Steel Strapping Equipment - recommendations?

[djd775]

I’m finding myself shipping more bundles of parts that often end up on flat bed trucks or trailers for trucking. I’ve looked around online and see lots of options and most of them are pretty expensive. I’m prepared to spend a bit if necessary, but I’d like to spend wisely and end up with a good quality tool that works well and will last.

My applications are generally bundles or skids/pallets of parts - weldments, sheared/formed parts, HSS, channel,etc. Seems like around 3/4 to 1” steel banding would suit me well. What can anyone recommend for equipment? Thanks in advance.


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[thegary]

I’m finding myself shipping more bundles of parts that often end up on flat bed trucks or trailers for trucking. I’ve looked around online and see lots of options and most of them are pretty expensive. I’m prepared to spend a bit if necessary, but I’d like to spend wisely and end up with a good quality tool that works well and will last.

My applications are generally bundles or skids/pallets of parts - weldments, sheared/formed parts, HSS, channel,etc. Seems like around 3/4 to 1” steel banding would suit me well. What can anyone recommend for equipment? Thanks in advance.


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3/4 banding should be plenty unless you band a lot of very heavy object . The only time I see 1" used is on parts that weigh a few thousand pounds.

[ronsii]

As much as I hate buying from uline... they always have what we need in strapping tools and coils always bought the 1/2 inch strap from them for parts on pallets but we weren't shipping super heavy steel flats...

https://www.uline.com/Grp_59/Steel-Strapping

[scsmith42]

We ship lumber all over the US. For years I used a manual tensioning machine coupled with a manual clamping tool. A couple of years ago I bought a used Signode AL-12 automatic banner and we love it.

It will tension, install the band clamp, clamp it and then cut the banding all in one too.

Not sure of the weights that you’re dealing with but 3/4” banding is pretty strong.

[bent]

There are open and closed clips. An open clip can be used anywhere you can overlap the bands. A closed clip must be slid on the banding first, then the banding is looped around the object. The dead end is inserted into the clip and bent over. The tensioner pushes the banding clip to tighten the band, and the tensioner breaks off the excess band. There must be a solid surface under the tensioner to keep the dead end from straightening. The tensioner for the open clip holds both ends of the strap and tensions it.

Most tensioners will do multiple sizes of banding, but the clips and crimpers are unique to a specific width.

[FlaJoe]

You didn't say where you re but there's an industrial surplus store in Sanford, Fla that used to sell that stuff pretty cheap. I expect that you can find used crimpers, etc in just about any descent size city. Look on Craigslist for any businesses that are going out of business.

[Jax]

Manual tensioner and manual clamp with open clips that are put on after band is tight work well for me. I need a spool for band,it's inconvenient pulling band off without one.

[djd775]

Thanks for all the suggestions, I’m looking into options based on your comments. Anyone have experience with sealless banding tools?


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[bent]

Manual tensioner and manual clamp with open clips that are put on after band is tight work well for me. I need a spool for band,it's inconvenient pulling band off without one.

I forgot that part. You absolutely need a cart for the banding roll.

[ronsii]

Cart is pretty simple to make if you can weld... ��