i think i know what your talking about, its like a flare v on two studs back to back. i tried it w/ an inverter w/ 3/32 7018, and was unable to do it. i never used 7014 before, but some others may have. i wonder if 7014 would be the thing?
Hi everyone, I'm needing info on vertical up smaw for 2 16 ga metal studs.... I keep burning holes in them, I am using 3/32" 6011. I'm trying to pass a welding test for a new job ! I would appreciate your expert advice, thanks very much!
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i think i know what your talking about, its like a flare v on two studs back to back. i tried it w/ an inverter w/ 3/32 7018, and was unable to do it. i never used 7014 before, but some others may have. i wonder if 7014 would be the thing?
If the test is 6011 I doubt the want to see you try with something else, they'll think you can't read...
Do they really want you going uphill? I'd think you are GOING to burn through on 16 ga uphill with 3/32 every time. I'd use a smaller rod downhill.
Last edited by xryan; 03-30-2016 at 12:47 AM.
Ryan
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I think downhill would work much better and still have the required strength. Uphill would almost have to put a series of tacks on top of each other.
i was on a job and it consisted of welding those studs. we were erecting 6 family houses. unless the welding specs call for 6011 try 6013 vert down on ac.
i.u.o.e. # 15
queens, ny and sunny fla
Sounds to me like the weld specs were improperly developed, but hey, until they realize that ain't anyone going to pass the test.
I often had to remind my navy ensign bosses, "Be careful or someday I will do exactly what you tell me to do."
did they specify going up if not run that sh*% down
Do you grind the galvy off?
I would not like vertical up for that thin of material.
If it had to be a fairly long weld, I would weld back-stepped vertical down (about an 1" long each) so I had someplace to stop each bead as a worked my way up.
If it has to be vertical up (which I've never done that thin) I would not point the rod tip up - too much preheating and would blow a hole.
Good luck I would not have any fun on that one.
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
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Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
basic sheet metal welding make short weld lengths and stop and let metal cool.
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sometimes trying to do more than an inch at a time the heat buildup is too much
If perhaps the agency chose that exact weld to determine-narrow down the field of applicants to the best of the best, then they know it is nearly impossible to perform. I seriously doubt they use it in day to day construction.
i think the poet knows half way what hes talking about. the reason why, is i think i've seen it. 7-8 yrs ago, i got called to a remodel job at a schools locker room. they were 16ga galv studs. i looked at the existing studs, and the welds were vertical up, and i was convinced they were stick welds. i was unable to do it w/ a maxstar150 3/32 7018. the job needed to be done, it was the weeknd, and sheetrockers were coming monday. they wanted it done no matter what. i was told, do it however you can, just make it look like the existing welds. i used .030 nr211. i had to do two passes, one on top of the other to make it look as full as the existing welds. to the best of my memeory, the welds roughly 1.5" long on 18" center, on both sides of stud, the full 8 + foot. So i think the poet is right about it being smaw. like i said, i never used 7014, but i think its got a higher deposostion, and it would be my guess on how it was done.
one of the 50 six family houses i helped put up in the 80's. welded galvanized studs. some were welded flat when the panels were prefabbed on large layout tables after putting just enough screws in to hold it together and the rest welded in place vertical down. all welded with lightly fluxed 6013 using ac 220v tombstone welders. at the time the nyc building dept had a class 4 welding license for this kind of work but if you had a 1st class license you were good to go without retesting.
i.u.o.e. # 15
queens, ny and sunny fla
Talking to an iron worker yesterday, he said 211 on 16 ga galvy just like 123 weld said. I thought studs were mig'd. I will have to try 6011 tonight. I do a fair amount of metal framing. Ive only used FCAW 211 or 210. Practice only and got burn thru.
Looking thru some old plans for a fusion center (MRI) that a GC wanted me to bid, I found that the welds are very short. Im not used to reading weld symbols but it looks like some are only 1/8" welds so no burn thru. The plans didnt say what process that I can tell. Anyway, I couldnt do the job at aproximate $50-$100,000 per week pay roll but heres the plans if they load. Views A4,A5 and C1 have weld details. Maybee someone can decipher if they upload.
The plans say weld or screws. Welding is more fun but screws are fast and make me more money when piece working.
Another thing, Ive been seeing metal studs called 20 ga equivalent. Havnt used 16 ga for a while but Im sure theres 16ga equivalent. Its not 20 ga but they add a bend here and dimple there to give the same structure as standard 20ga. I wont use 25ga anymore because its like framing with razor blades. I always spend the extra to avoid 25ga.
OK, I cant upload 1MB pdf files. I can take a pic but can someone tell how to upload a pdf? I think I done it before
Thanks for the advice sir!
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don't run off royhill, tell us everything there asking you to do. ask the company for there procedure, i doubt they or the inspector turn there workers loose on a job to use any rod and guage of stud they desire that day. they should be telling you what rod and polarity, etc
Last edited by 123weld; 03-31-2016 at 10:09 PM.
In first pic A4, shows 20ga stud welded or screwed to 16 ga CRC. If Im reading weld symbol correctly it saiz; 1/16 wide fillet 1" long every 2 " one side.
Second pic B5, 20 ga stud welded only 1/16 wide , 1" every 12" weld only.
Third pic C1, mix of 16ga stud to 14 ga plate (needs further review on my part ) 3/8" wide , 1" long every 16" fillet on both sides.
My interpatation of these plans may need corrections tho.
I couldnt find the weld process but I think its MIG'd. MIG would be cleaner for hospital IMO. I know the superintendant for this job (7 years ago tho). I will ask him what weld process to be sure but that may take a while. In the meantime, keep practicing with 6011.
Hope this helps royhill62.
OOPS: pics came out in wrong order. First pic is B5, second is C1 and third is A4 .
Thanks insane- I got it done with 3/32 6011.... at 50 amps
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Youda MAN!
well it worked, barely, as easy to blow through. managed to do it on 18 ga studs also. it was 3/32 7014, i didnt have time to find/order 1/16" 7014, but if i wanted to stick it again, i would try 1/16, as the 3/32 was very tough. very easy to blow through. you had to be really in tune, needed perfect start/perfect travel/angle/amperage. if you stopped for a lunch break, it practically threw me outa whack. but yes 7014 does work, and qualifies for when 70XX is spec'd, where as royhills 6011 wouldnt
Don't use 1/16. Go with 5/64 7014 at around 50 amps DCEN. Be sure to clean off the galv. stuff first.
Blows me away they want it ran uphill.
What do they do about rust protection after the welding?
12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.
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I have done this 6011. 16 isn't bad, lighter gets a lot harder. I put a little tack on top where I want to stop and weld up to it.