rigid in the fully extended position. I normally would have used a pan instead of a flat piece of steel but it was not in the budget of time or money. This is all the underside which you will never see. all you see is about 15" of steel and your finger tips grab the piece of .5x.5" cold rolled bar to pull the shelf out/in. It glides really nice on sealed Japanese bearings.