ReplyYou welded over the max load stamping. How can I know I'm ok not ripping it off by towing that fat lady up a big hill, backwards?
Lol
WeldingWeb Journeyman
Apparently Toyota doesn't put tow hooks on the 3rd gens. people sell some for like $100. but I made mine from some hook thats been sitting in my tool box for the last 10 years. Its now powder coated pink. I guess if you got a new tacoma you could take my Idea.
the part with the 2 holes is stock. the hook welded to it is not.
WeldingWeb Craftsman
You welded over the max load stamping. How can I know I'm ok not ripping it off by towing that fat lady up a big hill, backwards?
Lol
T man.
15 + years working for myself, and by golly, I still don't know what I want to do when I grow up.
WeldingWeb Journeyman
well since I welded it wouldn't that change the weight rating any way? damn, now I gotta go take it to an engineer to get the load rating figured out. damn it.Originally Posted by T man
WeldingWeb Craftsman
Lol.
Mounted yet? Put the retainer springy thing on it?
Photo installed?
T man.
15 + years working for myself, and by golly, I still don't know what I want to do when I grow up.
WeldingWeb Tradesman
if it breaks that's just another reason to weld.
Master Welder
I like the idea.
Just don’t like the choice of hook.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Miller 211
Hypertherm PM 45
1961 Lincoln Idealarc 250
HTP 221
True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
WeldingWeb Craftsman
It's really cool when you rear end another car, and you find out the hook wrapped around a structural support , preventing quick disassembly of the two vehicles
T man.
15 + years working for myself, and by golly, I still don't know what I want to do when I grow up.
Master Welder
If you're gonna drive a toyota, ya better have the tow hooks or be ready to walk outta the woods.
"The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
WeldingWeb Journeyman
I powder coated it pink and mounted it yes. Had to cut out a section of the stupid plastic thing in front of it but yes its all together now. as for the choice of hook, it coulda been different. I just had that one sitting around in my tool box for the last 10 years or so. finally decided to do something with it. And to the person dissing toyota, the 98 I had was way better off-road than this 3rd gen. the 3rd gen gets better gas milage and does better on road, but the 98 was unstoppable in the snow. this new one as soon as you loose traction your done. the limited slip and traction control kick in and you get no power to the ground. your drive shaft spins but not the axle. Can't even power slide in this one. I had the 98 trailblazing down an unplowed township road when there was 30" of snow on the ground because I plowed for the state and had to go to work. Got to work and had to drive through the snow bank the plows made turning in to get to the parking lot. the 98 did it like a champ. this new one struggles in an inch of snow. 2.7L's in both of em.
Banned
you can turn off that traction control on the dash, but everytime you start the truck its back on,,I hate that thing..
WeldingWeb Journeyman
Yeah I turn it off too. but the clutch in the rear end is always there. once you start spinning the tires the clutch starts slipping and you ain't got power. then with the abs you tap the brakes and it starts sensing your brakes are slipping so now you have no power and the brakes don't work. theres been so many times I've just been sliding down the road unable to do anything because of all the new technology in that thing. The old one didn't have all that and was so much easier to drive in bad conditions. I don't understand how any of this new stuff is doing anything. maybe if you didn't know how to drive, it might limit your stupid behavior, but you are no longer in control of the truck once all that crap kicks in. I hate it.
Banned
even in 4 wheel drive mode? I never experienced that loss of power when in 4 x 4..
WeldingWeb Journeyman
yeah. Its got that limited slip diff. in it. I don't if its because my tires suck, but as soon as they start slipping that limited slip kicks in and instead of being able to power through stuff it just spins the clutch in the rear.
WeldingWeb Journeyman
you can hear it too. its not like its just in my head. like the drive shaft is going but not the axles. I only have the 2.7L sr5. I know the fancy ones had some other fancy traction control do-dad in them called crawl control so I don't know if that is any different.
Banned
I have bf goodrich all terrains on my trucks, when traction control kicks in it must also limit engine rpm, it just feels like the truck bogs down, but I dont hear the drive shaft spinning,...thats usually when in 2 wheel drive, as said before when in 4 wheel drive the traction control doesnt seem to kick in or the tires have that much grip they havent slipped yet, ill have to find a smooth icy area to test that out..this is on a 2012 tundra, I also have a 2017 tundra and so far it follows what the 2012 does....
WeldingWeb Craftsman
Who's dissing Toyota? Weird thing to say.
I have a 94 SR5 extended cab 5 spd that I bought new. No power, but best little truck ever, IMO.
Wife has an 03 Sequoia. Good, but a rust bucket. Toyota skimped on metal protection, and they've paid for it thousands of times over again. This is what happens when bean counters control the manufacturing process.
Anytime I'm at Toyota for parts, there's no less than a dozen "full frame" replacements taking place.
T man.
15 + years working for myself, and by golly, I still don't know what I want to do when I grow up.
Master Welder
i think toyota makes a great product. i believe my 14 year old toyota sienna gets better mileage than my 2016 4 door wrangler.
i.u.o.e. # 15
queens, ny and sunny fla
Banned
I think toyota smartened up, as my 2012 has some surface rust but thats about all, my 03 silverado rotted away , every part of it, rotors, chassis, drive line, brackets, transfer case pan and much more...this summer im going to pressure wash and use rust converter on the toyota frame just as an added precaution and then paint with oil based rustoleum...
WeldingWeb Journeyman
Yeah my 98 taco rusted out as well. I was gonna fix it but it was so bad and rusted I decided to just torch the thing in half. almost caught the house on fire because I forgot to pull the fuel tank out. oh well. But now I'm working on repairing this 04 f150 to get it good enough for on the farm use. It was gonna be a road worthy repair until I opened it up with the plasma and found that half the inside wall of the frame is completely gone. from the looks of it, the frame rotted away from the inside out. as I was beating on it with the hammer to get my plates to bend all the rust just started flaking off. the original frame was 1/8" thick. now its like 20 gauge or less all along the inside wall. Looking at my 02 f150 they changed frames in either 03 or 04. the boxes just rust out and you can't even tell. Looking at this 17 taco the frames the same way it looks like. I'm gonna be spraying mine with diesel every year now. no way did I pay 30k for a 10 year truck plan. and we can blame it on the salt brine all we want but even PennDots f350's and 550's don't rust this quick. they still got the channel frames.
WeldingWeb Journeyman
t mann them old ones are the best. no power but as long as you keep oil in them and keep the frame clean you can't stop em. I'd even be hauling cars with mine.
Master Welder
Nobody gonna say a thing about this. Well, I guess I'm gonna. And everybody gonna call me a hater. So be it.
That weld looks like it was done with an underpowered wire welder. Don't deny it. I can see the wire stub, and I can see the cold welds.
PLEASE, and I mean it in a nice way...…….get yerself a cheap stick welder offa Craigslist, or something like it. You're pushing your little machine, and it ain't safe.
Welding forged stuff ain't a big deal, but ya gotta consider the mass you're working with. That hook is a pretty big heat sink. You need some balz to weld it.
WeldingWeb Craftsman
Dana spicer actually crapped out on the rustproofing. Toyota spec'ed it and they flat out didn't apply any, they were successfully sued by toyota and covered the frame recall costs. Unfortunately the recalls were only for a certain (cold climate) portion of the country. I have a 2004 tacoma with 80,000 miles bought new in 2006 (cheapest new vehicle they had on the lot, 11k woo! try getting a truck for that nowadays) and it wasn't on the recall bc of a southern california life. The frame/body are still rust magnets wherever paint is chipped off, and though it hasn't gone structural you can tell the rust really penetrates with each surface rusting layer, pisses me off. I've since done the ATF diesel bath for inside the frame rails so hopefully it'll make it through another 20 years with no real rust problems. I think the stubbing was from the back side (in relation to camera angle) where he ran out of material and kept traveling forward, the wire poked through when he ran out of material and stubbed to the corner (wire is balled on the tip where it was arcing and then poked through). It looks like it's fully welded with some multi passes, lots of preheat I bet, and still does look a little cold (underpowered) to me as well. That being said I've seen far worse take some serious abuse, so with some common sense i'm sure it'll be fine
WeldingWeb Tradesman
Im not sure your differential works how you think it does.
If you have Toyota's Auto LSD, that is not even a true LSD. All it does is use traction control to try to simulate a limited slip differential but is truly an open diff. It applies the brakes to a slipping wheel and cuts engine power if one of the two wheels slips. Auto LSD is still on even with traction control off on Toyotas. Not a good way to do it if you want a vehicle that actually handles well off road in my opinion.
A true limited slip differential has a clutch pack between the to sides of the axle, not on the drive shaft. I don't know of any reason you would ever put a clutch between the drive shaft and the axle, unless its a transaxle of course. In a true LSD, when one axle slips the clutch kicks in and "locks" the two halves of the axle together. If your drive shaft is spinning and neither of the wheels are spinning, that is a problem.
Multimatic 200
Ellis 1800
Haberle S225 9" cold saw
MM 300; Spoolmate 30A w/ WC-24
TB 302G
Dynasty 280 DX Tigrunner
Master Welder
I had the posi trac/limited slip on older trucks. Was good on dry ground, and low speed one-side-spinning situations. But it could kill you at highway speeds on glare ice. Dam thing would ALWAYS put power to both wheels, and cause a fishtail if you weren't careful. Standard differential will allow the wheel with no traction to slip, and dissipate the torque. Sometimes you want those wheels to slip a little.
My old Powerwagon had the best of both worlds. NP203 differential transfer case, and regular axle differentials. That old gal was set up for runnin' at speed on slick stuff. You could lock the transfer case differential out on slow speed slippery conditions. The pundits, and naysayers, complained about the full time fwd at the time, and they quit producing it. Then the auto manufacturers picked it up, and it sold like hotcakes
Master Welder
Plus, and it's a MONDO PLUS...…...the interaxle differential split the torque between both axles. Made for one heavy pullin' beast without going thru drivetrains, or rear ends.
Posting Permissions
