CL find

[toolman]

I picked up a AEAD 200LE Serial # HK 349832 The pervious owner replaced the carb and tuned up the motor, it runs great. Rest of the machine looks good. But it has no output welding or the generator. He said it had sat without running for many years. He wanted to get it running before he sold it. Which he did but it would not weld so he threw in the towel. I bought it for what he had in parts. Any ideas????????????????
First I read a lot of post related to this machine or similar.
I'm going to down load the manual.
Is this one of the machines that may need to reflash the field to get output????

Thanks
Tim

[ccawgc]

Only if the flashing diode D4 has failed. Your welder has a built in flashing circuit.
Clean the slip rings, Check R2 and R4, they are large fixed adjustable resistors. Some times the adjustable band rusts and looses contact. Put the bands back where they were, They set OCV and aux voltages. Make sure the brushes are not stuck and are making good contact to the slip rings. You should be able to measure 12DC from the brush with wire 21 to brush with wire 33. Wire 33 is case ground. No 12 VDC then D4 or the wire to the battery has failed. D4 is in a sleeve tied up in the wiring harness. look near the ON switch, the 12VDC goes through one side then to the diode, then to Bridge diode SR2 and to the slip ring. If you need a diagram send me your e-mail by private message

[toolman]

Thanks
I may have some time tomorrow to check it out. Whats the best method to clean the slip rings?

[duaneb55]

It's safe to presume you don't have a commutator stone so the next best thing is fine (320grit) sand paper. If they're real dirty, you can start with a coarser paper (say 180) and finish with the 320. Do not use emery paper as emery particles can/will get lodged in the brushes and tear up the rings.

[toolman]

duaneb55
I went to work and ask about commutator stone and we had a small selection. I got a course and fine mounted on a wooded shaft. Can I do this with the engine running or should i just turn it by hand.

Thanks
Tim

[duaneb55]

Best with unit running to keep the rings as true as possible. Just use EXTREME CAUTION and take great care to keep fingers and such away from the rotating parts. Get in the most comfortable position as possible and use light pressure for cleaning.

[toolman]

Update just a little time this evening to try some of the suggested fixes.
Cleaned the slip rings (pic coming) the commutator stone worked great.
Checked the brushes look good springs are strong holding them to the slip rings.
Tryed the machine no 110 volt but got a very small spark when trying a welding rod. The auto idle does work the rpm's jumped up when it sparked stayed a while then went back down.
Got to the adjustable bands on R2 and R4 they are really rusty. I'm all most afraid to fool with them. Sprayed the screws with some penetrating oil and stopped for today.
Thanks for the advice more updates coming.

[Bistineau]

I learned how to weld on a machine such as yours. I found it had similar problems you describe after having been left to sit unused for awhile. Try turning the Coarse Adjust switch through all positions at least 4 or 5 times. Sometimes the contacts in there get a little corroded and this knocks some of that off where it will start working again. Might want to give it a try before messing with the rusty screws much. Can't hurt, if it's been sitting for years, maybe more than 4 or 5 twists will do the trick.

[toolman]

Bistineau i had tryed that no luck.
Had a little more time after work and finished all of CCAWGC instructions. Cleaned the R2 and R4 bands reinstalled them. Checked wire 21 and 33 at the brushes. Ignition on motor off and motor running both had 12 volts DC. Still no 110 out put did not try welding.
Where do i go next?????????

[toolman]

T1 looks to be in bad condition . Does T1 feed the aux power PC board could this be the problem?????????

Thanks

[ccawgc]

T1 feeds 21vac to the pcb, 42 volts outside wires and 21 vac to the center wire.
Only in power. In weld mode a switch opens and removes the 21 volts.
In weld mode the voltage regulator is not working.
Measure the inside slip ring to each of the out side ones. Should be around 30 ohms. May need to lift the brush off.
Measure from pin F to the brush with wire 23.
Measure from pin D to the brush with wire 33 Make sure both have low ohms.
This makes sure the circuit is good from the regulator pcb to the brushes.
Make a fused jumper, Put a 2 amp fuse in it. then jumper F to D. This bypasses the regulator. Put welder in weld mode and see if the welder part comes to life. Don't try to run in power mode with the jumper. There is a chance it could damage the pcb.It is ok in weld because the power was been removed from it. If it comes to life check the AC voltage a E & G. If this brings It to life and you can now weld. You have an open in the regulator pcb. You could test the T1 transformer by marking then unplugging all its wires.
Apply 115 volts to the primary side and measure the secondary for 42 and 21VAC.
Use a 115 v power cord with clips and a 1 amps fuse for protection.
Be careful and let us know what you find.

[toolman]

Work work work I know i'm lucky to have a job while many others don't. I'll try to make some time this week to follow your instructions.

Thanks
Tim

[toolman]

Made some time tonight to apply your instructions.
Did not check T1 output the machine is apart fuel tank and all of the covers are off.
Measured the slip rings 39 ohms each
measured pin F to brush with wire 23 no reading on the 200 scale and 550 2K scale
measured pin D to brush with wire 33 6 ohms on 200 scale.
So i guess this means the circuit from the regulator pcb to the brushes is bad???
Should I go head and jumper F & D to by pass the regulator and try the welder operation out???

Thanks

[toolman]

Had some time tonight. I made the jumper and applied it to the wires going to F&D. was this correct or should I have put it on the two contacts on the board it's self. Tryed welding nothing but a small spark has I had before.
I pulled T1 out and tested it has described got the 21vac and 42vac has you said. It was very rusty so i thought it may have failed.

Is this a lost cause or just keep checking???????????

pic's

Thanks
Tim

[toolman]

more pic's

[ccawgc]

Over all the welder looks in good shape. So we will keep digging.
550 ohms from F to brush is a little high. R1 is 30 ohms and R2 is 12 or 36 ohms. So the max reading would be around 66 ohms. Turning the output adjustment on the front panel should change this reading. R1 is the rheostat on the panel. R2 is an adjustable resistor.
Lets go back to square one. Find the SR2 bridge diode. Check it for shorts or opens.
Find the AC terminals and start up the welder. Read the AC voltage, Should be 80VAC at low idle and 145VAC at high. Always use meter leads with clips and dress the leads away from things that move. Shut down and move to the DC, start up and measure. Dc volts will be around the AC volts, depending other factors. Measure again at Pin D to center brush see if you get the same DC voltage as was measured at the bridge. If Pin D has good voltage our excitation circuit is good. Get Circuit from pin F to brush to read right. If we are all good to this point and pcb has all the correct voltages applied, then the pcb could be bad.
That said the Voltage regulator pcb is only used for 60 cycle power and is turned off in weld mode. So to get weld output only you can jumper D to F. for testing. No weld output see square one above.
Went back a reread your posts. forget the pcb until you get weld output. removing wires from D and F and jumpering them together is the safer way to go. This puts the weld out put in complete control by the rheostat.

[toolman]

I put wire F & D togather with a fused jumper. No arc for welding but a very weak spark.

[toolman]

To make sure I'm in the right place SR2 is located on a AL. plate see pic #4 I posted.

Checked out SR2 it's ok. But D1 is bad shorted out D2 & D3 are good . D1 goes to wire 61 could this be the problem?????????????

Should I replace all 3 or just the bad one???????

[ccawgc]

For right now disconnect wire 61 and see if the welder comes to life. D1 through D3 are not needed to produce weld output. But if one is shorted, The current draw may keep the excitation from working by collapsing the magnetic fields.
DIODE, rectifier50 amp 400 volts SP miller part number 037 572
We don't know if D2 and D3 have been damaged by D1 shorting out.
You can change D1 now and maybe 2&3 later. Bought from Miller they are around $40 each.

Use an ohmmeter Check wire 61 to 60,62 &63 also check 28 &29 on SR2 Make sure none of these wires is shorted the the welder frame and you ran read the coils.

[toolman]

thanks
I will give it a try today. As for your last sentence.

Use an ohmmeter Check wire 61 to 60,62 &63 also check 28 &29 on SR2 Make sure none of these wires is shorted the the welder frame and you ran read the coils.

If i do this check 61 to 28 & 29 or just 28 & 29 togather? I take this is called reading the coils or you think I have read the coils already?

Sorry just trying to be sure to follow your instructions correctly.

thanks
tim

[toolman]

Checked the wires as instructed. No wire # 60 it has a # 64 which is bolted thru the center of SR2 like a ground I asume. I left 61 unhooked and it welds
Is it safe to assume if I replace the diode and hook 61 up it will put out AC current also?

Picture is 1/8 7018 ran this morning with this machine. I know I need to practice

Thanks
Tim

[ccawgc]

As you may have discovered 60 through 63 are one set of coils, 28 and 29 is a different coil.
You will find 60 on the 110 vdc plug. Now plug F and D back in and switch to AC aux power
see if the AC plugs come to life. The DC plug is used for an AC/DC grinder or a work light but NOT a florescent one. If you want to use the DC plug you will need to change the bad diode.

[toolman]

I'm sure F & D were plugged in. But I did not try the ac power. I did try the welding leads in the ac outlets for welding no power at all.

thanks

[toolman]

Well checked it out again I do have ac welding power. The ac outlets are only putting out 30 volts, I moved the reostat while the meter was hooked up and the voltage goes up and down but a max of 30 volts is it.
The engine speed does not change when trying the ac power. It seems it stays at idle. When in the weld mode the idle jumps up to wide open but does not return to idle I let it sit there a good while and it does not return. Move the auto idle switch and it will idle down. if you turn it off the engine goes up to welding speed.

[toolman]

Well I have no idea why but thing just continue to go good and work. I now have 115 volts to the ac power. I have been follow the trouble shooting and checking things along the way. 115vac at T1 and 71vdc where the welding cables hook up with the reostat at 100%.

The only problem left the auto idle will work when you strike an arc the engine revs. But will not return to idle when done. The trouble shooting guide say to pull the wire off of terminal C when I do this it goes back to idle but if I plug it back in it goes back to welding speed. If i switch the auto idle switch off and back on it stays at idle until you strike an arc again?
Is the board bad?????? or is it repairable.

Thanks