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Thread: Questions about stick welding

  1. #26
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    Re: Questions about stick welding

    So first off I would like to thank yall for your help on here. I woulda been struggling way worse doing this stuff completely on my own.

    I also just got a call from some guy who said he could get me on a live repair for 5 days. not as a welder but as something else like equipment or trucking wise. then some other guy I talked to might be going back to work and in need of a helper. Its a gamble leaving the junkyard but I don't know I might have found my way into the pipeline. Maybe not as a welder yet, but I do have my CDL as well. I like scrap metal but it seems like theres way more money in the pipelining gig. Not sure if I can take a gamble that big though and just up and leave my current job for 5 days of work with no guarantee I'll be on something after that.

    I also might have found an 84 SA200 the guy wants $3000 for. In my opinion thats way more money than I would ever consider dropping on anything else that old, but I have heard really good things about those welders and see some in way worse condition go for way more than that. I'll be looking at it soon. Are they really that great at welding 6010/8010 down hill? I mean I could get a new machine for that much and it would be perfectly capable of the farm type welds I'm used to doing. But on the other hand If it helps gets me on the line as a welder someday that $3000 will be a drop in the bucket.

  2. #27
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    Re: Questions about stick welding

    Quote Originally Posted by CAVEMANN View Post
    You also need to see if your machine will run 6010 as any pipe test may require 6010, not sure on that, I would find out from your buddy how they test and get proficient with every process you can. Have you thought about getting on as a helper or some other position?
    I have. just gotta do some more talking.

  3. #28
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    Re: Questions about stick welding

    Sa200 can handle the 6010 and 8010 very nice.
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  4. #29
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    Re: Questions about stick welding

    Quote Originally Posted by Scrapman Industries View Post
    Are they really that great at welding 6010/8010 down hill?
    Quote Originally Posted by irish View Post
    Sa200 can handle the 6010 and 8010 very nice.
    Well I hope so. That's what they were built for.
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  5. #30
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    Re: Questions about stick welding

    So I ended up getting the SA200 that I looked at. Nothing wrong with it thus far except that the guy did a service on it for me and didn't finish putting the air filter on. I filled it with oil and stuck it on myself. It was pretty easy. I made sure to clean it with Gasoline first. My first beads on it were on some really rusty steel that the guy had just so I knew it welded. I honestly thought that because of how thick the rust was (we didn't even hit it with a wire brush or nothing) that it wasn't gonna work. But sure enough It welded like there wasn't even any rust there. Took it home and started an awning build. In 2nd gear/30 with 3/32 7018 on 1" square tube The first two welds were horrible, It stuck all the time, couldn't keep the arc lit, so I turned it up 5. It still stuck and was horrible to weld with. Then I remembered I completely forgot to get rid of the thin layer of oil that was on the brand new steel. After wire wheeling the 3-4 inch right next to the joint and trying again I found this thing to weld really nice. Probably the best welds I've ever made. The appearance of the final welds is completely different than 7018 on the stickmate. With the stickmate the beads were more convex and had the appearance of a stickweld. with the lincoln After I cleaned the steel, the welds are looking more flat and kinda like a shaky tig weld. I had my doubts about getting a machine older than I am for more than What I could buy a new champion Elite for but after using It even just on the little bit that I welded with it I can clearly see why these things are so popular still. This thing has around 5000 hours (slightly less) but It still seems like it could last another 10k at least.

    my next project after this awning is gonna be to make a trailer for this thing out of this square tube that came in as junk. That way I can have all my welding stuff in one location instead of spread out all over the place. It'll make mobile work a lot easier too since all I'd have to do is hook up and go.
    Last edited by Scrapman Industries; 07-26-2018 at 11:31 PM.

  6. #31
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    Re: Questions about stick welding

    In my experience, drop a gear and use the upper range of the fine for 7018 will work even better for 3/32"
    I'm guessing you have a similar plate to this one?

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    Here is how lincoln explains it:


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    Last edited by MinnesotaDave; 07-26-2018 at 11:39 PM.
    Dave J.

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  7. #32
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    Re: Questions about stick welding

    yes. only black. As this thing is so old though I'm not sure if the coils are still aluminum or if they died and someone put in the copper ones. I read that part in your picture there about the open current voltage and how to control the "dig" I guess you learn something new everyday. I'm also wondering if that would work the same way on the buzzbox's and stickmates when on Ac. I only ever used the low setting But I feel like there is an overlap there between high and low on the stickmate.

  8. #33
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    Re: Questions about stick welding

    Quote Originally Posted by Scrapman Industries View Post
    yes. only black. As this thing is so old though I'm not sure if the coils are still aluminum or if they died and someone put in the copper ones. I read that part in your picture there about the open current voltage and how to control the "dig" I guess you learn something new everyday. I'm also wondering if that would work the same way on the buzzbox's and stickmates when on Ac. I only ever used the low setting But I feel like there is an overlap there between high and low on the stickmate.
    There is a similarity on the buzz boxes. The AC high tap has a lower open circuit voltage.

    As a result, rods will behave differently in the overlap. I like higher voltage so I always used the low tap unless I ran out of amps.
    Dave J.

    Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

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  9. #34
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    Re: Questions about stick welding

    thanks. Question what do you guys run your sa200's at when your using say 3/32 7018 vertical up on 1/8" wall 1" square tube? the joints are a 45 degree angle butted up against each other with no gap and very little bevel, with one piece running vertical the other horizontal so its like vertical up but horizontal as well. I tried 1st gear/95 which was working while flat, but vertical it stuck like crazy and had almost no penetration. the arc wouldn't stay lit at all and puddled up real high. I tried 1/8" 6011 vertical down at the same settings and had the same problems. So I turned up to 2nd gear/20 and It didn't get much better. then when up 5 on the fine and it did get a bit easier. I think I made it up to 2nd gear/30 when it started to rain and it was getting easier to use. I was gonna try 2nd gear/50 with 3/32 7018 when I get the chance to try again but I was just wondering what y'all use on these machines. I've never welded with one before so its kinda weird getting everything dialed in. everything else I used I knew the amps. this thing its like a range and a guess, unless you feel like breaking out the multi meter or fetching the calculator.

  10. #35
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    Re: Questions about stick welding

    Check your OCV with the engine at high idle, it should be at 90V … Myself I liked 91-92V buts that's me. You also want to check all your brushes and commutators for wear. The commutators should be a nice even brown color without pitting where the brushes run. Make sure all the brushes are free moving by gently tugging their tails.

    My old SA200s would run 3/32" 7018 in second and 40ish on the fine doing vertical up work.

  11. #36
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    Re: Questions about stick welding

    Quote Originally Posted by Scrapman Industries View Post
    I've never welded with one before so its kinda weird getting everything dialed in. everything else I used I knew the amps. this thing its like a range and a guess, unless you feel like breaking out the multi meter or fetching the calculator.
    If you look at 2nd gear, 130-80 is a 50 amp range. So roughly 5-ish amps per setting on the fine dial.
    Last edited by MinnesotaDave; 07-27-2018 at 10:49 PM.
    Dave J.

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    Airco 300 - Syncro 350
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    Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.

  12. #37
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    Re: Questions about stick welding

    Thanks. I normally run 3/32 7018 around 100 amps on the stickmate in all positions and can do just fine. any lower and I tend to have trouble. Which kinda makes sense now that dave broke down the amps on the fine dial. I think I was running around 85-90 amps when I was trying it with the lincoln. When I had it in first gear I believe I was around 87ish amps with no "dig". I believe the low end Hobart says these rods will run is 70 or 80 amps. that would explain why I was sticking so bad. I'll try 2nd gear and around 40-50 on the fine if I get the chance tomorrow and see how it goes. I'll also take a better look at the generator portion of this thing. I went over the engine real good and it seems fine for now. very Minimal oil leaks and pretty decent fuel system. but I guess if I got time I'll pull the cover off the generator portion and see how she looks.

    I also found some roughly 6" pipe at the junkyard today and snatched it up. I think its got a 1/4 wall or something close to that. Its a bit rusty and has old cracked and drying paint on it. I believe it was used for some sort of driveway pole like the yellow ones they put up at the drive thru's to stop the drunks and horrible drivers from taking out the building. Once I get done with this awning build I'm gonna figure out a way to get this pipe cut up real nice and practice on that. I got 84lbs of it or around 10' to practice with. There was some 4" stuff with machined bevels and landings on both ends that I believe came from some sort of pipeline at one point but I couldn't get my hands on that. I'm hoping this line thats going in down the road aways is looking for helpers if I stop in and ask. I also might check out the 798 here soon.

  13. #38
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    Re: Questions about stick welding

    Also if your running on the low end of these things will you hear the engine rev up when you strike the arc? I know on my rigid as soon as I strike arc it revs up alot. On the wildcat It seems like 3/32" electrodes make it run at 1/4 throttle. 1/8" about half. The lincoln didn't sound any louder at all though. But it could just be because Its on the other side of the house from where I'm actually doing the welding. I did hear it kick up with 5/32" 8010 when we were testing it.

  14. #39
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    Re: Questions about stick welding

    The engine should always idle down when not welding, then go to welding RPM when arc is struck.

    Big rods will make it bark more
    Dave J.

    Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

    Airco 300 - Syncro 350
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  15. #40
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    Re: Questions about stick welding

    Quote Originally Posted by Scrapman Industries View Post
    Also if your running on the low end of these things will you hear the engine rev up when you strike the arc? I know on my rigid as soon as I strike arc it revs up alot. On the wildcat It seems like 3/32" electrodes make it run at 1/4 throttle. 1/8" about half. The lincoln didn't sound any louder at all though. But it could just be because Its on the other side of the house from where I'm actually doing the welding. I did hear it kick up with 5/32" 8010 when we were testing it.
    An SA200 should rev to 1550? rpms when you strike an arc with any size rod.

  16. #41
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    Re: Questions about stick welding

    Quote Originally Posted by MinnesotaDave View Post
    The engine should always idle down when not welding, then go to welding RPM when arc is struck.

    Big rods will make it bark more
    Yup, dave is right, once you stick a 3/16 rod on pipe " braappppppp" a good grunt sound comes out. Love that sound out of red or black face 200
    MM215, soon to be ex miller
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