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Thread: 1/16" stick rods

  1. #1
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    1/16" stick rods

    So I was just messing around with these hobart 1/16" 6011's to see if they might be able to substitute a mig welder in certain places/circumstances. I tried running them on first gear and 0-5 on my sa200. that was an epic fail. way too cold. so I turned it up a bit and they seem to run nice around 15-25 on the fine control. the problem is I seem to burn through everything I tried welding with them (14 or 16 gauge tool box I believe). Anyone else try using these in a real life application? like what would you even be welding with them and how thin of a material? would 1/16 inch 6011 or 7018 be good for making an xray quality groove weld on 1/8" plate? would 3/32" 7018s be too big for that if you didn't have a backer and copper bar or tube clamped down somewhere?

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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    6011s are meant to dig into the metal, therefore not really suited for thin metal. More for rusty or unclean metal. I think you can use them for brazing rods, not real sure I don't use the 1/16" 6011s, only 3/32" and 1/8". For the thinnest metal you can possible weld with stick you need 1/16" 6013. Even thinner run it on DCEN. I've used these on sheet metal, but not sure exactly what gauge it was.

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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    For thin plate, try 5/64 7014, DCEN. Welds like using 3/32 but runs at a much lower amperage. Makes a clean smooth bead with excellent penetration.

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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    I've tried those 1/16" E6011s, but they didn't run like 6011's at all. Ran just like 6013s. Did not "dig" at all, just a nice smooth bead with 6013-like slag covering. Same machine that I had used to run 3/32 & 1/8" 6011s previously. No arc force controls so it wasn't that either. Might have just been my luck though.
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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    Quote Originally Posted by Scrapman Industries View Post
    So I was just messing around with these hobart 1/16" 6011's t
    0-5 on my sa200. that was an epic fail. way too cold. so I turned it up a bit and they seem to run nice around 15-25 on the fine control. the problem is I seem to burn through everything
    I tried welding with them (14 or 16 gauge tool box I believe). Anyone else try using these in a real life application?
    didn't have a backer and copper bar or tube clamped down somewhere?
    c'mon, jack, get real w/ the times. appreciate ur humor, as u seem 2 no the talk. maybe in another night i cud get in the mode, but its only a thurs

  6. #6
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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    Quote Originally Posted by Scrapman Industries View Post
    So I was just messing around with these hobart 1/16" 6011's to see if they might be able to substitute a mig welder in certain places/circumstances. I tried running them on first gear and 0-5 on my sa200. that was an epic fail. way too cold. so I turned it up a bit and they seem to run nice around 15-25 on the fine control. the problem is I seem to burn through everything I tried welding with them (14 or 16 gauge tool box I believe). Anyone else try using these in a real life application? like what would you even be welding with them and how thin of a material? would 1/16 inch 6011 or 7018 be good for making an xray quality groove weld on 1/8" plate? would 3/32" 7018s be too big for that if you didn't have a backer and copper bar or tube clamped down somewhere?
    .
    welding 14-16ga general rules
    .
    1) tack weld often
    2) aim for zero gap in joint
    3) weld inch or 2 and stop to let cool off and if needed beat joint tight no gap
    4) welding fast vertical down often used
    .
    actually 14ga most use 3/32 rod. usually people have trouble cause they dont know how to do sheet metal welding. yes sheet metal welding requires skill and patience.

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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    Quote Originally Posted by dee_veloper View Post
    for thin plate, try 5/64 7014, dcen. Welds like using 3/32 but runs at a much lower amperage. Makes a clean smooth bead with excellent penetration.
    bingo

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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    many use 6011 cause it is a quick freeze rod. either whip or just break arc and let cool as needed. most know better to weld a short distance and stop and let part cool off
    .
    filling a gap out of position like overhead welding of sheetmetal can be difficult. best not to have a joint gap with thin metal
    .
    6011 usually can weld vertical down which is often easier than vertical up with thin metal

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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    I've done a little thin work with 3/32" 6011.

    Worked really good as overlapping tack-tack-tack.

    Cleaned with grinder, then vertical down to tie together.

    For flat work, overlapping tack-tack-tack and done.

    I don't really care for 1/16" rods.

    Mig would have been better, but I was in a field with the Bobcat 225n.
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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    Jody covered this in one of his old videos. Polarity is going to be key (DCEN not DCEP). He welds some steel that is 44 thousandths thick (19 gauge-ish?) as well as some 70 thousandths exhaust tubing. Jump ahead to 6:12 in the video for 6013 and 12:45 for 6011

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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    1/16 6013 is good for the guy with only a buzz box. No mig/tig .
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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    .........
    Last edited by jpump5; 12-21-2018 at 10:43 PM.

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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    I've used 1/16" 7018 on a lot of 16ga square tubing. It's not too bad but you have to be fast.
    Used 5/64" 7014 and 6013 rods on 16ga as well.
    DCEN or DCEP didn't make much difference in my opinion.

    Problem comes when you blow a hole somewhere and have to repair it. Having a piece of tigrod or something can be helpful if you add it while welding. It will cool down the puddle. Can also be used if you have gaps.

    Outside corner download, like was done in the video above, is the absolutely easiest to do cause the heat will spread out and the puddle is traveling towards cold steel and not hot, like uphill.

    If you don't have a mig at hand, 1/16" will help you do 16ga and in some cases even thinner. I guess that is why it exists.
    Last edited by Pete.S.; 12-21-2018 at 10:47 PM.

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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    Fast is when you try the aluminum arc rods.

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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    Quote Originally Posted by kbeitz View Post
    Fast is when you try the aluminum arc rods.
    You ain't a kidding there I think I went through three packs of that stuff before I got a halfway decent(holding) weld... and it still looked like I found it in a pigeon house.

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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    Don, DDA-52 put me onto the EN welding 3/32 6011 sheet metal 20 ga. Can use 1/8 just as well. Turns out with zero distortion,and works with dingbat machines to.Although we where using my C-300 Powerwave, and Kevin's dynasty 350 just for fun. Thermal-arc 95s works just about as well..
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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    I use 3/32 6011 and 7018 frequently on 14g and 16g. Joint confuguration is important. 16g to 16g tee is easy to weld with 3/32. I am usually not butt welding. 16 to 16 butt is difficult with 3/32.

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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    Thank you to the guy who posted that video. I totally see what I was doing wrong with my 6013 and why I absolutely hate it. Apparently I've been running way too cold for that rod. I also see what I was doing wrong with the tiny rods. Apparently my tool box is more like 20 gauge and I was trying to whip it. as soon as I got the metal to stick to my trailer and the tool box it just blew through the box. gonna mess around with them some more when I get the time. I know mig is more useful and more practical, but I like stick welding better and want to get as skilled as I can with it. Plus the big lincoln is already on a trailer. if I gotta use mig when I'm on a job I gotta drag out the genny and hope my back don't blow out trying to get the 400lbs beast onto my truck. If its just a simple farm weld I'd rather just hook up the stinger and turn a knob down.

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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    Quote Originally Posted by 123weld View Post
    c'mon, jack, get real w/ the times. appreciate ur humor, as u seem 2 no the talk. maybe in another night i cud get in the mode, but its only a thurs
    hey man You laugh but I'm serious. I was out there in the rain trying to weld a toolbox onto my homemade welding rig. I ended up having to bolt and rivet it on but I'm like determined to learn these tiny rods. I was out there today welding 1/8" grooves with 3/32 6011 and 7018 cutting em up and pounding em with a vice and sledge hammer to see how they hold up. the 6011 cracked bad, but the 7018 is like unbreakable. I think I was whipping too much with the 6011 though. gonna try again sometime. I think my 7018 samples would pass xray. I had to use an aluminum backer as a heat sink though.

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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    Quote Originally Posted by kbeitz View Post
    Fast is when you try the aluminum arc rods.
    Yeah I keep some of those on the truck for aluminum repairs that pop up, but man it's hard to see through all the slag



    For years before I had a decent welder for feild work I used the harbor freight "90" amp stick welder with their 1/16th 7014 rods, I was welding mostly fencing and railings together, it worked well. Now I keep some 1/16th 6011 on the truck in case I have to weld super thin wall pipe or something
    Last edited by MetalMan23; 12-22-2018 at 10:09 PM.

  21. #21
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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    Quote Originally Posted by MetalMan23 View Post
    Yeah I keep some of those on the truck for aluminum repairs that pop up, but man it's hard to see through all the slag



    For years before I had a decent welder for feild work I used the harbor freight "90" amp stick welder with their 1/16th 7014 rods, I was welding mostly fencing and railings together, it worked well. Now I keep some 1/16th 6011 on the truck in case I have to weld super thin wall pipe or something
    Thanks man. that was what I was looking for. theres alot of railing work around here.

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    Re: 1/16" stick rods


    Scrapman Industries


    1/16" anything requires a superior hand - small is not easier - small is more
    difficult . . .

    It is: hard to see, hard to maintain arc gap/distance, and often melts at the
    stinger - because, only really expensive machines have discrete adjustment.

    Tech Tip: Cut 1/4+- off the top of the rod - beat/strip flux from the top for
    a solid contact in the stinger.

    A good portion of set-ups, I stick the entire rod straight out the top of the
    stinger, and bend-down a little over 90°.

    This allows you to rotate your wrist, and maintain proper 'rod touch' angle
    welding something irregular/cylindrical . . .

    Hope this helps . . .


    Opus




    .
    Last edited by OPUS FERRO; 12-28-2018 at 01:08 AM. Reason: . . . # text . . .

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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    I remember welding a wrought iron fence - some 1600 welds attaching 1/2" square tubing to 1" square cross supports. I tried it with 1/16 6011 and 7018, and they were so wiggly and bouncy, it was hopeless. I ended up just using NR-211. Worked fine.

    So just what kind of welding is 1/16" 6011 good for?
    Last edited by Ruark; 12-28-2018 at 04:12 PM.
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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruark View Post
    I remember welding a wrought iron fence - some 1600 welds attaching 1/2" square tubing to 1" square cross supports. I tried it with 1/16 6011 and 7018, and they were so wiggly and bouncy, it was hopeless. I ended up just using NR-211. Worked fine.

    So just what kind of welding is 1/16" 6011 good for?
    Well then that is the answer. A stinger accessory that supports the rod end so it doesn't wiggle, and "folds up" back to the stinger with some hand pressure as you're welding away!
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    Re: 1/16" stick rods

    I’ve actually had good luck running 1/16 6011 on DCEN. I know- they’re not designed to run that polarity. But it does allow you to run a little more amperage and prevents blow through.... as long as you don’t dwell to long.

    Continuous beads are probably out of the question unless you ‘back-step’ or something similar.

    Yes this my first post- long time lurker.

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