Shop Air Service Upgrades And Additions

[7A749]

At that point you better hold your breath...

I was sorta thinking the same thing...

I am pretty sure the guy meant the "good" kind

[7A749]

One small issue I do happen to have is that I really don't have an adequate enough electrical service to power my air compressor. All I have is 50 amps going out to my little shop. It does pretty well for most stuff, but when it's cold out the compressor really lags on first startup. Not an issue once it's got running and warm. Then, there's no problems at all. But, that first initial startup when it's cold out really draws the amps.. Even tho I heat when I'm not out there, it's only just under 50 degrees, so startups in those temps usually result in blowing the breaker...

Down in the basement.... Of course

So, to counter the problem, I simply pull the relief valve on the head, then turn it on. Without any head pressure, it fires right up. But.... The chintzy little ring on the end of the valve pretty much bent up and came off immediately. I had to keep bending it back into a ring so it would stay on the valve end. Plus, with the valve pointing towards the back of the compressor, I would have to reach over with my left hand to hold it open while I flipped the switch with my right. Kind of a PITA to be honest.

After talking with MJD about putting some truck air brake tank pull drain valves on my drop legs, I figured I would do something similar with the relief valve on the head of my compressor., I repositioned it, then went to the hardware and got some cable and crimp on furelles.

Now, I can just give the cable loop end a firm tug while turning the compressor on.

Problem solved!

[M J D]

I wasn't sure of the type of purge valve that you had on the compressor. After seeing your picture, I have seen those before. That so called ring , reminds me of the chintzy wire ones like you see on a paper key tag, like an auto repair shop would use.

[7A749]

I wasn't sure of the type of purge valve that you had on the compressor. After seeing your picture, I have seen those before. That so called ring , reminds me of the chintzy wire ones like you see on a paper key tag, like an auto repair shop would use.

That's exactly what I thought too. I was gonna put one of the ones I'm getting from you on it, but after thinking on it, I realized I could just get some cable and reposition it and prolly make it work just fine. The pull valves on the drip legs are gonna be sweet tho. I may even fab up some little pulleys to be able to pull it remotely..

[7A749]

With all that pipe you ran maybe you should install ID labels, '' ARROWS '' so the air knows which way to go !!!

You know, I had missed this comment first time around.

One more thing for the to do list. Make it look real industrial, just like the lines in the shop were

Great idea Bob!

[BD1]

I like that paint. DOLLAR STORE ?? Yea, that's the one where everything is a DOLLAR or more. I did go to a REAL dollar store , EVERYTHING is only $1.00. It sound better when I thought the paint was a $1.00 .

[7A749]

Yeah, it's sorta a dollar store

"Dollar" General. I tell you what, their striped shortbread cookies and Girl Scout knockoffs are some of the best around and cheap too.

Oh, you're such a bad influence Bob

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151733633014

[BD1]

MICK , '' I kept losing air over night "

Hey mate, that sounds like a personal problem ! You better tell Jane to ease up on the old guy.

[milomilo]

I too have 1" threaded pipe on my air compressor run. Used all the different types of tape. Some worked better than others. Also used Rector seal with the same results. Sometimes I would have a small leak or two. Then I started using gorilla glue. Wet rag on the threads and a small 3/16" bead around the threads and screw it on. Since the gorilla glue I've never had a leak. Takes about 20 ft. lbs. extra force to unscrew thew joints. No more tape or goop for me.

[wornoutoldwelder]

I really like how the original poster did his air system...Really, it looks top notch and no expense or effort spared.....

I'm not existing in anywhere near nice his shop, so space and expense were really important, but needed real no chit system anyway....I made lots of compromises due to size and budget, but got what would do me right in the end and so far it has...let me see if I can find a pic from several years ago showing what I done.



This is best pic I can find....That is a 60 gallon HF 5 HP compressor all made in USA except the air pump that is made in Italy..Because a bud cop's wife at the time worked at Harbor Freight, we drug it to my shop for about 600 bucks.

Once home I located it tight in a corner and built out from there....ALL in that little corner is now a killer air system that is totally air tight and so very flexable...I can shut down the compressor and leave it for two weeks and not lose a single lb of pressure once correct for ambient air temps...The comp really is that tight and now with several hundred hours on it it remains so.

But there are Many little detains you can't see in the pic.

Starting at the compressor outlet, the very first thing I installed was a large USA made ball valve...That valve goes shut whenever I lock up shop for night and comp holds every spec of air for weeks....and I truly mean every spec of pressure.

The very next thing I did before even performing run in was raise the whole machine 4" and install rather expensive 120V Ingersol blowdown solenoid valve that you can set for how often and how long you want it to drain tank....I wired it to regular 120V wall switch above comp and flip it on when I enter shop each day....It operates independant of comp and as soon as it is energized it blows for 10 seconds then every 45 minutes after until de-energized...so ok. so far two thangs a guy has to do to get auto paint quality air is to open tank ball valve and flip blowdown switch...but it needed a refrigerated air dryer to really do all that, huh?

I searched hard and long and even tried a USA dryer I salvaged from work.....Man, there was no way I was going to pay 1 or 2 thousand for an air dryer especially after I saw how often the USA made ones we bought at work failed....Hell, they were all made in China anyway....I got lucky and located my dream air dryer at Harbor Freight...It is NOT carried in any store but they will ship it to you....I friggin LOVE that dryer....some folks have been running them well over 10 years without ever turning them off....And hey, I am a certified A/C tech, so I know what to look for under the sheet metal and I was and still am impressed at what 400 bucks bought me in a hi cap refrigerated air dryer....It runs my sandblast cab, and my two Hypertherm plasmas and has NOT failed to pull temps down for over two years now almost as soon as I energize it....GOOD stuff, just hard to find on their website and never carried in any of their stores.

But to spare the dryer extra work, after the comp discharge ball valve I fabbed up a hard pipe manifold that allows me to bypass the dryer if I ever decide to.

After the dryer manifold I used Goodyear inexpensive factory made large but short rubber hoses to connect to the rest of my air system....My whole air system discharges into a large spring loaded Harbor freight hose reel, where the last items before the reel is a USA pressure reg I keep set at 100 PSI and a large McGuard filter canister...Oh, a a very large hi quality pressure gage I can read clean across the shop.

After over two years of daily use, the McGuard filter remains totally clean with not the first spec of water ever having been in it...But by golly it is there if ever needed.....

That whole system cost me not over 1K, and it operates flawlessly...But I will advise all here to never allow auto pressure switch on your compressor to fire up comp.....Always leave that switch ON, and instead use breaker to turn comp on and off....Only allow comp switch to keep comp pressed up and it will last many years.....Plus first buy bigger comp that you need then reduce it's operating pressure from perhaps 175 psi to just above 100 psi....If you do that your comp will last a very long time.

[7A749]

I really like how the original poster did his air system...Really, it looks top notch and no expense or effort spared.....

I'm not existing in anywhere near nice his shop, so space and expense were really important, but needed real no chit system anyway

You have GOT to have me confused with somebody else. I don't have a pot to piss in or a window to throw it out of. I just have been putting this together from four walls and a single 60 watt light bulb to what I have now over the last 16 years. It's a long ways from a lot of places I've been in. It gets the job done and I don't owe anyone a nickel for any of it.

That's pretty funny tho.

If I do buy an air dryer (it will be the next step if the filter thingy don't solve my moisture problems), it'll be that HF one

[M J D]

I really like how the original poster did his air system...Really, it looks top notch and no expense or effort spared.....

I'm not existing in anywhere near nice his shop, so space and expense were really important, but needed real no chit system anyway....I made lots of compromises due to size and budget, but got what would do me right in the end and so far it has...let me see if I can find a pic from several years ago showing what I done.



This is best pic I can find....That is a 60 gallon HF 5 HP compressor all made in USA except the air pump that is made in Italy..Because a bud cop's wife at the time worked at Harbor Freight, we drug it to my shop for about 600 bucks.

Once home I located it tight in a corner and built out from there....ALL in that little corner is now a killer air system that is totally air tight and so very flexable...I can shut down the compressor and leave it for two weeks and not lose a single lb of pressure once correct for ambient air temps...The comp really is that tight and now with several hundred hours on it it remains so.

But there are Many little detains you can't see in the pic.

Starting at the compressor outlet, the very first thing I installed was a large USA made ball valve...That valve goes shut whenever I lock up shop for night and comp holds every spec of air for weeks....and I truly mean every spec of pressure.

The very next thing I did before even performing run in was raise the whole machine 4" and install rather expensive 120V Ingersol blowdown solenoid valve that you can set for how often and how long you want it to drain tank....I wired it to regular 120V wall switch above comp and flip it on when I enter shop each day....It operates independant of comp and as soon as it is energized it blows for 10 seconds then every 45 minutes after until de-energized...so ok. so far two thangs a guy has to do to get auto paint quality air is to open tank ball valve and flip blowdown switch...but it needed a refrigerated air dryer to really do all that, huh?

I searched hard and long and even tried a USA dryer I salvaged from work.....Man, there was no way I was going to pay 1 or 2 thousand for an air dryer especially after I saw how often the USA made ones we bought at work failed....Hell, they were all made in China anyway....I got lucky and located my dream air dryer at Harbor Freight...It is NOT carried in any store but they will ship it to you....I friggin LOVE that dryer....some folks have been running them well over 10 years without ever turning them off....And hey, I am a certified A/C tech, so I know what to look for under the sheet metal and I was and still am impressed at what 400 bucks bought me in a hi cap refrigerated air dryer....It runs my sandblast cab, and my two Hypertherm plasmas and has NOT failed to pull temps down for over two years now almost as soon as I energize it....GOOD stuff, just hard to find on their website and never carried in any of their stores.

But to spare the dryer extra work, after the comp discharge ball valve I fabbed up a hard pipe manifold that allows me to bypass the dryer if I ever decide to.

After the dryer manifold I used Goodyear inexpensive factory made large but short rubber hoses to connect to the rest of my air system....My whole air system discharges into a large spring loaded Harbor freight hose reel, where the last items before the reel is a USA pressure reg I keep set at 100 PSI and a large McGuard filter canister...Oh, a a very large hi quality pressure gage I can read clean across the shop.

After over two years of daily use, the McGuard filter remains totally clean with not the first spec of water ever having been in it...But by golly it is there if ever needed.....

That whole system cost me not over 1K, and it operates flawlessly...But I will advise all here to never allow auto pressure switch on your compressor to fire up comp.....Always leave that switch ON, and instead use breaker to turn comp on and off....Only allow comp switch to keep comp pressed up and it will last many years.....Plus first buy bigger comp that you need then reduce it's operating pressure from perhaps 175 psi to just above 100 psi....If you do that your comp will last a very long time.

Is there a psi and a CFM rating on the drier you have? Wondering if you had any issues with flow involving the drier

[wornoutoldwelder]

You have GOT to have me confused with somebody else. I don't have a pot to piss in or a window to throw it out of. I just have been putting this together from four walls and a single 60 watt light bulb to what I have now over the last 16 years. It's a long ways from a lot of places I've been in.

That's pretty funny tho.

Listen to you, you poor-mouthin bytch...Just accept my sincere compliments...and yeah, you got that single 60 watt bulb hangin fersure. LOL

[7A749]

It looks like it wouldn't have any props handling what I have. I was a little uncertain by the ratings, at least at similar ones I looked at on eBay. It was gonna be my first choice until I saw what I did. I got worried it would be a repeat of all the other wonderful issues I've had with my air service over the last several years.

Look forward to hearing the specs from an actual user.

[7A749]

Listen to you, you poor-mouthin bytch...Just accept my sincere compliments...and yeah, you got that single 60 watt bulb hangin fersure. LOL

I only took pix of the clean areas.

You got a LOT of nice stuff I would love to have in my shop

The guns too

[7A749]

I was actually really interested in (and still am) one of those HF air dryers.

Maybe the info I read was incorrect, it was rated at like only 10 CFM, 150 PSI.

Wornout, please post anything you got on it. Yours was actually the very first one I thought of when I started reworking everything.

[wornoutoldwelder]

Is there a psi and a CFM rating on the drier you have? Wondering if you had any issues with flow involving the drier

I'll dig a link up for it and post it here...All I remember is it was over the capacity I needed for the blast cab and less than comp when comp discharge was regulated down to about 110 PSI...It was also well above what my plasma cutters required.

Here ya go is link...almost 22 CFM @ 100 PSI, and friend it works really well at whatever their sandblast cab pulls. Everything else in my shop draws much less.

http://www.harborfreight.com/compres...yer-40211.html

It is a major item to first install an auto tank solenoid drain tho...that auto valve installed directly in place of bottom tank petcock spares the whole system downstream of the comp tons of moister...so much that my dryer has never spit water on my shop floor.

let me see if I can find link to auto drain valve....Got it free, but today would buy it.

See if this drain valve link posts....If you decide to select same valve, remember to remove the angled inlet filter crap and petcock valve from it..you do NOT need nor want those installed.

http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.c...FQ-raQodJFUPFw

I have recently seen them listed for as little as 64 bucks but can't recall where....
what you do is simply remove the tank bottom petcock and install black iron elbow and 1/4" copper tubing all the way up to auto blow valve that you can mount up high anywhere you desire.....when that sucked pops open it will instantly blow all moisture out for very long way up hill.


You can plug it into 120V AC wall outlet as supplied by factory or chop the plug and wire it to one leg of either single or 3 phase 120V AC.....I plugged mine into wall at switched outlet up high next to compressor...All i did is get in the habit of flipping the switch whenever I use comp.

[7A749]

^^^ I'm running right around 170ish PSI @ 23 CFM straight from the head. I would likely have to run that dryer downline from one of the regulators or I imagine I will have leak problems. At least everything rated at 150 PSI has so far, although not at once.

The university salvage store had two commercial IR dryers on the floor for about $80/ea last year but everything there is as is no returns so I just couldn't bring myself to throw the cash out for one and end up dragging home a boat anchor. It seems I have an uncanny knack for either purchasing broken air service equipment, or something that quickly develops leaks and issues. Part of the reason I went so anal with everything this time.

That auto drain looks like a winner. I wouldn't hesitate to spend the dough on one. I manually drain mine several times a day, but I'll be on the lookout for one of those now that you mentioned it. It looks very robust. Right up my kinda alley

Oh, BTW I have since upgraded to 150 watt bulbs

[wornoutoldwelder]

I'll be totally honest with you about shop air dryers....You and me both simply don't need them if we have electronic auto drain installed on bottom of tank... and for long piping systems, also a few drip legs with manual ball valve to open before use.

I bought the air dryer before I learned all that.....Because of the autodrain valve, I have never seen the dryer drip a single drop of water....and not the very first moisture in my McGuard filter either.....

BUT, if you decide to shoot quality auto paint. It would be a good idea to have one.

When it comes to plasma cutters, I didn't know until after I bought my first hypertherm that they all had built in water filters...So the only real reason I thought I needed the dryer was voided already by the auto drain and Plasma machines...I still flip it on out of habit, but have often forgot to turn it on when sand blasting or using plasma and never noticed moisture.

If I had wired the autodrain to the comp inline from starter to motor, it would only operate when comp started and shut off....

[7A749]

Yeah, you got a point. I know you live in a super humid climate too, prolly more so than up here in the summer time. When it's really bad, water practically shoots out of the line at an almost constant rate when it's running a lot. I notice it the most with my super NON OSHA compliant blow gun I use to clean out welders before I wash them. That thing is practically like a fire hose once it really gets going.

I put an offer in on a new IR auto drain like yours. I found a couple pretty reasonable on eBay last night after you posted up the pix of your system. I'll prolly wire it in like you were saying so it comes on once the compressor is running.

You got a real nice setup. I'm glad you mentioned that auto drain. It's the first one I've seen that looked robust enough to trust that it wouldn't start leaking a week after I installed it

I'll post up how the auto drain goes, I'll end up with one here real soon one way or another.

[WelderWannabe]

One small issue I do happen to have is that I really don't have an adequate enough electrical service to power my air compressor. All I have is 50 amps going out to my little shop. It does pretty well for most stuff, but when it's cold out the compressor really lags on first startup. Not an issue once it's got running and warm.

What about a stick-on crank case heater to keep your oil warm? This type of thing...they make them in various sizes.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Compress...-/180756469329

[7A749]

The problem mainly is I don't have enough power to properly start it. That looks like a good idea tho.

The only thing I don't like about stuff like that is that it's one more thing I need to leave on and plugged in. I'm sorta paranoid about stuff like that, even tho I know the likelihood of a fire is slim. I'm going to install an automatic drainer unit on it, but I'm going to run in in series with the compressor's power supply so it only comes on when the compressor is under power. This way, I don't leave it plugged in somewhere and forget about it.

I appreciate the suggestion. I may have to look into it in the future.

[7A749]

There's some real bad influences here who help me spend what little money I have....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ingersoll-Ra.../111905944059?

I got it for less. Thanks a lot, wornout

I'll take full responsibility for the gyro tho....

[tinker001]

If you cool the air before it gets into the tank. Then you would have less problems with moisture to begin with. Which could be solved simply making the some coils in the air flow of the compressor's flywheel then to a small tank up to the inlet of the storage tank. I would then install a drain on the small tank to drain of the moisture that was captured there. That there would save you a lot of money and could be done fairly cheaply. treating the air before the tank would also save the tanks from rusting out.

[BD1]

All this talk of auto drain has got me wound up to get one.
If you saw the amount of water I drain from my tank every day, you'd know why.

Ah NO , not another PERSONAL PROBLEM !!! You gotta quit buying that cheap beer !!!!