A type of auto-darkening welding helmet is this, Auto Darkening Welding Helmet, Black, Digital Elite, 3, 5 to 8/8 to 13 Lens Shade that is made up of nylon construction and has some very excellent profound features containing
Lithium batteries
A very rigid and strong lens holder
Magnifying 5 outside and 2 inside cover lenses
A beautiful and eye-appealing helmet bag
Digital elite series
This auto-darkening welding helmet also contains 13.4 square inch display with some clear lens light technology, this technology just seems like a very wide and broad TV screen that entertains in a very happily profound way. Auto Darkening Welding Helmet, Black, Digital Elite, 3, 5 to 8/8 to 13 Lens Shade has 4 RC sensors and 4 modes as well containing
Weld
Cut
Grind
X-mode
These respective sensors and modes ensure a very desirable digital control that allows them to maintain and adjust shade, delay, and some sort of fragility and sensitivity. This miller’s helmet has a feature of “clear light” by which it means that this technology owns a very bright state and a visual view that is cleared while welding. This feature enhances visibility and it does also reduce eye strain.
I was welding last night for about 30 minutes and I kept getting flashed as the lens switched on and off. I had a 150 watt work light about 12" away from my work piece to see what I was doing. I don't know what was causing the problem but it could have been from the intermittent popping in the MIG wire as I hit rusty or oily metal and lost the arc for a millisecond. I was using a Miller auto darkening welding helmet that's about 3 years old. I have Miller, Hobart auto dark helmets and 6 other fixed shade helmets. I normally use a fixed shade but in certain conditions I have to use an auto darkening helmet. My eyes feel like I have sand in them and I'm don with this helmet. I don't want to spend more than $250. Is there anything reliable that you would recommend?
Throw the auto dark crap away and get a good FibreMetal or Jackson weld hood with a regular Number 9 lens. no muss no fuss and it lasts for damn near forever, I have one for 18 years now all I ever did was put new cups on it to fit my hardhat. I weld 12 hours a day 6 days a week with the same baby blues I was born with and have no trouble with my eyes getting sore unless I got another fella workin right next to me. That don't happen often. When I do get sore eyes its usually from dirt blowin around in the wind, Vicks Vaporrub works great for it, and for weld flash, smear some under your eyes and get some shuteye. Get up go to work the next day no problem.
Throw the auto dark crap away and get a good FibreMetal or Jackson weld hood with a regular Number 9 lens. no muss no fuss and it lasts for damn near forever, I have one for 18 years now all I ever did was put new cups on it to fit my hardhat. I weld 12 hours a day 6 days a week with the same baby blues I was born with and have no trouble with my eyes getting sore unless I got another fella workin right next to me. That don't happen often. When I do get sore eyes its usually from dirt blowin around in the wind, Vicks Vaporrub works great for it, and for weld flash, smear some under your eyes and get some shuteye. Get up go to work the next day no problem.
I have these 2 that I use... I truly prefer the ArcOne. It came with the gold lens (which I now prefer) and the headgear is more comfortable. Both are good hoods, I just prefer the ArcOne.
I hate changing batteries in auto dark helmets with replaceable batteries. I have a really nice working and very comfortable auto dark hood from Victor. Problem with it is, the dam batteries (which are supposed to recharge from the solar panel) won't last a year.
I've used many different AD hoods over the years. The best hood that I always fall back to is my fibre metal flip window that has a optrel AD lens in it. No batteries to change. It always works when I want it to.
Jason
Lincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tig
Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52
Miller Bobcat 250
Torchmate CNC table
Thermal Arc Hefty 2
Ironworkers Local 720
Whoa I never thought of that I have blue eyes too, and I get itchy eyes from welding all day.... And I have my helmets turned to 12
I too heard from an eye doctor that blue eyed folks have that problem, whether or not its true i coudnt say, i been weldin 45 years or so with a 9 lens and 16 years after Lazik I still have 2015 vision
You see things clearer from 5 years ago? That could be a good thing.
What do they say....hindsight is the best sight or somethin like that. I dont know quite how to write it but last winter I had some steel drilled out of my right eye...damn wind blew some grinding dust in under my hood and behind my safety glasses ( yes even coal crackin hillbillys wear them ), so a week after all this fun and adventure she gives me an examination because i had an infection from lettin it go too long, I do the reading on the wall chart and she says I can see almost as good as fighter jockeys and astronuts, I says whats that mean she I got 20-15 vision. I know one thing she sure was a honey of a looker and I KNOW what I was lookin at. If I was 35 years younger, had hair on my head and single OH MY
Last edited by Popeye an old miner; 01-19-2021 at 10:07 PM.
Throw the auto dark crap away and get a good FibreMetal or Jackson weld hood with a regular Number 9 lens. no muss no fuss and it lasts for damn near forever, I have one for 18 years now all I ever did was put new cups on it to fit my hardhat. I weld 12 hours a day 6 days a week with the same baby blues I was born with and have no trouble with my eyes getting sore unless I got another fella workin right next to me. That don't happen often. When I do get sore eyes its usually from dirt blowin around in the wind, Vicks Vaporrub works great for it, and for weld flash, smear some under your eyes and get some shuteye. Get up go to work the next day no problem.
mostly agree with you, I use a cheap plastic flip hood probably 70% of the time, but doing alot of heavy MIG, stick and especially flux core the speedglas adflo gets used.
All of my TIG welding is done with the cheap shield though.
mostly agree with you, I use a cheap plastic flip hood probably 70% of the time, but doing alot of heavy MIG, stick and especially flux core the speedglas adflo gets used.
All of my TIG welding is done with the cheap shield though.
I am with you. All of my mig work is done with a vulcanized fiber Jackson/Hunstman411p. All of my tig is done with a Jackson/Huntsman 711p. The 711p is now discontinued but I have a good stash of 411p that I may trim down to 711ps.
Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR"
MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
I am with you. All of my mig work is done with a vulcanized fiber Jackson/Hunstman411p. All of my tig is done with a Jackson/Huntsman 711p. The 711p is now discontinued but I have a good stash of 411p that I may trim down to 711ps.
no point ruining your lungs for the sake of bravado, and if you have a PAPR hanging off your back already it might as well be with an auto lense AFAIC.
I hate changing batteries in auto dark helmets with replaceable batteries. I have a really nice working and very comfortable auto dark hood from Victor. Problem with it is, the dam batteries (which are supposed to recharge from the solar panel) won't last a year.
I've used many different AD hoods over the years. The best hood that I always fall back to is my fibre metal flip window that has a optrel AD lens in it. No batteries to change. It always works when I want it to.
I, recently, hacked an AD HF auto-charge helmet for a friend. It had two large, non-replaceable button batteries that wouldn't retain a charge, so I removed them, and wired it up so the AAA's mount outside the AD unit for easy replacement.
no point ruining your lungs for the sake of bravado, and if you have a PAPR hanging off your back already it might as well be with an auto lense AFAIC.
Agree. We do production. When there is a air purity issue we use the P100 respirators. I do have an old Racal PAPR with a fixed gold lens. Have not used it in a decade and the old NiCad battery pack is probably toast. I should get it back in action.
Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR"
MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Agree. We do production. When there is a air purity issue we use the P100 respirators. I do have an old Racal PAPR with a fixed gold lens. Have not used it in a decade and the old NiCad battery pack is probably toast. I should get it back in action.
you should, one of the things I love about my speedglas is that you can always get parts for them, even on the old units, been running the same 2.7 AH battery for 6 years and it still gets me through an 8 hour day.
I recently had to get a spring for the darkening shield flip mechanism for my 7 year old 9100MP, it was in stock at the local supplier, even for the 20 year old unit I have you can still get parts, and they last a damn long time for such a complicated unit.
I use my Esab Sentinel PAPR for part time batch production TIG work and it's fantastic. No lifting the hood at all. Just workflow.
I have used various fixed shade hoods and yes they're OK, but it's the equivalent of using a slide rule vs a calculator. Calculator is faster and more efficient.
Since I'm working by the unit not the hour, I make more money if I get the job done faster.
Murphy's Golden Rule: Whoever has the gold, makes the rules.
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Originally Posted by 69sa200
someone is sure hungry 
... 
