Amazon Cutmaster 60i

[ronsii]

No it was melted off, you can't break off copper like that it bends. Try it with one of yours.

Well..... if you're using the chinese import knockoffs of dubious alloys then it might break with mere finger pressure...

[mechanic416]

Well..... if you're using the chinese import knockoffs of dubious alloys then it might break with mere finger pressure...

Yea, your right there, you never know what it may be made of.

[soutthpaw]

Just picked it up. Repaired under warranty. Said the pilot IBGT was bad.


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[Louie1961]

Question for anyone: What's the story with the 60iX model...seems like only Baker's Gas carries it. Is there a plan to release it to wider distribution like Amazon, welding supplies from IOC, Cyberweld, etc?

[soutthpaw]

Oh tested it and no fault codes and it seemed to cut better without fouling the nozzle/tip. Infancy failure new thinks. Hopefully it will be good to go now.


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[Brand X]

The China made 42 had a bad batch of boards that effected quite a few of the Green ones.. Seemed like close to the same issue. No pilot arc...Yep got lucky and got one.. All my 60i have been flawless so far.. You were fighting codes from the beginning with that unit..

[soutthpaw]

Well I've used it a few times since the repair and all seems to be working as it should without any error codes. Much improved cut quality too

[N2 Welding]

Nice so now that it works as it should what is your impression of the machine. Worth the entry free you paid?

[soutthpaw]

Biggest F'ing POS I ever bought. getting Error code 04, 05 with my gouging gun, 12, 14, 16 done all new consumables. This thing is going back to LWS tomorrow to be sent in again. Anyone want to buy this with probably less than 2 hours cutting time. Gawd I miss my old ESAB. thing was bullet proof compared to this POS

[winniweld]

So my 60i just popped. I pulled the trigger and got no arc, then a loud pop and that smell ......... error code E002. I called my LWS and they said that it has to go back to original vendor so I called Amazon and some guy I could barely understand allegedly has a replacement coming to me. I then got an email confirming a replacement was coming but that they couldn’t say when as they needed to get on in from thermal arc. I can fell an run around coming........

[N2 Welding]

So my 60i just popped. I pulled the trigger and got no arc, then a loud pop and that smell ......... error code E002. I called my LWS and they said that it has to go back to original vendor so I called Amazon and some guy I could barely understand allegedly has a replacement coming to me. I then got an email confirming a replacement was coming but that they couldn’t say when as they needed to get on in from thermal arc. I can fell an run around coming........

Dont jump the gun. Call ESAB for customer service support.

[soutthpaw]

So my 60i just popped. I pulled the trigger and got no arc, then a loud pop and that smell ......... error code E002. I called my LWS and they said that it has to go back to original vendor so I called Amazon and some guy I could barely understand allegedly has a replacement coming to me. I then got an email confirming a replacement was coming but that they couldn’t say when as they needed to get on in from thermal arc. I can fell an run around coming........

If it's under warranty that complete BS. Call ESAB. I bought mine on Amazon and had it repaired 2x at local LWS under warranty.

[winniweld]

So I took your advise and called Esab customer service,took it to my LWS who sent it to their repair center. Turns out it was a blown inverter board, repaired under warranty and back to me in 2 weeks working fine now.

I’m wondering why ? It’s only 2 years old and it’s been used a fair amount but not excessively and not abused. Always used OEM consumables, anyone else have a similar problem?

[N2 Welding]

Was doing some cutting recently and trying to figure out the best way to calculate the straight edge for standoff cutting. I made a cut then measured the distance from the cut to the straight edge which gives me roughly about 3/16” of distance from my cutline to the straight edge for drag cutting with the stand off shield. Do this sound about right?

putting this hear so I can print it out.

https://www.rapidwelding.com/files/S...g%20Manual.pdf

[whtbaron]

Hmmm.... not sure, but now you have me wondering how many cheap Chinese torches that cut off shield will fit...

[Rondo]

Hmmm.... not sure, but now you have me wondering how many cheap Chinese torches that cut off shield will fit...

None of the Chinese torches will accept the TD parts but the TD torch has some china consumables options.

[Rondo]

You are using the Drag cap right? You don't have to under 60 amps but it works a lot better than trying to run the tip on the work or the nozzle rim on a straight edge.

[N2 Welding]

Yes the cap that has a cross section in it for sparks to shoot out sideways in 4 directions seen in image below.

[Rondo]

Yes the cap that has a cross section in it for sparks to shoot out sideways in 4 directions seen in image below.

Yeah. Standoff cutting is kind of a humbling experience. I try to drag with these caps as much as possible. Good luck !

[N2 Welding]

Yeah. Standoff cutting is kind of a humbling experience. I try to drag with these caps as much as possible. Good luck !

My cuts are usually very clean imo. My biggest concern is getting the straight edge set with the correct amount of standoff so my cut line will give me exact dimensional pieces. I tried to find the amount of standoff or distance from cut line to straight edge in the manuals but came up empty so figured making a test cut with a straight edge then measuring the distance from the cut edge to the straight edge is about as good as it’ll get for now.

Is there literature for this purpose that I have not read?

Oh wait, perhaps my explanation is confusing what I am trying to say. I definitely am dragging my cuts with this set up mentioned in the above pic.

[whtbaron]

I get what you're saying, the cup is placing the cut in the radius of the cup away from the straight edge. I just don't have a better answer for you than what you are doing by measuring a test cut. I suspect the literature isn't there because of the variables... after market cups v.s. manufacturer, solid area of a cup v.s. slotted area and angle of torch. To keep it consistent maybe you need something like a track holder to keep the angles from changing as you move.

[N2 Welding]

Let’s not over complicate this lol. I was just curious if anyone with experiance using this set up knows the distance if all variables are correct. Factory consumables, flat 90 degree drag angle, air psi set at 115 to 120 at regulator machine set at 60 amps with 60 amp stand off nozzle used with drag cup. Perhaps a little more practice on my part and a note pad to document my settings and findings for future set up. I tend to forget these things pretty easy as I don’t use these tools very often, so when I do I have to read up on and learn it all over again. Just looking for a cheat code so I can get on with the day and get r done each and every time w/o a lot of relearning.

[M J D]

If I'm understanding correctly you are looking for the actual cut kerf line from a straitedge. I would just take a small piece of 16 gauge or so, butt the straitedge to the edge of material and make a short cut. Take that piece, nip out on notch on the part away from the straitedge about half the length of the cut. Overall the piece would be small maybe 1" or 1-1)2" x 2" or so. This piece would then be set against or layout line where you want the cut. The notched out section allows for the kerf width, depending if it's an inside or outside cut. I would paint it I bright color so it doesn't get tossed and use it for layout instead of measuring the , for example, 3/16" or whatever standoff is required.

[Rondo]

I use a Tangent straight and circle cutting kit. You still need an edge to run the wheels on though. It tends to give less jerk that a drag cut.

[N2 Welding]

Had to cut 5 bolts from a '95 ford bronco rear bumper to bracket yesterday. Decided plasma gouging was the way to go. At first the machine did not want to work. Had to remove the nozzle start cartridge etc to get it to work then it stopped again giving the same error code ending in 12. Pulled the gun off of the line and noticed the middle pin hole of the 5 pins was sticking up or out closer to the edge of the connector than the other 4 pin holes. Can't remember if it was the gun side or hose side. Put it back together and was able to blast through the bolts pretty efforlessly at 60amp. Gouging rocks as does the machine when it works like it should. Connections are very finiky.