Ironton Dry Cut Saw

[BD1]

Bonzoo does WD40 fling and cause a mess on the saw/workbench. I can't help but wonder if it would get into the bearings on the motor and cause shortened life cycle for the bearings.

Tony, NOT being a smart a$$ but WD 40 is sold as liquid too besides the spray. Harbor Freight sells it . http://www.harborfreight.com/wd-40-lubricant-62232.html Only: $22.99 That's a one gallon can.

[N2 Welding]

I knew that Bob. I had just forgot about that probably because I don't use it often enough to ever buy it. That may change or may stay the same. Thank you for reminding me

[MetalHeadJason]

Im not impressed with my ironton yet. Cuts are uglier than abrasive cuts minus the burrs. I wonder if its just the blade... maybe i should get a diablo or morse blade or something...

[pat h]

Yeah he still uses terms like heliarc and stuff. He hasnt done any metal work in years

Sounds like he done metal work before you were born don't make it right but you used to turn your blades around on circular saws and chop saws to cut aluminum and steel wasn't the best way but it was the only wway and it is heliarc from the get go don't knock your elders they used to weld without crutches

[MetalHeadJason]

Sounds like he done metal work before you were born don't make it right but you used to turn your blades around on circular saws and chop saws to cut aluminum and steel wasn't the best way but it was the only wway and it is heliarc from the get go don't knock your elders they used to weld without crutches

Im not knocking him. I think its badass he used to do that. He just hasnt done any work in ages. Heliarc is just a brand now. He didnt know what tig was haha he kept talking about metal inert gas too and i told him the proper term now is gmaw...

Im gonna put my ironton to work today. Hopefully i get better results this time...


DO u guys think its just the crappy blade that came with it?

[Smartdave]

Like I showed earlier in the thread, mine cut 1/4" thick steel like butter


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[MetalHeadJason]

Like I showed earlier in the thread, mine cut 1/4" thick steel like butter


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its not that it doesnt cut, it cuts fine but not as nice and smooth like a makita dry cut saw

[Bonzoo]

Bust out the wallet. NOTHING cuts like a Makita "dry cut" ? LC 1230......especially if there's a Tenryu stabilizer riding its shaft.
The Morse saw is close. I have one too. The 12 has less vibration. Simple engineering math there.
OK My Scotchman cold saw cuts "better" than either but I'm a welder, not a machine shop. I dont need tenths. 64ths are fine

[MetalHeadJason]

Bust out the wallet. NOTHING cuts like a Makita "dry cut" ? LC 1230......especially if there's a Tenryu stabilizer riding its shaft.
The Morse saw is close. I have one too. The 12 has less vibration. Simple engineering math there.
OK My Scotchman cold saw cuts "better" than either but I'm a welder, not a machine shop. I dont need tenths. 64ths are fine

I am a scotchman hah. But ill look into it

[Chad86tsi]

I have a Dewalt dry cut, the cut capabilities were impressive, but the quality a lot lower than desired. I found the stamped steel base was deflecting too much, and the fence didn't hold true. I tossed the base and mounted the saw to a 5/8" thick plate of steel, about 14" x 20" (A scrap I had), and welded a 3/8" x 4" angle back fence to the base. The added mass and thickness of the base, and rigidity of the welded fence vastly improved the cut quality, and that also increased the blade life by about 3x's. It quit tossing carbide tips.

[Bonzoo]

One other thang. Get the Morse V-block kit and make it fit. I use triple magnets milled into the back

[pat h]

Im not knocking him. I think its badass he used to do that. He just hasnt done any work in ages. Heliarc is just a brand now. He didnt know what tig was haha he kept talking about metal inert gas too and i told him the proper term now is gmaw...

Im gonna put my ironton to work today. Hopefully i get better results this time...


DO u guys think its just the crappy blade that came with it?

You just proved your ignorance it's gtaw, and a real dry cut saw works at 50 to 100 rpm

[MetalHeadJason]

man, im very unhappy with my ironton drycut saw, the fence doesnt hold true and gets off progressively as it is used... thumbs down. I'm gonna probably return it and get an evo or morse or maybe makita, only thing is that makita has a small blade....

[MetalHeadJason]

You just proved your ignorance it's gtaw, and a real dry cut saw works at 50 to 100 rpm

no metal inert gas is mig and the modern term is gmaw because most of the time active gasses are added...
also the lowest ive ever seen a dry cut saw at was 1300 rpm. ive heard of some bigger saws that go real slow but i think fluids are added thus making it a wet cut. i could be wrong on that but not on the other topic of mig.
what a dumbass.

[Fly]

I have a 14 Evolution dry cut saw. It is the most used saw in my shop. I use industrial saw blade wax on my aluminum cutting.

Fly

[N2 Welding]

Hey Bonzoo is there any chance you could show a pic or two of how you have the magnets set in the back side of those Morse V-Blocks ? I'd appreciate it kindly.

[redbeerd]

Just saw that this Ironton Dry Cut was on sale thru Northern Tool. $240 and free shipping. Enough of a discount to make me think about getting one (normally $300+$60 S+H, so they say).

Pun intended.

[mkennedy4797]

When I bought mine, I was also able to use a coupon a got from a google search that got it down to $215. Here's a $20 off link: https://www.retailmenot.com/showcoupon/8795796/


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[Deerehauler]

NAPA auto parts sells a wax stick used to lubricate door slides. I use this to lube the blade on my 8" Milwaukee metal cutting saw when cutting aluminum. It doesn't take a lot and I can easily tell when it is time to add more wax because the saw pushes a lot harder when the wax is gone. I cut 1/4" 3003 with a 5/8" round piece of 6061 welded to it, so 7/8" or so total thickness.

[redbeerd]

When I bought mine, I was also able to use a coupon a got from a google search that got it down to $215. Here's a $20 off link: https://www.retailmenot.com/showcoupon/8795796/

Thanks for the link mkennedy. I ended up ordering the saw last week, the coupon worked for $20 off, and just got it a couple days ago.

First impressions on quality and appearance were not extremely high. I'd give it 6/10, on first visual impression. The paint is nothing to brag about and there were some areas where the paint was already chipping off. The cast aluminum base is a bit rough in spots, but it'll do fine for fab work. I also didn't like the clamp handle knob that came with it, was a bit small, and the pivot-lock thingy was not that easy to operate. I say was, cuz I modded it, and a couple other things to make it a bit more user friendly.

I did make some cuts with it as well, and I was pretty impressed that part. Before I cut, I lined up the blade and fence with a combination square, which was pretty much lined up on the fence markings for 0 degrees.

Had some time yesterday and took the saw into the machine shop that I have access to at work, though don't technically machine for a living, just for fun.

I was able to knock out 3 little project/mods for the saw with material/parts that were in the scrap bin. I didn't make any fancy CAD drawings as so much as just used what I could find and made it work. Didn't realize how the tool holder lined up nicely with the aluminum runners on the base until the machinist pointed it out.

1. Tool holder made out of Delrin, drilled and milled to hold the 2 wrenches that come with the saw for blade changes and fence tightening. The block has a (blind) threaded hole on the bottom and is bolted on from under the base with a 5/16-18 threaded bolt.

2. Vise handle knob made out of aluminum. It's a bit longer so now I can easily get 2 fingers on it when clamping down on material. And it's smooth too, which makes it much easier to turn.

3. The pivot lock rod was not replaced, but I just pulled it out, removed (broke off) the plastic round disk and TIG brazed on some round tubing I had laying around at home. Then did more TIG brazing to add some texture bumps for a better grip. It's more like my old wood cutting miter saw pivot-lock now. I also had to go back to the shop today and use the lathe to cut the o-ring grooves deeper as the stock ones were quite shallow and my new o-rings were too big to fit inside the hole. Then I stuck some new o-rings on there.

With these 3 mods, the saw is much nicer, IMO. Pictures included.
Now I just need to make a dedicated table for it and start choppin, er uh, cutting.

[buck]

THATS SILVER SOLDERED carbide, if u run that blade backwards itll shed teeth fastern a redneck tellin dyke jokes in a lezzie bar, runnin backwards was ok in the days of single steel blades on old 7 1/4 plywood blades,, the blades basically just beat their way thru the thin aluminum, buck

[shedsouza]

Bought it from amazon for $270 and availed coupons for discount from https://www.dealmecoupon.com/amazon-promo-codes

[thegary]

For years carpenters would turn their skil saw blades backwards to cut aluminum siding. They probably sell special blades for it now. I worked at a place that did 90% of their stuff in aluminum back in the 70's and 80's . They would cut aluminum plate that was 1-1/2" thick all day long with a table saw. they always used wax for lube. The stuff they used came in a tube like buffing compound comes in. If they ran out of the tubes they would run to the store and get some paraffin wax to use. The carbide tipped blades would almost last for ever. They would also have paraffin blocks that they used with carbide burrs when carving aluminum.

[geezer]

Im not impressed with my ironton yet. Cuts are uglier than abrasive cuts minus the burrs. I wonder if its just the blade... maybe i should get a diablo or morse blade or something...

While at W.D. Quinn we discussed blades. They recommend tenryu blades from Japan but also said blades in general from Japan are good. I am not yet ready for another and at $113.00 a pop I will continue having mine sharpened.

[psacustomcreations]

I have used some of the Tenryu 8" blades for the Milwaukee metal circular saw. The blades did well but I never thought of sending those out for sharpening.
I do have a local guy who sharpened some 8" blades for $15 if I remember right. The 14" blades were $25. He did not do any repairs to the teeth.

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