Had to re-skin the board of a 8ft Fisher. one piece of 10 gauge brake bent.
This is a plow problem prevention post..
Truck....
Now with most Fisher set ups you have a safety chain or some call it the over the road chain.
Nice to have but not the ideal set up from the factory.
The chain slack constantly gets caught between the angle piston and the A frame.
Constant crushing can cause angle piston failure.
To combat that all you need is a heavy duty spring and 2 attaching gizmos that I can't recall what they are...
Chain stays out of the way but will have the "strech" needed for those downhill adventures while the plow is in "Float" mode.
Works great!..
...zap!
I am not completely insane..
Some parts are missing
Professional Driver on a closed course....
Do not attempt.
Just because I'm a dumbass don't mean that you can be too.
So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Had to re-skin the board of a 8ft Fisher. one piece of 10 gauge brake bent.
These are from last year, but i've done the same thing half a dozen times this year too. Just extending the wing to match new cutting edge.
Same thing, also from last year, but with a new 1/2 plate behind the cutting edge, which is how I usually do it.
Snowplows
Always something broken, or about to.
Front end feels light... OK, found the problem.
Rig it up however, haul it back to the shop.
Hobbyist - At what point is a "hobby" out-of-control?
Nosepiece broken & rewelded several times, A-frame ends fatigued. Time for a more serious repair. Chopped, spliced, ground.
New pivot plates, longer length to reach fresh metal.
Cleaned well, then multipassed with 7018.
Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow....
Hobbyist - At what point is a "hobby" out-of-control?
Anyone familiar with the Boss VXT?
I am replacing my A - Frame, not repairable and $300 and change for a new one is money well spent.
However, the bushing the pin slides through to hold the A-Frame to the center section appears to have a partially cracked weld. I was thinking of grinding out the old weld where its broke and re-welding while the pin is inserted to keep it aligned. Make sense? Or do I repair the weld without the pin in and then ream?
Miller Dynasty 280 DX, Lincoln 210 MP
Well, welded it up with the pin in it. I dare say it slides in and out easier.
Miller Dynasty 280 DX, Lincoln 210 MP
I love it when a plan comes together...
250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
230 amp Sears AC Stick
Lincoln 180C MIG
Vevor MIG 200A
Victor Medalist 350 O/A
Vevor Cut 50 Plasma
Les
Hi
My friend made a plow for my skid steer out of an old tractor 3pt hitch grader.
The plow was below the attachment plate which was causing damage to the skidsteer arms.
I've since got my own welder (last year)and started to modify/improve the design the plow.
I've been looking at plow design and notice the all have springs/give.
Is there any point to working on this plow, or should I start over?
The skidsteer is a mini.
Any advice is welcome, thank you
Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
Gonna be hard on gear with no trip springs for sure.
Any loader based plow has geometry not conducive to plowing in float. The angle of push frame to ground makes the machine want to act like a pole vaulter. When the blade catches, the tractor tries to climb over it.
Only successful plow used on a loader frame must lock the loader in a position close to the ground. Plow then pivots from there. All plows need a trip mechanism. Snow pushers use only a flexible cutting edge. It folds to pass over an obstacle.
Another problem of loader mounted snow plows is the inability to tilt to conform to the discrepancy between tractor & grade. Snow pushers tilt up to 4" each side to conform. Pickup mounted plows are a bit sloppy for the same purpose.
An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.