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Thread: Dry cut bandsaw on Stainless?

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    Dry cut bandsaw on Stainless?

    I cut a lot of sch-10 1-1/2 stainless, I've used an abrassive chop saw as it's fast and cost per cut isn't terrible. I have never been happy with the cut cleanup (deburr), noise, mess, or accuracy. I've been eying horizontal saws for quite a while, and I need something I won't out grow. Right now an Ellis 1600 is on the top of the list, but I'm concerned I won't get good blade life out of it on stainless dry cut.

    I know most of the blade life issues with stainless have to do with cut surface overheating, so wet is obviously superior, but I don't want to stay only with wet options if I can get a decent cost per cut dry. I don't mind misting with a spray bottle, the added labor isn't an issue for the type of fab and cuts I'll be doing. I use WD-40 on my portaband when I cut aluminum solids and I've never had problems with the wheel tires or mess, so I'm good at tending to the need for light blade lube assistance.

    With my chop saw, I get about 100 cuts per blade, so about $0.10 per cut. I know running a dry blade on an ellis it won't last as long, what do you think I'll get out of it on a cost per cut basis? and/or overall satisfaction?

    Also if I go with an elils, what is an ideal blade for this material? It's 0.109" wall 316L, so not like cutting solids, getting close to tube behavior when cutting. I already know I'll be running fine tooth and cutting small chips with my feed rate. Also, has anyone ever used oils on an ellis?


    I also use ATF as a cutting lube, mostly when drilling. It's cheap and boils at a low temp, it does a very good job of pulling heat out of the cut face like water based does, and it is noticeably easier to clean up than motor oil. Because it's designed for use on gears, it also has a very good load properties as found in the cut face. When it smokes it's time to stop, so I find this a good indicator function too. Since I switched to ATF, I quit having bit wear with my Mag drill core bits. I've also found the portaband tires doesn't mind ATF, no slip or degradation over many years.
    Last edited by Chad86tsi; 04-10-2017 at 12:26 PM.

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    Re: Dry cut bandsaw on Stainless?

    You don't want any kind of oil on an Ellis. You will throw the blade. I have cut some structural shapes of stainless and it cut fine. A little wax type lube on the leading edge of the cut is OK. Run the saw at the slowest speed .

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    Re: Dry cut bandsaw on Stainless?

    I bought a 1600 Ellis specifically for a job last July cutting 1 1/2 x .120 square steel tube. I had about 2000 (2K) miter cuts on the blade that came on the saw (Amanda 5-7 vari tooth bi-metal) before I had a piece jump and kink the blade. It probably would have cut another 1000 before it was used up. I would expect about half that life in stainless if you don't hog with feed. A replacement Lenox blade is about $75.

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    Re: Dry cut bandsaw on Stainless?

    I hadn't considered wax, I think that would solve the matter quite nicely. I use that on my carbide burrs when I use my rotary file on this material, (it's called grinders grease) looks like just regular Parifin Wax. It doubles the life of the burr and it cuts better/faster. Thanks for the tip

    So with careful use, a thousand cuts at $75 works out to $0.075 per cut, I could live with that.

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    Re: Dry cut bandsaw on Stainless?

    they make different type blades for different materials. some research would probably help in choosing the best blade

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    Re: Dry cut bandsaw on Stainless?

    I use lennox diemaster 2 variable pitch blades for stuff like this- probably the 14-18 pitch.
    I have cut a lot of stainless (tons and tons, literally) with lennox bi metal blades, dry. Works good. The blades do wear out though, I buy em 3 at a time.

    I worked a job once where they had a german machine that is made to cut thin wall stainless steel tube- it was incredible. Every cut was perfect. This was for brewery work, where the install had to be absolutely on the money- rows of 7200 gallon tanks of beer, and if the welds werent perfect, they would be losing tens of thousands of dollars.
    If you really want the best tool- you need a Georg Fischer.


    but they aint no ten cents a cut- these things are pricey.

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    Re: Dry cut bandsaw on Stainless?

    Man, those are neat. I found some with built in beveling too. Too bad I don't just cut straight pipe, I need to cut the EL's too.

    Thanks for the tip on the suitability of the Lenox blades.

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    Re: Dry cut bandsaw on Stainless?

    I would call or email ELLIS direct. They will have the answers and want to have a happy customer.

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    Re: Dry cut bandsaw on Stainless?

    If a bandsaw doesn't have coolant it's a hobby machine (where speed isn't a factor). Cutting speed dry is only half of what you get with coolant. Coolant also has other advantages, like a cleaner cut surface and longer blade life.

    http://www.thefabricator.com/article...awingr-cool-it
    Last edited by Pete.S.; 04-12-2017 at 08:20 PM.

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    Re: Dry cut bandsaw on Stainless?

    Quote Originally Posted by Pete.S. View Post
    If a bandsaw doesn't have coolant it's a hobby machine (where speed isn't a factor). Cutting speed dry is only half of what you get with coolant. Coolant also has other advantages, like a cleaner cut surface and longer blade life.

    http://www.thefabricator.com/article...awingr-cool-it

    Sounds like you read a good article, but don't have actual experience. I have the Ellis saw and it is a damn sight better than many saws with coolant. I use it daily in my fab shop, I wouldn't consider that a hobby environment.

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    Re: Dry cut bandsaw on Stainless?

    Quote Originally Posted by walker View Post
    Sounds like you read a good article, but don't have actual experience. I have the Ellis saw and it is a damn sight better than many saws with coolant. I use it daily in my fab shop, I wouldn't consider that a hobby environment.
    No, I have plenty of experience. We have a professional band saw in our shop with flood coolant and so has any pro fab shop I ever been to. Since you can turn off the coolant on any saw that has coolant, it's very easy to cut dry if you want to. It's just so much slower so there is seldom a reason for it. Some materials like cast iron or brass don't need lubrication though.

    A saw blade is a cutting tool, like a drill bit or a tool bit on a lathe. Bi-metal blades have teeth made of high speed steel, the better ones using high cobalt content HSS like M42. Anybody who has ever used a drill press or a HSS tool on a lathe knows that cutting dry isn't the best option. You need lubrication first and cooling second. And that is what coolant on a band saw does. Simple physics.
    Last edited by Pete.S.; 04-15-2017 at 09:29 PM.

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    Re: Dry cut bandsaw on Stainless?

    My saw has coolant, I never ever use it. It just makes a mess.
    12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.
    I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829

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    Re: Dry cut bandsaw on Stainless?

    Quote Originally Posted by VPT View Post
    My saw has coolant, I never ever use it. It just makes a mess.
    I don't think it's needed. If in a situation where cutting stacks there may be a need, but then again a much coarser tpi blade should be used in that situation. On soft material it may also help, not really for cooling but to help prevent gumming. I would much rather deal with a dry cut than having to deal with that stinky slop.

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    Re: Dry cut bandsaw on Stainless?

    Quote Originally Posted by M J D View Post
    I would much rather deal with a dry cut than having to deal with that stinky slop.
    There are other type of coolants than what you're using.

    You should try one of the semi synthetic types. They're a mixture of mineral oil and water with chemical additives like rust inhibitors, cleaning agents and what not.
    Doesn't smell, doesn't go bad, doesn't leave any sticky residue on your work piece, doesn't mess up your machine, can be welded over. Provides a little more lubrication than the fully synthetic types.

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    Re: Dry cut bandsaw on Stainless?

    Don't need any of it. I use an Ellis saw

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    Re: Dry cut bandsaw on Stainless?

    And if you cut anything longer than 4" it drips all over the floor and whatnot.
    12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.
    I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829

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