My brother-in-law made a lamp in H.S metal shop and used colored plexiglass or lexan sheeting cut to fit, I think both can be heat formed, and a few dabs of silicone.
Have a problem that stumping me. I'm making lamp covers for my patio light set. I cut 18 gauge sheet metal to size, then plasma cut a pattern into the metal and rolled the pieces into cans (see attached pics). I want to put colored glass in the center of the pattern. I was thinking I'd use these glass beads and fasten them to the inside of the can somehow. Once they are done, I'll fasten them over the lamps on a string of heavy duty patio lights - I think they'll throw a nice pattern of color, light and shadow on the patio.
Has anyone bonded glass to metal before - I was thinking of using ClearWeld, anybody know of a better way to do it?
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Makita LC1230
My brother-in-law made a lamp in H.S metal shop and used colored plexiglass or lexan sheeting cut to fit, I think both can be heat formed, and a few dabs of silicone.
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Look up "came glasswork".
2 part epoxy is what you want to use.
Use toothpick to apply around the holes and set stones in place and they will stay put for a while.
Goop and E6000 are options they would work good right out of the tube also. Good adhesion qualities.
Another alternative if the adhesive does not need to be clear
Dow U- 428 primerless windshield adhesive
Just don't get it on your hands... black in color and will take at least 2 weeks to wear off.
for your ap would need to apply with a toothpick
Although not spec-ed for it
made gas proof fuel tank gasket for my Promac 70 chainsaw - no leaks in 2 years
glued a shattered Jeep grand cherokee front bumper back together from the back side
molded a fiberglass air dam to an AMX holding strong also reinforced the back of the cracked dash on same car using this urethane adhesive.
Sticks to most anything, holds strong, stands up to vibration. and for the amount in a tube is a bargain. It does require a Heavy duty caulk gun to dispense it.
oh yeah another use is installing windshields.
Last edited by 455dan; 10-13-2018 at 10:49 PM.
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That's what I would use. If they're going to be out in the sun a lot, you probably want epoxy with a UV blocker, or it will yellow and eventually disintegrate. I think System Three has an epoxy with UV blocker, as well as some other manufacturers. You might also be able to use polyester resin (no UV blocker needed, although you'll want to add wax to the resin so the skin exposed to air isn't sticky).
The OP didn’t mention whether these lamp shades would be heated and cooled during normal use of the lamps. The reason I ask, is that glass and metals have rather distinctive and diverse thermal coefficients. Glass artists refer to this as COE (coefficient of expansion) or as I prefer to think “Cause Of Explosion”.
The best option is. An elastic adhesive such as Dans windshield bond or a silicone adhesive. That should allow the materials to expand and contract without de-bonding.
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Great feedback - thanks so much! I'll do some research on the options. The lamps will be LED so minimal heating from the light source.
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Lincoln 210MP
Makita LC1230
Have you considered using SS wire, criss-crossed behind the beads?
Look for an adhesive called Iron Grip. Your local home improvement stores should carry it.
It is a silicone product that we use to attach wood and metal to solid surface countertops. It cures fast and stays flexible. It is way stronger than standard silicone.
My wife suggested using wire too. I'm going to pick a couple of these methods and do a little experimenting! Thanks so much.
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Lincoln 210MP
Makita LC1230
Familiar with that product too and Steve is correct that is another great choice. Similar to silicone but adhesion is 6 times standard silicone and it absolutely stays put and doesn't run or even move from the way you place it. Weird though as cleanup is no worse than regular silicone maybe easier somehow. In any case it would hold them great and not show too much either. Home Depot has it.
This will flex with expansion and chilling and stay together
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