I like mine on top of the box but i have a crane to lift it there. What if you slide the welder towards the back and put it against the front wall in front of the welder?
Mike
check out junk yards for a crank up spare tire carrier from a pick up truck , and mount it under the tail end ,unless the fuel tank is there
Miller 211
Hypertherm PM 45
1961 Lincoln Idealarc 250
HTP 221
True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
spare tire mount on the front bumper, like these:
https://goo.gl/images/5jGnxy
https://goo.gl/images/pdMMRj
https://goo.gl/images/oZZty7
Some blue machines
Some red machines
lots of heavy steel
I'm really tempted just to build a Ladder rack on the left side of the truck kind of like my awesome sketch below but I'm not sure if I'm going to regret not having a full ladder rack
I wouldn't want to block the radiator especially a van with a 7.3
Miller 211
Hypertherm PM 45
1961 Lincoln Idealarc 250
HTP 221
True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Thing I've noticed about ladder racks over time is every one of them gets higher above the ground by about 1/32" per week. Older I get the more inconvenient racks are.
If I was putting that truck together I'd put a protector rail across the top of the front box I could strap ladders to, and a vertical square socket on the back bumper to hold a T shaped rear rack, probably made with square sign post so it could telescope to need, and store in a sidebox when not needed. Long as the front of the ladder isn't more than 12 feet above ground you're good to go and loading is a lot easier.
Spare tire can ride inside the box 90% of the time secured to a sidebox and not be in your way. Other 10% you can sit it on the back bumper and strap it in place.
It depends on how much you plan on using the rack. Do you want to load it up or use it every once in a while.
How much do you plan to get at 1 time without a trailer?
How inconvenient is it as a full rack?
You can always make a full rack later or at the same time with removable cross members
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I used the rack a lot on my previous truck, I ended up putting a lot of things up there because I didn't have any bed space, now I have a lot more bedspace so I won't need it for big things, just long stock. Anything too big or bulky to lift into the truck will get put in a trailer.
If I can make some sort of system for securing sheet goods in the bed then I won't need to put them on a full rack
E track about a foot up on the inside of the driver side boxes handles the bottom of the sheets, Might need a post or 2 depending how high the boxes are or a rail along the top of the boxes to secure to.
Now why would you do that, you just disabled your Anti-Rust System? I saw a service truck for a site contractor with the fuel nozzle when not in use stuck in a tube that ended directly over the driveshaft, the couple of drops after every use would coat the underside of the body from the back of cab to over the diff- I'm not saying it is legal, only effective.
Thunderbolt AC/DC
330AB/P + Bernard cooler
Syncrowave 250
Oxy/Ace torch
Dayton 160 MIG
6CF pot with 185 compressor
Too much big equipment
Even more small tools
Are you putting a crane system in. I find I could use one to do this and that a crane all the time. I have been looking around for one but they are made of gold I guess. Going to build a simple one this winter along with many other projects. I have most of the parts I need for it, might as well.
www.tjsperformance.com
Dynasty 300 DX
HTP 240
HTP Microcut 380
Hyperthem 85
JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)
Bpt. Mill/DRO
4' x 8' CNC Plasma Table
Instagram: tjsperformance
YT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
Just a suggestion but the fuel filter cap looks like it has not been off in a really long time!
You might want to put a new filter in there, SOON!
That's funny, it does stop everything from rusting doesn't it.
I was thinking about it but I don't have the money for one right now, maybe it would come in handy
Yeah I changed the fuel filter when I was in there fixing the leak
Only use oem filters or else you can have problems too. The filter pushes down on a valve to allow fuel into the bowl. If the cap and/or filter aren't right fuel doesn't flow.
The heater in the bowl is another potential issue if it grounds out.
I pull the bowls and rebuild them on the bench.
12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.
Tube channel: https://youtube.com/@VPTfab
Another potential fuel leak is at the fuel line clamp on the passenger side fuel line right by the turbo. The clamp rubs on the line and can rub a hole in it. I slice and wrap a rubber hose around the line and then clamp around that. On the very very left side of this pic you can see the rubber hose around the hard line, the clamp is right there, just not visible.
12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.
Tube channel: https://youtube.com/@VPTfab
Impressive unique build !! Cooooool too. Thanx for posting...
A copy of the Maxi-Lift-M50. Kind of. Not as fancy but close. Search that exact spelling on youtube. I have a cylinder and a pump set up ready to go. Going to use an axle stub to manually turn it, not the fancy hydraulics. The extension cylinder will come later. Again that will be manual with pins and maybe a cheap elect winch as well. I have material as well and I am sure you have some thick post material you can use in stock for all the gate work you do.
www.tjsperformance.com
Dynasty 300 DX
HTP 240
HTP Microcut 380
Hyperthem 85
JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)
Bpt. Mill/DRO
4' x 8' CNC Plasma Table
Instagram: tjsperformance
YT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
Last edited by MetalMan23; 11-27-2018 at 12:29 PM.