stick vertical up and down amps

[WNY_TomB]

just asking if using 6011 and welding 1/8, 3/16, 1/4", 3/8" thick plate in tee joint fillet weld what amps do others use ?
for example
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1/4" plate fillet weld tee joint vertical down 5/32 6011 at 125 amps
1/4" plate fillet weld tee joint vertical up 1/8 6011 at 70 amps
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and also if welding with 7018
1/4" plate fillet weld vertical up 3/32 7018 at 70 amps
3/8" plate fillet weld vertical up 1/8 7018 at 100 amps
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not saying amps could not be higher or lower but what would you use to start welding 1/4 plate tee joint fillet weld at ??
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out of position vertical up and down ???
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i like having a chart to look at before welding so i can pick rod type, rod size and amps based on part thickness and position welding at and make good welds without a lot of adjusting amps. in theory should not have to adjust amps more than 5 or 10 amps at the most

[AFFENDE]

1/8 7018 uphill - 120-125 amps
3/32 7018 uphill - 90 amps

i dont run 6011 so i cant help you there.

[Slob]

1/8 7018 uphill - 120-125 amps
3/32 7018 uphill - 90 amps

i dont run 6011 so i cant help you there.

I don't use 6011 either but I'm right in the current ranges with your postings myself as accurate as the analog legends and meters are on my old Hobart machines.

[MinnesotaDave]

1/8 7018 uphill - 120-125 amps
3/32 7018 uphill - 90 amps

Same basically.
3/32" can be up to 100

[12V71]

I will add this about the downhill 6011, I do a lot of 1/4" wall irrigation pipe. normally I use 5P 6010 but occasionally I will use the white coated 6011C, I run about 155 amps with that stuff using 1/8" for a root and 5/32" for a filler pass. When I use 5P I normally run about 10 amps higher. For some reason the 6011C runs much smoother than the 5P. I think it's the arc stabilizers they add for low voltage buzzboxes.
BTW, I'm not a total hack.. Been using the stuff for 30 years.

[snoeproe]

Not all situations are the same. Amperage can vary depending on several factors. 230v single phase powered welder, 575v 3 phase powered welder, large diesel powered portable welder, it can all vary slightly. You should learn to see what your puddle (heat) is doing and learn to adjust accordingly. Not everyone welds at the same heat. The setting numbers aren't set in stone but you can use them as a start point.


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[WNY_TomB]

1/8 7018 uphill - 120-125 amps
3/32 7018 uphill - 90 amps

i dont run 6011 so i cant help you there.

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amps at what thickness of material being welded ?? .........1/4" plate welding a fillet tee joint even 3/32 rod at 90 amps vertical up is a bit much for single pass weld.. i am not talking a big wide weld pass on top of a weld already there. 3/16 thick material i would normally find even 70 amps is a bit much vertical up welding a tee joint fillet single pass weld
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3/8 plate even 110 amps was too much for single pass fillet weld of a tee joint without making a drippy looking weld. could be my machine just runs 10 amps hotter. my 110 is like 120 amps on another machine.
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point of me having a weld amps to metal thickness chart is to start welding within 5 or 10 amps making good looking welds without spending a lot of time adjusting the amp knob a lot.

[WNY_TomB]

I will add this about the downhill 6011, I do a lot of 1/4" wall irrigation pipe. normally I use 5P 6010 but occasionally I will use the white coated 6011C, I run about 155 amps with that stuff using 1/8" for a root and 5/32" for a filler pass. When I use 5P I normally run about 10 amps higher. For some reason the 6011C runs much smoother than the 5P. I think it's the arc stabilizers they add for low voltage buzzboxes.
BTW, I'm not a total hack.. Been using the stuff for 30 years.

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tee joint making a single pass fillet weld and factoring in plate thickness.
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1/4" plate tee joint single pass fillet weld vertical down i found 125 amps worked ok with 5/32 Hobart 6011 (from Tractor Supply) . i will test more amps but again single pass fillet weld if too much amps could have problems burning through or making a bad looking weld
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1/8 plate tee joint single pass fillet weld would need smaller rod at less amps for single pass weld
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i am making a chart to try to save time by starting welding at 5 or 10 amps where i need to be. my machine could just run 10 amps higher so my 125 could be 135 amps on a different machine.
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just asking what others use for welding tee joint fillets single pass welds at certain part thicknesses

[albrightree]

I like 6011, it has a lot of uses. It runs different on every machine I've ever used. Generally 75 to 90 amps on a 1/4" fillet. I usually tack first, grind back a little and adjust amps up or down as needed. 6011 works on pretty much every stick machine AC or DC, Low OCV machines, inverters etc... It doesn't mind a little paint or rust either. "New lessons in Arc Welding" and "Metals and how to weld them" by Lincoln are the best reference books for the info you are looking for , and are very reasonably priced. Having the book would make it a lot easier to write up a chart, in fact you might just wind up making copies of their charts to use in the shop.

[Fickster]

Are you using an engine drive or shop welder?? In my experience ive seen big difference in shop or engine driven wwlde. For an example my vantage 300 weld 1/8 6010 5 p plus like a dream down hill mode +2 arc 85 amps and 7018 Excalibur 1/8 CC mode arc -2 110 apa

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[AFFENDE]

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amps at what thickness of material being welded ?? .........1/4" plate welding a fillet tee joint even 3/32 rod at 90 amps vertical up is a bit much for single pass weld.. i am not talking a big wide weld pass on top of a weld already there. 3/16 thick material i would normally find even 70 amps is a bit much vertical up welding a tee joint fillet single pass weld
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3/8 plate even 110 amps was too much for single pass fillet weld of a tee joint without making a drippy looking weld. could be my machine just runs 10 amps hotter. my 110 is like 120 amps on another machine.
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point of me having a weld amps to metal thickness chart is to start welding within 5 or 10 amps making good looking welds without spending a lot of time adjusting the amp knob a lot.

I run those amps on anything 1/4" and thicker for vertical and overhead ... maybe slightly higher ... stringers.

amps dont mean much ... half the machines you use wont have gauges, the other half wont have accurately working gauges ... learn to do it by feel, not numbers.

with practice you will be able to guesstimate where just about any machine needs to be set by rod size and position.

I know i weld 1/8" 7018 right on the edge of it dripping out on me uphill which is (apparently) 125 amps ... most guys dont go by amperage, they go by feel. One box of rods may need fewer or more amps than the last box ... its definitely true for different brands.

Plate thickness really doesnt affect amperage that much between 1/4" and 3/4" ... thinner will require fewer amps, thicker will require more amps ... to a degree. There is still a minimum required amperage to keep any 1/8" 7018 electrode lit and there is a maximum allowable amperage to keep the puddle controllable ... and that number may very well change depending on too many factors to make a "chart" very useful.

a more useful chart would be rod size vs YOUR preference for amperage for that particular rod .... material thickness will play a smaller role than your preference.

[MinnesotaDave]

AFFENDE - Well said.

[WNY_TomB]

I run those amps on anything 1/4" and thicker for vertical and overhead ... maybe slightly higher ... stringers.

amps dont mean much ... half the machines you use wont have gauges, the other half wont have accurately working gauges ... learn to do it by feel, not numbers.

with practice you will be able to guesstimate where just about any machine needs to be set by rod size and position.

I know i weld 1/8" 7018 right on the edge of it dripping out on me uphill which is (apparently) 125 amps ... most guys dont go by amperage, they go by feel. One box of rods may need fewer or more amps than the last box ... its definitely true for different brands.

Plate thickness really doesnt affect amperage that much between 1/4" and 3/4" ... thinner will require fewer amps, thicker will require more amps ... to a degree. There is still a minimum required amperage to keep any 1/8" 7018 electrode lit and there is a maximum allowable amperage to keep the puddle controllable ... and that number may very well change depending on too many factors to make a "chart" very useful.

a more useful chart would be rod size vs YOUR preference for amperage for that particular rod .... material thickness will play a smaller role than your preference.

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i am interested in 1/8 to 1/4 thick plate amps tee joint single pass fillet going up or down. i have welded easily over 1000 tons of heavier stuff at former jobs. but for home welding 99% is 1/4 or thinner
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i am using a small inverter welder no arc force control but seems moderately high so thats why i say 70 amps can be 80 amps on a different machine. 1/4 plate tee joint using 3/32 7018 70 amps gave me a nice looking bead and 125 amps with 6011 5/32 rod going down i was able to make a nice weld without burning through a 1/16" or less gap in plates
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i got plenty of welding books and it does not help if book says use 3/16 rod at 200 amps with 1/4 plate. i cannot say i ever welded any where near settings listed in many books
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the other day i was welding 3/8 plate corner joint but from the outside and 1/8 7018 at 110 amps made a mess of the outside corner. outside corner, like making a box welding vertical up definitely need to reduce amps. quite a bit different than flat welding or even a tee joint welding inside corner. reason i say tee joint vertical up and down, single pass weld as its a moderate amp setting which would be a good starting point

[M J D]

Outside corner is going to be an issue anyway. Even on 3/8" thickness, a 3/32" electrode is a better choice on an outside corner.

[WNY_TomB]

Outside corner is going to be an issue anyway. Even on 3/8" thickness, a 3/32" electrode is a better choice on an outside corner.

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since i weld at home less frequently i want a amp chart to rod size and metal thickness to save time.
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i had a job once welding 4x4x1/4 square tubing and joints often had 1/8 to 3/16 gap. welding in place overhead and vertical up was way slow. even thinking about using too many amps and it drips down or burns through. no where near like flat welding close fitted parts in the shop.
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its always better to have a ideal (chart) what amps and rod size to use for various jobs in particular for out of position welding. books can be useless welding 1/4 plate using 7/32 rod at 275 amps. ive never used 7/32 rod ever in 40 years. never seen anybody else use 7/32 rod either

[drujinin]

For a guy who has welded over a "1000 tons", I guess I would assume that you would instinctively know where to set a machine? Especially one that you have been working with at home for a couple of years now.

For the record, I pretty much run the way Affende does; "I run those amps on anything 1/4" and thicker for vertical and overhead ... maybe slightly higher ... stringers.

amps dont mean much ... half the machines you use wont have gauges, the other half wont have accurately working gauges ... learn to do it by feel, not numbers.

with practice you will be able to guesstimate where just about any machine needs to be set by rod size and position."

[albrightree]

I keep a notebook with the settings of jobs that I do. Books are a good start when you learn to weld, but they are only a guide. How you weld has a great effect on the amperage/voltage.Travel speed, arc length,electrode, all have an effect. I have been stuck several times with tombstone welders that had bad switch contacts on the amperage control. I would just adapt to get the job done; use a different setting, larger electrode etc. I think the chart on your machine is the closest match for your. I think only you can make the chart your looking for. Pictures of the welds would help people give you some ideas on improvement. Just curious, what machine are you using to weld with, I think you said it was an inverter?

PS. I don't think my 250 amp stinger handle will open wide enough for a 7/32" rod, what book is that from? I'm sure that was from the back of the book in the appendix c...

[WNY_TomB]

I keep a notebook with the settings of jobs that I do. Books are a good start when you learn to weld, but they are only a guide. How you weld has a great effect on the amperage/voltage.Travel speed, arc length,electrode, all have an effect. I have been stuck several times with tombstone welders that had bad switch contacts on the amperage control. I would just adapt to get the job done; use a different setting, larger electrode etc. I think the chart on your machine is the closest match for your. I think only you can make the chart your looking for. Pictures of the welds would help people give you some ideas on improvement. Just curious, what machine are you using to weld with, I think you said it was an inverter?

PS. I don't think my 250 amp stinger handle will open wide enough for a 7/32" rod, what book is that from? I'm sure that was from the back of the book in the appendix c...

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my welding machine is working excellently. i can weld 1/2 - 1" and know if amps are high or low. my point is making a chart so i do not waste time making even 1" of weld at amps way high or low. yes i have done it that way for 4 decades but i prefer to do better.
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Lincoln welding amp chart flat position shows 7/32 rod at 275 amps for 3/16 weld which is normal for 1/4 plate. even flat position i would never use that many amps and that big of a rod. thus why i say chart is useless in average real world welding

[WNY_TomB]

chart i got so far shows 1/4" plate tee joint vertical up assuming less than 1/16 gap single pass weld 3/32 7018 at 75 amps
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obviously if i had 1/2" plate i would use bigger rod and more amps. and yes my machine can easily be 10 amps different than another welding machine. i am looking for average settings.
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1/8 to 1/4 thick is what i would be welding the most of so thats the info i am looking for

[whtbaron]

Are you using an engine drive or shop welder?? In my experience ive seen big difference in shop or engine driven wwlde. For an example my vantage 300 weld 1/8 6010 5 p plus like a dream down hill mode +2 arc 85 amps and 7018 Excalibur 1/8 CC mode arc -2 110 apa

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Interesting observation. Yesterday I had to weld a cultivator frame up in the field so I took my yard emergency generator (40/80 kw pto drive) and buzzbox (225 AC Forney) out to do the work. I know AC isn't the best choice for out of position to start with, but I was having a harder time getting a good weld than normal (I've been at it for more than 30 yrs too, but I'm still a hack...) . The generator source was definitely a different "feel" than shop power... voltages were probably slightly different.

[CEP]

i have welded easily over 1000 tons of heavier stuff at former jobs.

Just being a hobbyist, I’ve never even seen a ton of steel! Much less welded it! But here is how I keep track of my settings.

[WNY_TomB]

Just being a hobbyist, I’ve never even seen a ton of steel! Much less welded it! But here is how I keep track of my settings.

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i prefer a single piece of paper with amp chart near welding machine. look at thickness of material and position welding and set amps.
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sure i might still adjust 5 or 10 amps depending on fit up of joint to be welded. i just dont want to spend more time finding the correct amps that the actual welding job will take to weld up
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welding hand rail pipe like 1 or 1-1/4" pipe i would start at about 70 amps with 3/32 7018. no sense even starting to weld at 100 amps with 3/32 7018. i am saying welding in place so thats overhead, vertical up welding too. obviously thickness of part and joint fit up gap has a lot to do with welding amps to use

[Oscar]

I keep a notebook with the settings of jobs that I do. Books are a good start when you learn to weld, but they are only a guide. How you weld has a great effect on the amperage/voltage.Travel speed, arc length,electrode, all have an effect. I have been stuck several times with tombstone welders that had bad switch contacts on the amperage control. I would just adapt to get the job done; use a different setting, larger electrode etc. I think the chart on your machine is the closest match for your. I think only you can make the chart your looking for. Pictures of the welds would help people give you some ideas on improvement. Just curious, what machine are you using to weld with, I think you said it was an inverter?

PS. I don't think my 250 amp stinger handle will open wide enough for a 7/32" rod, what book is that from? I'm sure that was from the back of the book in the appendix c...

This is his stick welder.

https://www.harborfreight.com/weldin...not%20provided

[WNY_TomB]

This is his stick welder.

https://www.harborfreight.com/weldin...not%20provided

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HF Tig Stick welder is one of many machines i have. it works very good. its easily portable, ive never had the overheat light come on so duty cycle is enough. used to be 130 amps max but last few years newer model is 145 amps max stick welding. when i saw it changed to 145 amp i bought it immediately
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not the best welder for 6010 but it easily welds 6011, 6013, 7018. perhaps 5 amps on the hot side from arc force at medium setting. arc force not adjustable. 6010 wont run above medium amp general recommended amps for example 1/8 6010 normally 70-130 amps but this inverter wont run it above 100 amps and only with short arc length. runs 6011 normally
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ive had it 1.5 years now welding usually every weekend. best $200 i ever spent. price has actually gone down. the one i had included a Tig torch which actually was pretty good and probably worth $100. alone. possibly they sell without tig torch for $180. ??
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if HF ever sold one thats made for 6010 or had 6010 plug and had 200 amp capacity i would buy it immediately.

[albrightree]

That's a really nice chart. You could print and laminate it for your shop. You can modify with a sharpie when you do your welding, and find a better setting. Somebody spent some time on this chart, its well thought out. I asked about the welder to see if you just had a knob, or sliding transformer , or taps. Some machines its hard to get the same setting all the time. I have a dayton ac/dc buzzbox with a infinite arm adjustment that always runs really low/cold. Did you find that chart on Pinterest? I've seen some cheat sheets for other things there.

good luck.